Hello-

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Just recently I installed an ASR brace, and bought the 22mm sway bar that came with it. I also got some function7 LCAs.

I am using the endlinks that came with the ASR kit, does it matter which orientation they sit? Two possibilities shown below:



Also, I noticed I would need to add some washers with the endlink to get it perpendicular to the LCA. Does this look okay, and how should I figure out how many washers to add?



Thanks!!!!

Seb


Modified by B18EG6 at 6:13 PM 10/28/2006


Modified by B18EG6 at 6:14 PM 10/28/2006

 

Well I'm not exactly sure how you lined everything up, but I'd like to make sure you didn't do it with the suspension at full droop (wheels off the ground). Make sure that the end-link is perpendicular to the LCA only when the car is on the ground & the suspension is at final ride height. If that doesn't give you enough room to work, put your jack-stands under the LCAs to compress the suspension while the car is lifted. The reason for this is because the torque arms on the sway-bar are quite short, so the end-links angle can change quite a bit with only minimal suspension movement...

 

As for the installation orientation, I'd probably reverse them from how you have them shown in your pic. Your chances of the bar binding on the end-link are much greater if the range of motion is too severe...

 

Thanks for the reply, you always get me out of some confusion!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the installation orientation, I'd probably reverse them from how you have them shown in your pic. Your chances of the bar binding on the end-link are much greater if the range of motion is too severe... </TD></TR></TABLE>

In the first picture I have them modeled both orientations. Which should I use, the one thats actually on the car or the one in my hand? different orientation for each side?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I'm not exactly sure how you lined everything up, but I'd like to make sure you didn't do it with the suspension at full droop (wheels off the ground). Make sure that the end-link is perpendicular to the LCA only when the car is on the ground & the suspension is at final ride height. If that doesn't give you enough room to work, put your jack-stands under the LCAs to compress the suspension while the car is lifted. The reason for this is because the torque arms on the sway-bar are quite short, so the end-links angle can change quite a bit with only minimal suspension movement...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the pictures are of the car lifted, wheels off. Should I just kinda do trial and errors to figure ot how many washers to use? IS the washer 'trick' acceptable? Should I try and get a fully threaded bolt and use nuts to adjust the angle instead?

I am just a little confused on how to get it at the right angle, while its off the ground, to make sure its level when its on the ground. Know what I mean?

 

this is how you want the endlinks.. the one with your thumb.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is how you want the endlinks.. the one with your thumb. </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply, you always get me out of some confusion!

Yes the pictures are of the car lifted, wheels off. Should I just kinda do trial and errors to figure ot how many washers to use? IS the washer 'trick' acceptable? Should I try and get a fully threaded bolt and use nuts to adjust the angle instead?

I am just a little confused on how to get it at the right angle, while its off the ground, to make sure its level when its on the ground. Know what I mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would just get the suspension loaded & then align the end-link with the washers. Spacing it with washers should be fine, and even if something goes wrong it's not a load bearing part. Just do a quick inspection of the bolt & washers to make sure nothings bending whenever you do an oil-change. I also see your using grade 12.2 bolts with those washers, which is quite a bit harder than SAE grade 8. Those bolts should last a good long time...

 

Update - how do things look? Are there enough threads on the end of the allen head bolt? Do I need a lock washer?

The following pictures are of the suspension preloaded.





What do I torque this bolt down to? The gold one



Also - this is an attempt to try and show that the axis of the strut is parallel to the up axis of the endlink



THANKS!

 

word i had to do the same thing with my set up.

cept i have srr lca i had to use a decent amount of washers.

 

so do you think it looks acceptable?

if you dont mind, what length bolts did you use? Did you use a lock washer?

 

yep i used a lock washer that i had.
i used spare bolts i had in my bin. the 14mm bolts. from the lca
been drving like that for about 2 months and one track event.

i ordered the metal bushings from asr and i think im going to either get those blox oem style end links or use my function 7 helm joint ones i'll see.

 

update-

well, its installed. What I did was jack up each LCA until they were equal height, and the car was beginning to rise off the jackstands.

I used a nut with the nylon locking insert, and tightened to 22 lb-ft.

My question - the nut definately grabbed the bolt, but should I try and find a longer one so more threads are showing?

 

All you really need is to have one full turn of the bolt's thread on the opposite side of the nylon lock to be effective. If you are unsure, buy a slightly longer bolt.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update-

well, its installed. What I did was jack up each LCA until they were equal height, and the car was beginning to rise off the jackstands.

I used a nut with the nylon locking insert, and tightened to 22 lb-ft.

