Ok so here's pretty much the cliff notes version:

-D15b6 HF motor into a DX Chassis
-PM8 ECU
-Used the DX harness along with the Si harness for the injector plugs and all

followed the http://www.fourthgenhatch.com Step by Step, the domain must've expired but the site is still being hosted here :http://www.50mod.com/fourthgenhatch/mpfi.html

-did everything as it was EXACTLY mentioned, sodered-heat shrunk every connection

So here's the pictures if you see anything wrong ..feel free to let me know.

Plug A(A3-Injector2)
(A7-Injector4)


Plug B

Plug C



Injector1(Solid Yellow Line from DX Harness)


Injector2(A3)


Injector3(Solid Red wire from DX Harness)


Injector 4(A7)


Resistor( All the rest of the wires from the injector+ the 2 Yellow-Black wires from the DX Harness)


Wires from the DX harness



-So far i've checked for Spark, held a spark plug wires near a ground, i'm getting spark

-I believe i don't have any fuel thought, i can't hear my fuel pump priming-upon my research it could be my Main Relay
-Swapped the main realy twice, neither of them worked


Main relay Problem occured
-Wierd Noises started emmiting using either of the main relay's, here's the video..mainly the sound of what i hear when i turn the key over

-I researched this and found i may have a ground problem
-- Checked all ground- Valve Cover
- Battery to Chassis to transfer case
- Thermostat housing has also been grounded


ALSO
-Throwing only one cell code #16
-Checked my manual told me it was "INJECTORS"
--what does this mean? is there no current to the injectors? are the injectors bad?


Hopefully i provided enough information regarding my problem, any help advice would be appreciated. thanks.



Modified by pr3d at 12:31 AM 9/9/2006

 

hmm i do notice one thing im not sure if its the same for that ecu or not but it should be

injector 1 to a1
injector 2 to a3
injector 3 to a5
injector 4 to a7

That leaves you with 4 red wires coming from each of the injectors, all you do is wire these 4 red to any of the 4 red on the resistor box..

For the yellow/black wire coming from the resistor box your gonna wanna cut the 2 injector plugs off your dx harness, take the yellow/black from each of them and solder them together branching the two wires from each injector together.. After that take the 2 wires and hook them up to the yellow coming from the resistor box.

And there is some wiring to be done at your ecu and dizzy but that might just be for a b16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm i do notice one thing im not sure if its the same for that ecu or not but it should be

injector 1 to a1
injector 2 to a3
injector 3 to a5
injector 4 to a7

That leaves you with 4 red wires coming from each of the injectors, all you do is wire these 4 red to any of the 4 red on the resistor box..

For the yellow/black wire coming from the resistor box your gonna wanna cut the 2 injector plugs off your dx harness, take the yellow/black from each of them and solder them together branching the two wires from each injector together.. After that take the 2 wires and hook them up to the yellow coming from the resistor box.

And there is some wiring to be done at your ecu and dizzy but that might just be for a b16</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea well injector 1 and 3 are already intertwined in the stock DX harness so i left those alone, but yes i did that the A3 and the A7 ran it to injector 2 and 4 respectively, i did take the rest of the 4 wires and ran them all to the resistor box and the 5th wires to the resistor box was the yellow-black wire-which i conjoined and ran a single lead into the remaining resistor receptor

-The Dizzy was to be left alone and just the 2 wires C1-C2 were added, my dizzy is functioning properly as it delivers spark and i'm not throwing any dizzy codes.

 

My old car!!!

I'd double check teh wiring like I said... then check to make sure the injectors are good.

Your getting spark, thats a good accomplishment. That **** always gives me trouble.

If wired correctly the only thing it could be is the main relay. If the main relay isn't priming the fuel, then I'm almost positive it will throw an injector code. Thats as long as the injectors are good and so is the wiring.

I dont have the computer manual for the crx here, but Ill take a look when I get home to find out what causes a main relay problem.

Other than that, my only idea is that there might be a slight difference between the Hf and the dx/si's, which might be causing the main relay/injectors to be acting up.

In these cases, its always something stupid or overlooked. I worked on that shell for a week straight trying to figure out the mpfi swap. Little did I know that I had it right the first 5 times , it was just a bad ecu.

Good luck, I will try to look into it more for ya.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr3d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-The Dizzy was to be left alone and just the 2 wires C1-C2 were added, my dizzy is functioning properly as it delivers spark and i'm not throwing any dizzy codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I may be reading this wrong, but you're using the DX or HF/Si dist?

 

I'm sure hes using the hf dizzy that came with the complete motor.

I sold him the shell and gave him a dx harness ready for mpfi swap, no motor or dizzy or anything.

