CRX problems, debating selling, need help/opinions guys
After many hard hours working on the CRX, I have come to the conclusion that I have no f*ing clue wtf is wrong with it. As of now, I have gone to the track about 8 times. My best time was the 1st time I was ever at the track, and I ran a 15.466. Since then, nothing but higher #'s. I am really getting frustrated, and I do not understand what I can do to fix it. When I first took it to the track, the B16a was totally stock. Since then I have added: CAI, DC Sports 4-2-1 Headers, Exhaust, Valve Adjustment (Yesterday), Timing Adjustment (Yesterday), NGK Sparks (About 8 hours ago), and a mess of other things. I don't know whether it's my driving or not, but I'm really depressed about it. I should be running in the mid/high 14's, and I can't get out of the high 15's right now. After the tuneup and sparks, it seems to almost run worse. I have a clicking sound coming from where my intake cam is. I though the valve adjustment would fix that, but my mechanic said it wasn't the valves that were clicking that bad...It's something else. I am also getting a lot of little 'pops' out of the muffler when I let off the gas. I have had these before, but they seem to have gotten a lot worse lately. I don't know, maybe the plugs were gapped wrong or something, but I am about ready to get rid of the gdamn thing and just start over with a new ED9/EF and another B16a or even B18. Here is a list of what I have on her now, and below are a couple of pics. What do you guys think I could get for her, and/or does anyone have any suggestions about what is going on with her. I have already checked the ECU, and it's not throwing any codes. On tonights runs, here are my #'s:
1st run:
R/T: .920
60': 2.499
1/4: 15.631@90.67mpg
2nd run:
R/T: .742
60': 2.603
1/4: 15.815@91.05
3rd run:
R/T: .514 (I was proud of this one)
60': 2.565 (Pride facing)
1/4: 15.802@90.27 (Pride totally gone)
I am, but I'm not having traction problems at the same time. If I launch at 2500rpm with the 17's on, I hop maybe once and take off. I know the 17's were hurting my 60' time, but I don't think that by putting 15's would take almost a second off the 1/4 considering that is how much I need to get off in order to get down to what I am supposed to be. I need some opinions guys, as I said earlier, I am ready to sell her right now...
Engine & Drivetrain
B16a1
CAI
DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Coated Header
Test Pipe
2.25" Cat-Back Exhaust
OBX Bomb Tunable Muffler
OBX 10.3mm Spark Plug Wires (These aren't helping, but they look good)
New NGK plugs (Non-platinum)
Suspension
Eibach Sportlines (2" drop, 2.25" in front really cuz of engine weight)
Stock shocks
OBX (Identical to DC Sports) Strut Bars (Front, Rear Upper, Rear Lower)
Interior
Sony XPLOD Head Unit
Fosgates 6 1/2" in back, Planet Audio 5 1/4" in front
Boss 450x2 amp
Kick Solo-Baric 10" Sub
PS2 in rear storage compartment
5.6" TVT-LCD Screen
Underfeet neons
Indiglo guages
Autometer 5" Tach
Autometer A/F Guage in dual guage pod
Exterior
17" Enkei Suzuka's w/ 2 New 204/40/17 Escta Supras in front, ZE-502's in rear
Clear corners
Clear bumpers
White Neon Underbody kit
Aftermarket Fog Lamps
10% Tint all around




Right now that's all I can think of. I was looking to ask about $7k-$7500O.B.O. Is that too high, or good?
Thanks guys if you have read this far...If you haven't read this far...Well, you aren't reading this I guess then....Ummm, ok.
jB
[Modified by PeloTudo, 1:07 AM 4/27/2002]
1st run:
R/T: .920
60': 2.499
1/4: 15.631@90.67mpg
2nd run:
R/T: .742
60': 2.603
1/4: 15.815@91.05
3rd run:
R/T: .514 (I was proud of this one)
60': 2.565 (Pride facing)
1/4: 15.802@90.27 (Pride totally gone)
I am, but I'm not having traction problems at the same time. If I launch at 2500rpm with the 17's on, I hop maybe once and take off. I know the 17's were hurting my 60' time, but I don't think that by putting 15's would take almost a second off the 1/4 considering that is how much I need to get off in order to get down to what I am supposed to be. I need some opinions guys, as I said earlier, I am ready to sell her right now...
Engine & Drivetrain
B16a1
CAI
DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Coated Header
Test Pipe
2.25" Cat-Back Exhaust
OBX Bomb Tunable Muffler
OBX 10.3mm Spark Plug Wires (These aren't helping, but they look good)
New NGK plugs (Non-platinum)
Suspension
Eibach Sportlines (2" drop, 2.25" in front really cuz of engine weight)
Stock shocks
OBX (Identical to DC Sports) Strut Bars (Front, Rear Upper, Rear Lower)
Interior
Sony XPLOD Head Unit
Fosgates 6 1/2" in back, Planet Audio 5 1/4" in front
Boss 450x2 amp
Kick Solo-Baric 10" Sub
PS2 in rear storage compartment
5.6" TVT-LCD Screen
Underfeet neons
Indiglo guages
Autometer 5" Tach
Autometer A/F Guage in dual guage pod
Exterior
17" Enkei Suzuka's w/ 2 New 204/40/17 Escta Supras in front, ZE-502's in rear
Clear corners
Clear bumpers
White Neon Underbody kit
Aftermarket Fog Lamps
10% Tint all around




