ok before anything, i've searched for hours on the board and came up with nothing that applies to my problem. so i figured i'd ask specifically for help.

here is the deal. i bought a JDM h22 longblock. complete dizzy *jdm internal coil* before that i had a USDM h22 longblock that i had swapped into my prelude. i swapped it in and everything fired up fine. sparked and fueled great! ran good. i took the motor out due to buying the JDM h22. so it was about a good week that i took the US motor out. and 3 days ago i got and i finished the JDM h22 swap. BUT im having a bit of trouble with the sparking. first i used the JDM harness and plugged it onto the inside harness *which is US ofcourse*. i had two plugs on the JDM harness that had nothing to plug onto inside, so i figured it probably ran to my dizzy so it wasnt getting power/signal to send spark. so i complete removed the JDM harness and swapped my US harness back into the car and converted the internal dizzy to the external dizzy. still till today i have no spark and i dont really know what to do.

basically it doesnt spark from if i pull the insultor from the plug to the dizzy cap. fuel is there. and primes perfectly. so i went ahead to troubleshoot the problem.

here are the things i've checked and done..
-Fuses are all checked and not blown.
-ignition switch fuse not blown.
-ignition coil is new. *i have 2 working external coil*
-ECU work because i just bought a Spoon P13 which worked in my friends car.
-used a P28 just to double check.
-i rechecked ground. t-stat.engine.tranny.
-main relay is working. and used my friends main relay. still nothing.
-dizzy cap and rotor are new.
-there is no shaft play on the dizzy. Both JDM and USDM dizzy that i have.
-since i was using the JDM dizzy at first, i thought my ignitor on the JDM probably blew but i switched it with the USDM ignitor which i knew worked the week before but still nothing.
-now im on the USDM dizzy and still nothing. no spark at all.
-TDC was done.
-spark plugs and wires are new. NGK.
-timing belt is spinning the cams.
-switched my ignition switch. still nothing.


so im just about out of things to do and i really need someone's help!!

im honestly leaning towards another ignitor. i heard these tend to self destruct when they want to.

also when i turn my car to ACC (II) my check light comes on and wont go off. and when i jumped the connector to get a code on the P13, i didnt get any code.but when i jumped it with a P28 i got a CODE 15 (faulty ignitor)

my friend is coming over tomorrow to let me use his ignitor just to see if that could be the case. but any inputs right now would be really helpful!!

 

ttt

 

 

 

 

due to having to deal with this problem plenty in the past few weeks heres the order in which to diagnose this problem, i really ought to draw up a flowchart in paint, but i think this will do for now, actually, no it wont, im making a flowchart, ill be back in a little bit....

edit: expletive paint, here goes:

just a pre-emptive, this is to troubleshoot not starting when you are getting fuel, on an internal coil dizzy

pull the 2-pin clip off at the dizzy, check for 12v on the black/yellow striped wire at the dizzy with the ign on II(on)

if you have voltage there, pull a spark plug out, ground it (away from anything flammable) and have a friend crank the car, if it doesnt spark, either the coil or ignitor or the wires inside connecting the two are bad

if it does spark, line up the mark on the flywheel so the motor is at tdc, then pull the valve cover off and make sure the cam gears are lined up, if they are you either flooded the combustion chambers too much and washed down the walls with fuel, or you have a major physical engine problem keeping you from starting, i reccomend a compression test on all cylinders....if that comes out ok, lets get that puddle of fuel off the pistons: you now need to pull the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the dizzy, pull the plugs out, and with the plug holes open, crank the motor around for about 10 seconds, then drop a slight amount of oil in there, and crank it around for another 10 seconds

the objective here is to firstly wash the gas past the piston rings and into the sump, and then secondly to get some oil in there so you can make compression, gas doesn't make compression like oil does....keep in mind after you get it to start, immediately change the oil....

if you didnt get any voltage at the dizzy, make sure your engine harness in plugged in and snug, and though i haven't had to find it yet over there, im sure the big black/yel wire would be easy to find over there, check for voltage there

im SURE you have already checked all the fuses (keep in mind OP im not talking directly to you, i know you did) then go down to the ecu and check pin A21 or A22 (theyre shorted together) for obd1 and pin A20 for obd2, check for 12v with the key on II(on), if you have 12v there, you have a bad wire under the dash somewhere, which is pretty rare, or you're bad at checking fuses

if you don't have 12v there, check to make sure that the main relay is sending the signal to the ecu that the key is on II(on) by simply looking to see if the check engine light at least lights up for any amount of time when you turn the key from I(acc) to II(on), if it does, i believes that your ecu is bad


i hope my logic all worked out, i wrote that pretty haphazardly....lmk if i f'ed something up

oh and good luck getting it running.....


Modified by mgags7 at 9:16 PM 8/27/2006


Modified by mgags7 at 9:17 PM 8/27/2006

 

^^^ THANKS ALOT BRO!! i'll let you know it that baby fires up!