Hello I have a bone stock 1991 honda civic 4 speed manual hatchback.

I have come to find out that the fuel pump is the reason my car died. The fuel pump is dead.

Questions:

Anything else I should replace since I am going to drop the tank?

How do you clean the tank once it is empty?

Should I buy OEM or aftermarket?


Thanks all for your help.

Jon

 

the filter, goto a lock parts store (autoze etc) and ask for a fuel filter, be sure to get the one that goes in the tank, i think mine was like 11 bucks.

idk how to cleaing the tank out?

 

I don't think you'll need to clean the tank really, gas pretty much keeps everything spotless, also what filter goes in the tank? the one on the end of the fuel pump? Because that will come with the pump if you get the whole kit when you get a new pump...as for stock or aftermarket depens on your plans for the car

 

Not to insult your trouble shooting skills, but is the pump dead, or just not getting voltage to run? The main relay provides the power for the pump for only about 2 seconds whent the ignition is first turned to run, then of course constantly when the ECU senses the engine is running. Main relay has a history of solder joint failure in that vintage.

 

just hope your tank doesnt look like this







its really hard to clean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to insult your trouble shooting skills, but is the pump dead, or just not getting voltage to run? The main relay provides the power for the pump for only about 2 seconds whent the ignition is first turned to run, then of course constantly when the ECU senses the engine is running. Main relay has a history of solder joint failure in that vintage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He speaks the truth.

BTW if it is the pump you can buy walbros on ebay for 100 shipped, that is less than a parts store pump atleast in my area anyway. Pluss it will provide more flow if you decide to go for more power.

 

Just had the same problem with my CRX. I got a walbro pump new on ebay for $89.00 shipped.

Cheaper than the factory replacement at the parts stores. And pretty easy to install.

 

Perfectionist--- Thanks for the advice. I got the haynes book to help me out. Not that clear but I know that if you have the engine "on" and check the voltage at electrical connector under the rear seat than the pump is dead. I have yet to check it as well as the relay. The relay part is pretty confusing. Is there an easier way to check the main relay i good or bad?

I am not looking to install turbo or Forced induction. I nee this to transport me as well as my young boys.

I also heard that there are things you want to get OEM and things that you can go aftermarket. Is this one of those parts that I can go aftermarket?

CoolRedXylophone--What is in the pics? looks like exhaust that took a bath a river!

You guys are awesome.

Thanks for the support

Jon

 

that was the gas tank on my hf when i bought it. had been sitting for about four or five years and rusted to hell, had to buy a new tank and pump.

http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html look under the 88-91 crx manual&gt;Full 1988 CRX Workshop Manual&gt;Electrical&gt;PGM-FI System&gt;Main Relay.

 

I would give the connector under the rear seat a straight 12v and see if the fuel pump primes, if it primes it might still be good if not change it I would also buy a walbro, they are about $100. I believe the fuel pump wire is yellow/black. you can also check to see if the ground is bad, it grounds its self to the gas tank. But make sure its the fuel pump first because cahanging fuel pumps on a Ef is a pain in the ***. If you do change the fuel pump, make sure to secure the sock on the fuel pump because if it falls off, you`ll be back in sqaure 1.

 

[QUOTE=bonstokLSI know that if you have the engine "on" and check the voltage at electrical connector under the rear seat than the pump is dead.


Again, the pump will only receive voltage for about 2 seconds when the ignition is first turned to run. Pretty much as long as the 'check engine' light is on. You have to look for voltage during that time. Or, as boostedstd suggests, run power directly to pump and see if the pump runs and primes.

The main relay, if it's bad, is a cheap and easy fix. 99.9% of the time they fail because of hairline fractures in the solder joints. Pull it out, take the cover off, resolder the joints, and good as new. Lots of info about it if you do a search.

 

I just had issues like this

I reseated the connector over the fuel gage sender and all was well

it is under the cargo bay(bak seat in other countries) in my rex

 

I actually took the main relay out to see if there was any issues with it.

In the manual it talks about 8 points but I can only see 7. When I took it out I only see 4 points. I went under neath the dash as showed in the pic.

I took some pics of it






This car was mfg in Canada. Is there a difference?

Thanks again for all helping.

Jon

 

thats not the main relay. correct me if im wrong. this is what it should look like. im not sure if it looks different for canadian civics or crxs

 

Anyone know if there are different ones? When I get home I will recheck it again.

 

Just talked to Honda and they are saying that there is only one type main relay and there are 7 posts. I took off something else. In the picture in Haynes it sure looks like the correct spot. I will have to check.

FYI

The part number for the main relay is

39400SH3003

For anyone in need.

 

Ok I checked and low andbehold there is the main relay.

It is in a pretty dang tight area. Any advice on how to remove it without breaking the panel? Anyone know the size socket to use to remove it?

Thank

Jon

 

10mm and on my hatch the best way to get it out was thru the coin tray. used a ratcheting wrench from the bottom to get the bolt off

 

Took the coin holder off but the pnaelling is still in my way!!! I will sap a pic of what I see...

 

when you are underneath the dash look all the way over to the left behind the coin tray you should be able to see it.

 

Yes I see it but even with the coin tray taken off, I can not find a way to remove the sucker. Frustrating!!!!

 

you should be able to get to the single bolt holding the main relay. it's right behind the coin holder bracket. 10mm open wrench will do it. then you gotta pry out the wire harness holder for it and remove it from the top.

 

10mm racheting box end is your friend

Its tight in there but you can get it, ubolt it and then it should just kind of fall off the mount and just work it out towards the front of the car and pull it down and unplug it

 

When you finally get it out (Yes it is a bitch, helps to have a small-handed little brother do it for you likek me...) do not put it back in like htat, lol. If the main relay isn't the problem and you want to keep the new one or sumthing, you do not wanna take it all out again. I just kinda shoved mine up there so it's tight but still easy to get to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you finally get it out (Yes it is a bitch, helps to have a small-handed little brother do it for you likek me...) do not put it back in like htat, lol. If the main relay isn't the problem and you want to keep the new one or sumthing, you do not wanna take it all out again. I just kinda shoved mine up there so it's tight but still easy to get to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, once you do it a bunch it gets a little easier...but if you leave it loose its a good theft deturant, just unplug it and put it in your pock, not many people will steal a car that won't start