 

Actually im not sure if it was in your original post or not but what exactly problems are you having with the car, does it not run or?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually im not sure if it was in your original post or not but what exactly problems are you having with the car, does it not run or?</TD></TR></TABLE>

car's turning over..the starter is trying to start, but i have no fuel delivery, the fuel pump is NOT priming at "on" position, the Main relay is good and i tried two different relays


but for the earlier post..i'm using the Si dizzy

 

take a multimeter, lift up the back seat and test for power going to your fuel pump

 

Code 16 will trip for anything wrong with your injectors. Including the wiring, main relay, injectors themselves, ignition switch, and all the wiring that connects it. My money is on the wiring, but a dead fuel pump is also possible.

If you're looking for some good troubleshooting, go to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner. Go to parts and servicing, then go to workshop manuals. If you go in the CRX one, you can find the troubleshooting flowcharts.

 

Bump for the most comprehensive "my car won't start" thread

 

When I did my ZC swap. (Exact same process...) I kept getting a code 16 initially. It turns out that one of the connections at the ECU plug was loose. Did you de-pin some spare wqires and use those? It looks like you just kinda shoved the wire in, if so there;s your problem.

Look in my project thread (sig) and it shows how I de-pinned the ECU plugs and re-did it corectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a multimeter, lift up the back seat and test for power going to your fuel pump </TD></TR></TABLE>

and thats the yellow-black wire going to the rear rite?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paopao &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Code 16 will trip for anything wrong with your injectors. Including the wiring, main relay, injectors themselves, ignition switch, and all the wiring that connects it. My money is on the wiring, but a dead fuel pump is also possible.

If you're looking for some good troubleshooting, go to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner. Go to parts and servicing, then go to workshop manuals. If you go in the CRX one, you can find the troubleshooting flowcharts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm..ok i'll have to through that flowchart-and there is a flow chart regarding the main relay also i think in that manual, i'll follow that too..

but has anyone heard that main relay sound? it sounds so different-i've never heard of it before, what could be causing that sound?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I did my ZC swap. (Exact same process...) I kept getting a code 16 initially. It turns out that one of the connections at the ECU plug was loose. Did you de-pin some spare wqires and use those? It looks like you just kinda shoved the wire in, if so there;s your problem.

Look in my project thread (sig) and it shows how I de-pinned the ECU plugs and re-did it corectly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea all those ecu pins have been properly inserted and have good conductivity to the ECU- This car had previously been MPFI'd once before so the same setup has worked in the same car once before and the earlier owner of this chassis posted just a few posts ago- so i believe those connections are in there good and fully recieving the signal from the ECU.

 

Yea when I had it, I had no problems with the mpfi wiring or fuel pump or main relay. That can only leave it to bad grounds, or bad wiring. I'd do a full evaluation of the whole car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HBK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea when I had it, I had no problems with the mpfi wiring or fuel pump or main relay. That can only leave it to bad grounds, or bad wiring. I'd do a full evaluation of the whole car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm ok...i'll have to double check all grounds once more..and i guess i'll redo the wiring again this weekend when i get a chance and break from first week of school heh..so i guess starting over might be the only option left now...

 

BEFORE you rip everything apart, check every other possible thing. I'd take the injectors out, clean them, or even change them out. I'd double check the DX-&gt;HF process. I'd swap resistor boxes etc etc. Then if all that **** don't work, double check the wiring. Its hard to understand your description on the wiring that you did.

 

i feel your pain! i am having somewhat the same probelm.. but my car just wont turn over.. i gave up like 3 months ago and the car has just been sitting since.. good luck!

 

From my experiences when the main relay sounds like that it's because of a lack of power to the car (e.g. dead battery, missing ground, etc.) Since you said it sounds like your starter wants to start have you tried brushing the ground on the starter and reconnecting it? PIYAH!!!

 

im too lazy to read but when i looked at your injector wiring you have them all in the wrong places brown wire=1,red wire=2,blue wire =3 and yellow wire =4. now the brown and yellow wire are already in the dx harness and brown is number 1 and yellow is #4 switch that and make sure your getting spark and i bet it will work.

 

yea I talked to him on the phone and he didnt sound too sure on the order of the injector wires. Get that **** fixed. it goes from #1 from the right to #4 to the left.

As long as ur battery is good, it comes down to the injectors. If your wiring is wacky then your main relay is going to make a noise and not do its job.

im too drunk to figure out the injector wire color order

 

shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit, if you did the wiring correctly, just switch the injector plugs if you have the extra wire to play with. Other wise get that **** wired up correctly cause I just re-read and yea, your injector plugs are in the wrong order.

 

do you have the ground from the engine harness connected at the thermostat housing?

 

Once you've got everything running good put on some si intake manifold/tb and you will feel the difference. I have a 88 civic dx and convert it to mpfi but with si manifold and now the car is running strong with the 90 integra ls ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PeterPaul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once you've got everything running good put on some si intake manifold/tb and you will feel the difference. I have a 88 civic dx and convert it to mpfi but with si manifold and now the car is running strong with the 90 integra ls ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hes building it with a stock HF for daily commute