this is a tensioner for the front side of the timing belt that eliminate timing belt shake or slap, ive personaly used and seen timing belt slap dissapear with this tensioner on my own motors. eliminating the belt movement keeps crank and cams synced which creats a more acurate tune and smooter power.

this kit is now available to the public for B and H series,

check link for more info -> http://www.etdracing.com/tensioner/

You can also find auctions on ebay for this kit if you seach, "honda timing tensioner"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW






Modified by shant at 8:27 PM 8/27/2006

 

Thats the Vibrant Performance timing belt tensioner. I've had one for about four months now.

Great product.

 

Good looking out man.

 

How much $$$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic H22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much $$$</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Looks like a nice piece, the MSRP ($US) is $239.95
http://vibrantperformance.com/...c2ce7

 

i prefer to run all my belt covers.

T.Palo, Make me one of these, but better. i wanna use my timing belt covers AND use that TQ mount.

 

Cog belts are not supposed to have tension on the drive side. I watched people put these on blower motors and then started shreding belts quickly. I'm not saying its a poor design. But to label it as a tensioner I would not do. More a guide if anything. In my opinion I would set it a about a blonde **** hair from the belt . But to apply tension no. These belts need slack to live. Setting them tight tight is a no no. I'm just saying this becuase I can picture people buying this and then cranking it down on the belt to much. It would lead to a quicker failure of the belt. Other than that it looks like a very nice piece.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cog belts are not supposed to have tension on the drive side. I watched people put these on blower motors and then started shreding belts quickly. I'm not saying its a poor design. But to label it as a tensioner I would not do. More a guide if anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What about the SRT-4 motor? Don't they have a stationary pulley on the drive side? Isn't this the same thing?

 

239 dollars, good lord!!!

 

Well does it apply adjustable tension? Or is it just a stationary guide. I'm not bashing the product by any means. Just trying to add some constructive critisim.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well does it apply adjustable tension? Or is it just a stationary guide. I'm not bashing the product by any means. Just trying to add some constructive critisim.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it is adjustable


You can also find auctions on ebay for this kit if you seach, "honda timing tensioner"

 

I would not use it for tension but for an idler just to reduce the slap in the belt.

 

has this tensioner hurt anyones motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fknfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has this tensioner hurt anyones motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope.. I just put one on my B motor and it is great. I even have the bottom timing cover installed, and can probably install the top cover with a few mods. ETD Racing designed this part, and Vibrant is selling a bunch. While you can put lots of tension on the belt with this item, John@ETD just put it snug against my timing belt when he installed it for me. I'm sure you have seen a timing belt jump around when dynoing a car, this eliminates this.

Most of my experience is with twin cam Mazda B6 and BP engines (Miata/Escort GT/Mazda GTX), and those engines have 1 tensioner, but 2 belt pullies. The belts don't move on them. This part in my opinion does what the Mazda engines did from factory. This exact product was designed on the Vibrant All-Motor CRX, and that car from a 590 lift (I think) cam, stiff springs, and makes a whole lotta power. No issues in well over a year of use. My only concern is if someone installed it with FAR TOO MUCH tension. That could maybe hurt the belt.

It is a great idea But something new to get used to...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 905_Legend &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like a nice piece, the MSRP ($US) is $239.95
http://vibrantperformance.com/...c2ce7 </TD></TR></TABLE>

i sell these for 169 pm for details.

 

looks like a nice piece but i just tension my belt enough that it doesnt slap. its free too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like a nice piece but i just tension my belt enough that it doesnt slap. its free too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project-D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My only concern is if someone installed it with FAR TOO MUCH tension. That could maybe hurt the belt.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cam journals could be damaged as well.

 

i'd worry about too much tension going against the water pump as well..i know it's on the drive side...but more tention there could put more on teh driven side as well

 

Buy a new OEM tensioner and tension it right the first time. No need to waste $250. Millions of people have ran their motors w/o that thing w/o any problems. To me, spend your $250 else where.

 

Maybe I am missing something--but I think if Honda thought it was necessary to have a second tensioner/pulley they probably would have put it there. Maybe it does help with a 10,000 rpm + motor--as Honda never intended for their motors to ever see those kinds of engine speeds. I also would be worried about people cranking them down and having either the belt break or the stock tensioner slip. About 5 years ago right after putting a new cam in, I must have really made the belt too tight--after 20 minutes of driving I spun it up to 8500 and the tensioner slipped--letting the belt lose tension--I bent every valve and broke 2 guides. So to this day I am very weary about too much belt tension.

 

Also, if your belt is tensioned properly when you first start the car before it warms up--the belt WILL be flapping a little on the exhaust side--once everything is up to temp and the parts expand--you should have zero to very little flapping at any engine speed.

 

sorry didnt wanna say this but i cant hold my tongue...THeres plenty of us making high high hp without using one of these...And a properly adjusted belt is free. This sounds like someone just trying to start another HT bandwagon if you ask me.

Also...i spin my motor a little higher than 10,500...and im still on stock tensioner and a stock belt. zero problems.

 

I've personally seen Pro 4/Hot Rod Teams using similar items, and I am aware of other teams who have been waiting for this type of product to be released since it was first showcaed at SEMA 2005 and PRI 2005.

I'm sure you will start seeing this on more and more pro teams in the future... I know a few current teams where wanting these items prior to them been available.

Keep in mind, I don't work for Vibrant or ETD Racing, but do have a racing relationship with both companies.

Here is a quote from the top link...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Direct quote from ETD Racing's website &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why a secondary timing belt tensioner?
1) Have you ever seen a car on the dyno with the timing belt exposed? The long side of the belt at the front (between the Exhaust cam and Crank Pulley) has a travel distance of aprox 12" with no tensioner. The belt flaps over 1" while under load at high RPM. Why is this a problem? Your cam timing is very important at high RPM and this flapping creates a variation between the crank and cams. However small you may think it is, remember how fast the motor spins and how many revolutions per minute were talking about. The difference will throw your cam timing and spark out enough to cause a timing difference. The pulley keeps the long side of the belt tight which keeps your timing in check. Many pro racers have been building and using these for years on their own cars with self machined parts and OEM pulleys. Finally a commercially available product for your street/strip car is available.

2)As you run a really high lift cam you run heavy valve springs to eliminate valve float. Much heavier valve springs puts a lot more tension on your timing belt. The tensioner then places much needed additional pressure on the exhaust side of the timing belt to help stop the belt from flapping knocking out cam/crank timing. The higher you rev your motor the more pronounced these problems become.

3)On the Vibrant Performance / ETDRacing all motor drag car we run high lift cams (.590 lift, read huge) and heavy valve springs. All the tension on the cam gear from those huge cams lift caused the gear to slip back a tooth on our Kevlar belt when the motor was being turned off. As the motor slowed down to a stop the cam was left on a heavy spring and it rolled back and skipped a tooth because of the slack in the belt. After we developed the tensioner we eliminated this problem and have not skipped a tooth on our cam gears since. The product came as a solution to a problem for our very own race car. We were lucky and noticed it moved with marks we placed on the belt and cam gear, one of our fellow racers was not so lucky and bent a few valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>