My question - the nut definately grabbed the bolt, but should I try and find a longer one so more threads are showing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thanks for the reply-

was my method of installation correct?

I raised both sides of the suspension equally to their approximate ride height, and then inserted the bolt through the LCA and endlink, tightened it, and lowered the suspension down.

Thanks again!

 

This looks beautifull.

enjoy the bar

 

thanks for the compliment! I am FINALLLLLY done the rear suspension + brakes. EVERY stupid seal and bushing is new.

 

i would think the tie bar unecessary and perhaps unsafe in the length of the lca bolt that has to hold everything together. redundancy in this case.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think the tie bar unecessary and perhaps unsafe in the length of the lca bolt that has to hold everything together. redundancy in this case.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 the ASR is technically a tie bar, so a tie bar on top of a tie bar won't do anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think the tie bar unecessary and perhaps unsafe in the length of the lca bolt that has to hold everything together. redundancy in this case.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the reply. The tie bar was on there, and from numerous people's opinions & personal setups it was deemed safe. I replaced the OEM bolts with grade 10.9 longer bolts.

In actuality, I dont think the longer bolt contributes to any structural losses. There is the same force applied on the same length of bolt for the LCAs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by super_nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

+1 the ASR is technically a tie bar, so a tie bar on top of a tie bar won't do anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeh, I know but it wont hurt and I like the aesthetics of it.

 

Looks very nice and it must feel great

 

First off, everything looks good. Lots of bling with those F7 LCA's.

Second, get rid of that tie bar. Just adding extra useless weight. Again, the ASR brace is basically a tie bar, plus that tie bar you added just looks way out of place. It isn't doing anything for you.

Third, are you using tokico blues with neuspeed race springs? In any case, get rid of those tokico blues and get some Koni Yellows. As for the springs, if they are neuspeed race springs, then you'll definitely blow out your tokico blues soon. Even with the Koni Yellows, you'll blow them out using the Neuspeed race springs. Might as well go with a Koni/GC setup, or Koni/Eibach sportline setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowboardgeek1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second, get rid of that tie bar. Just adding extra useless weight. Again, the ASR brace is basically a tie bar, plus that tie bar you added just looks way out of place. It isn't doing anything for you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew I would encounter some resistance with that picture... Be that as it may, I like the way it looks and the weight difference doesnt bother me Plus, here is one individual who inspired me to do so

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RARE_EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowboardgeek1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Third, are you using tokico blues with neuspeed race springs? In any case, get rid of those tokico blues and get some Koni Yellows. As for the springs, if they are neuspeed race springs, then you'll definitely blow out your tokico blues soon. Even with the Koni Yellows, you'll blow them out using the Neuspeed race springs. Might as well go with a Koni/GC setup, or Koni/Eibach sportline setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, care to elaborate? They are indeed Neuspeed Race springs. I have had that combo on the car for ~3 years with no problems, did you have the setup blow on you?

I realize the spring/shocks are a little weak compared to the rest... but I hafta concentrate on getting the motor together.

 

Nice job man and build the car how you like it.This site has become a bunch of cry babies that love pointing out what you can do better and not doing it themselves.

 

nice

 

I have had tokico blues with eibach pro kits, and the tokico's blew out very fast. Are you sure you rode 3 years with the tokico's and neuspeed race and haven't blown out the tokico's yet? The spring rates on the neuspeed race are very high. I wouldn't even run the neuspeed race with my koni's, but that's just me. Lowest I'd go with is my koni yellows plus eibach sportlines. The Koni's weren't designed for such a high spring rate like the neuspeed's, unless you get the SPS3 valving.

What I noticed with my prokits and stock struts, is the ride was comfortable and I didn't notice that the shocks were blown, until I took them out to replace them with the koni's, and tested out the stock shocks. I pushed them in, and it didn't rebound till 1 minute later.

I'd be careful running the tokico blues with neuspeed race. If you're set on running the neuspeed race, get some koni's and get them revalved for your neuspeed's spring rate.

Here's a pic of my rear setup.

 

Thanks for the reply!

I had the car in HS and had the blues+race on there for my final two years, and the rare times I came home from college. So, at least 2 years and I estimated 3 years of actual driving time.

I havent tested each strut, but I did ironically test the rear two when I reinstalled them. I had a bolt sieze up and I had to cut the welded nut off, figured I might as well test the strut! They rebounded immediately.

I am not set on running the current springs/struts, I am open for suggestions! I just spent a lot of $$ on some other parts, so its going to be a month or two before I am comfortable throwing some money at the suspension.

I PMed you two links to pictures showing the ride height of my car (when it actually ran lol), so you can suggest something that will give me the same relative height.

Thanks!

Seb