I'm running a optima redtop in the rear with a open battery tray and havent had any problems since its install a year ago

 

what do you need to do to pass tech inspection with a cabin mounted battery?
would a simple tie down be sufficient?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you need to do to pass tech inspection with a cabin mounted battery?
would a simple tie down be sufficient?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe it has to be in an approved battery box and you also need a kill switch mounted outside the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe it has to be in an approved battery box and you also need a kill switch mounted outside the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would need an approved box for sure. The kill switch is MANDATORY regardless of where the battery is located to pass tech-inspection for racing. The hatch lock hole is the perfect hole to put it in.

 

GOOD LOOKIN ON THE INFO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GOOD LOOKIN ON THE INFO </TD></TR></TABLE>

The battery kill switch is only mandatory in autocross racing (non open to public events) and 13.5 second cars or faster for 1/4 mile racing I beleive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The battery kill switch is only mandatory in autocross racing (non open to public events) and 13.5 second cars or faster for 1/4 mile racing I beleive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like i might need to look into one then since my turbo setup should put me well past that mark, hopefully

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Looks like i might need to look into one then since my turbo setup should put me well past that mark, hopefully </TD></TR></TABLE>

That rule applies to non-public events. Going to a test and tune on a general friday night, you won't need one.

Besides, only put one in if you break that mark, don't butcher the look of a car (they are ugly).

 

Ah, cool, i didn't really want to add one if i didn't have to, and yea i probably will only run it a public events

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loserkidwac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah, cool, i didn't really want to add one if i didn't have to, and yea i probably will only run it a public events</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once you hit 13.999 you need a helmet to race.

 

yeah me and buddy did the same thing in his crx. and be sure to mount it right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej8nonsense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah me and buddy did the same thing in his crx. and be sure to mount it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

7 Bungee cords, 4 zip ties and a peice of cloth haha. I ghetto rigged mine, doesn't even budge an 1/8 of an inch on hard corners.

 

my buddy did a battery relocation using a kit from ebay. it was a generic kit that was like 80 bucks. came with battery box, hold downs, and power adn ground cables with all hardware needed. he ran the cables under the chassis of the car. he had an rx-7, but i dont think that matters. just find where u want to mount the battery, get a relocation kit, and run the cables. sense the crx is so small, its not hard to run the cables under the half car's worht of carpeting that is there. just would have to drill holes into the firewall for the cables. its what i plan to do when i do mine,

 

http://homemadeturbo.com/tech_...ation/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And a drycell battery. The gases released by conventional batteries is toxic, and shouldn't be trapped in your car, with or without the box. I have a optima red-top in my hatch, sitting where the spare should be, full sized spare mounted next to it .</TD></TR></TABLE>

U got pix?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The battery kill switch is only mandatory in autocross racing (non open to public events) and 13.5 second cars or faster for 1/4 mile racing I beleive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I Think faster than that, i ran a 13.4 (i know shitty) with just a gangster relocation and they never said ****

 

Thanks guys. Damn dry cell batteries are expensive in my country .Cant i use a simple one?

 

you know, my location to place it, is exactly that. I throwed away my spare. If throttle body suck hot air ,,will that effect on performance? I removed my intake for turbo setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

U got pix?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can get some tonight for you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I Think faster than that, i ran a 13.4 (i know shitty) with just a gangster relocation and they never said **** </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sometimes they won't say anythign at a public event. But a real even they are tight on your ***.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arabian129 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys. Damn dry cell batteries are expensive in my country .Cant i use a simple one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless you want to breathe toxic gas, no, you shouldn't use a conventional one. I got my dry cell for free (my brother won't need it in his race car).