handled emissions


Modified by DC2SIR-G at 4:13 AM 8/31/2006

 

i heard from a friend that you can sell your car for a $0.01 to your Grandma and later buy it back from her for $0.01.

Other then that i think usdm ecu and i think a new cat would be a better choice to go with. I also heard you can put on a usdm stock airbox for smog also.....but i could also be wrong.

WELCOME TO SO-CAL my friend. I got a ticket for going 30mph on a 25mph street at 12:40 a.m with no traffic around.

 

thanks.. bump.. would i pass emissions here ? i already passed like 2 months ago.. is it strickter at the ref?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2SIR-G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks.. bump.. would i pass emissions here ? i already passed like 2 months ago.. is it strickter at the ref?</TD></TR></TABLE>


i think it is stricket at ref because its CHP doing the smog if im not wrong because i never got a ref ticket before....not too sure, but yeah its California what isnt strick here?

when is your ref ticket date?

 

in about a month

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2SIR-G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in about a month</TD></TR></TABLE>


ummm if you have a extra usdm motor like a Ls or a friend has motor sitting around just swap yours out and go for the smog or whatever the ref ticket place does. i mean it sounds easy "swapping motors" but its not. if u dont pass smog..i think your car gets impounded or someshit like that.

 

Sell me the JDM GSR motor for insanely cheap

 

Just take your car to the Ref, even with a JDM motor if you have all your smog **** hook up then you should pass the visual test. And you say your motor passed smog 2 month ago then if I was you make a appiontment and get it BARed. Remember to put everything back to stock if you still have stock parts so if will be much easyer for you, and put in your usdm ecu and your stock cat back on.

Going to the REF is not like people think its is just like taking your car to a smog shop but the bastard is smarter and money don't buy a way out.

 

there was an article in "import tuner" about the whole ref inspection and jdm engines. try getting a copy if you can, its the august 2006 edition. but ill copy you a quick "Cali engine swap guidelines".
1. The engine must be from the same year or newer vehicle. For example, if the car is a 1999 civic, the engine must be from a 1999 or newer car.
2. The engine can be larger than the oririnal, but cannot be from a heavy-duty vehicle, unless the vehicle was equpped with one from the factory.
3. The engine and chassis must have all of their original emissions components in place and fuctioning properly. However, mising and matching emissions parts from different vehicles is generally not allowed. As such it's up to the reff to decide what needs to be there. A quick way to see what you need is to look at the sticker under the hood. it will list all the emmissions that came on the car.
4. A federally ceritified engine cannot be used in a vehicle that was orinally equpped with a cali certified engine.

there is a whole lot more in the article about what they are looking for visually and the actual smog test as well. but did did mention something about the .2 difference in compression that could ahve led to failing the smog test of the excessive nox levels. they were testing a jdm b16 engine. they failed the whole test and even said that reff's usually fail most jdm engine for excessive emission levels. he was saying that about 1/3 of b16 fail. but i think they give you time to fix the problem if it fails cause the article said some people would go back 6-7 times still failing the test. good luck

 

as long as it is a replacement that is the same year or newer than your car then you will be fine

use the usdm ecu like you did before and make sure you have all your sensors and vacuum hooked up properly, and make sure you dont have any CEL's or you will fail automatically

as long as it is a properly done swap and make sure it doesnt look like a hack job with uncovered wires and hanging vacuum lines

even if you do have little goof ups they give you a list and show you what needs to be fixed, and once it is fixed then you can go back (you get one more try at no extra cost if you fail the first time) and the whole test is redone then if everything is good and it passes the emissions part you walk out with a BAR sticker and a smog certificate in your hand

 

wow the cop new you had a JDM in your dc2, never thought they would see that there wasn't the "1" after the C, ...change all the neccessary parts to USDM parts, ECU..etc theres a thread somewhere here on which ones to change out, then go get it passed wen u go to ref, and you will get it bar'd and you can drive that sucker all day and slap cops in the face left to right with that sticker , but you can sell it but..the ticket will still be under your name regardless of who owns the car. What got you caught anyway?

 

thanks for the informative replies.... bump for more... i was kinda lucky in a way... i had a JDM tranny with no VIN plates... he was about to impound my car like most of the folks that i knew that happened to them, but i showed him proof of the motor bought so he let me go with that ref ticket so im assuming i would pass this test because i passed the smog like 2 months ago right???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOOSTED RIVAL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just take your car to the Ref, even with a JDM motor if you have all your smog **** hook up then you should pass the visual test. And you say your motor passed smog 2 month ago then if I was you make a appiontment and get it BARed. Remember to put everything back to stock if you still have stock parts so if will be much easyer for you, and put in your usdm ecu and your stock cat back on.

Going to the REF is not like people think its is just like taking your car to a smog shop but the bastard is smarter and money don't buy a way out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if i pass the test at the ref to get my certificate for my ticket, wouldnt my car be automatically BARed?

 

if i pass the test at the ref to get my certificate for my ticket, wouldnt my car be automatically BARed?

YES

 

just make sure you can pass visual since you've already passed smog. i think you need a USDM: manifold, cat, catback, intake, ecu (P72 for the DC2)

correct me if i'm wrong anybody

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lqdcourage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just make sure you can pass visual since you've already passed smog. i think you need a USDM: manifold, cat, catback, intake, ecu (P72 for the DC2)

correct me if i'm wrong anybody</TD></TR></TABLE>

the intake manifold, cat, catback, intake are all the same

the only difference's are the pistons, slightly more agressive cams and the ecu

 

a friend told me that i can just sell the car to my cousin and ditch the ref ticket.. all i gotta do is smog it at a test only station.. is this true?? jw on all of my options out there.. anyways.. the intake manifold for JDM and USDM is different. the JDM one is missing a sensor thats why it doesnt pass smog... but i got a skunk2 manifold so no worries

 

dude that sucks....i'm just glad i dont live in Cali because my car would not pass any of those smog/emissions tests you guys have to do

 

My car dont pass too but there alway a laws around it that why you will still see modifly car in CALI. The problem is they will waste your time only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentdeath12886 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. The engine must be from the same year or newer vehicle. For example, if the car is a 1999 civic, the engine must be from a 1999 or newer car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess it depends where you go to because the place I go to doesn't care about what year the motor is, as long as it is the right OBD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XxNampsterxX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess it depends where you go to because the place I go to doesn't care about what year the motor is, as long as it is the right OBD.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for the state ref it has to be the same year or newer or you cannot get a BAR sticker for it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

for the state ref it has to be the same year or newer or you cannot get a BAR sticker for it</TD></TR></TABLE>

I haven't had a problem where I go. Those guys don't care.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XxNampsterxX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I haven't had a problem where I go. Those guys don't care.</TD></TR></TABLE>

youre lucky then, most ref's are pretty strict about that