Right now that's all I can think of. I was looking to ask about $7k-$7500O.B.O. Is that too high, or good?
Thanks guys if you have read this far...If you haven't read this far...Well, you aren't reading this I guess then....Ummm, ok.
jB
[Modified by PeloTudo, 1:07 AM 4/27/2002]
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: PhantomGrayEH2, CA Where Gay Arnold Rules, USA
Im going for 5k, cause if your asking for 7 or 8 might as well put a little more into it and get a 94-95 GSR that is running those times.
Anyone have any idea of why it's just not performing even close to its potential? My electronics were wired pretty crappy when the swap was done (I didn't do the swap, a shop in Jacksonville did it before I got the car), so I'm debating that might be the problem. I'm also thinking about the gapping of the plugs I put in yesterday. It idles fine, and seems to run okay. It's a little rough though, and seems to have more hesitation after the new plugs were put in. Should I just get a set of platinums and put them in there and see how it works out?
jB
jB
Can't comment on the price but I wouldn't buy it just becuase of what's in it. A car like that with a ps2 in it and what not would be stolen in a week around here. The only way I would buy it is if I was going to turn around and sell it because I have having my cars ripped off!... Other than that it's a very dope crx despite the huge blings blings (17's)!
i did not make it friday night to meet you guys.ill be there next week though!nice rex.every one on honda- tech ond other forums go through it.dont run right a little sign of rust or a dent.my hb is in pretty good shape,last week i noticed that there was little rust spots around the fender well.im talking about 4 or 5 specs is all.all the time i spend cleaning it and this is what i get.when i start thinking about selling it,i hear in my head my friends say dont sell it you retard.its in killer shape and its PAID!when your friends or people say nice car then im like ya it is.anyway i love my hondas ever since my first 83 hb 1.3.they allways got me to where i need to go and got me home period.....................
HEY YOU HAVE A B16 I DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!
BUT MY- D- RUNS PRETTY GOOD
[Modified by 4gvtec, 4:44 PM 4/27/2002]
[Modified by 4gvtec, 4:46 PM 4/27/2002]
HEY YOU HAVE A B16 I DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!
BUT MY- D- RUNS PRETTY GOOD
[Modified by 4gvtec, 4:44 PM 4/27/2002]
[Modified by 4gvtec, 4:46 PM 4/27/2002]
If you want better track times loose the 17's and put like 14's on. Bigger wheels actually slow you down because it takes more to get them spinning. Try a smaller rim before you deside to sell it.
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Very nice looking car. With you setup you should definately be in the mid 14 easily. Did you ever go to the track on some 14s? Those 17s will definately slow you down. Ok, so let's say you take the car to the track tomm and you hit a high 13..would you still want to sell it? I would try the 14s and take it to a dyno to get some tuning work done. Something does not seem right. One last thing maybe let a buddy take a couple shots at it?
[Modified by Brandon Chun, 11:42 AM 4/27/2002]
[Modified by Brandon Chun, 11:42 AM 4/27/2002]
When I first started racing it, I was using 14's. I got 15.466 using the 14's, and that the best I have ever been able to do. The rest has been worse. Even though, I lose the traction with the 14's that I gain with the heaver 17's...so it isn't going to take THAT much off. I can feel the difference when I slap on the 14's, but not a seconds worth.
jB
Yeah, I am going to let Matt take a shot at driving it this Wednesday. He drives a freaking awesome 95 GSR, and is a pretty good driver. I'm all paranoid though that something is going to snap with someone else driving it. Matt, if you drive it, you gotta let me use your 15's though
[Modified by PeloTudo, 2:44 PM 4/27/2002]
jB
Yeah, I am going to let Matt take a shot at driving it this Wednesday. He drives a freaking awesome 95 GSR, and is a pretty good driver. I'm all paranoid though that something is going to snap with someone else driving it. Matt, if you drive it, you gotta let me use your 15's though

[Modified by PeloTudo, 2:44 PM 4/27/2002]
1st off, take all the stereo **** out, when you go to the track,
2nd you are probably dumping the clutch, dont...feather the clutch at 4-5k and you will be fine, also upgrade your shocks, it will lessen the tilt motion from acceleration, thus giving more power to the front wheels...
lose the 17's for 15's...
2nd you are probably dumping the clutch, dont...feather the clutch at 4-5k and you will be fine, also upgrade your shocks, it will lessen the tilt motion from acceleration, thus giving more power to the front wheels...
lose the 17's for 15's...
Get some Civic VX Rims, they are very light, around 9lbs and they are 13''.
Also think of any weight you have added from crap like PS2, DVD, TVs, and all that stuff.
Also think of any weight you have added from crap like PS2, DVD, TVs, and all that stuff.
How much is the stereo going to help? I mean, the amp weights about 5-10pds and the sub is a single 10" in a truck box (weighs about 20 pds, tops). I debated it, but didn't take the time cuz I didn't think it would help that much. I am dumping, at about 2.5-3. If I dump at 3 I spin...if I dump at 2.5 then it hops a little and I go. 4-5K seems REALLY high, even if I do feather. Especially on 15's, I'll have enough time to eat lunch while sitting on the line spinning.
thats why your spinning and hopping is cause your dumping it, trust me feathering works very good, i was running 15.6 in a 91 civic hatch with a zc i/h/e, and was having problems with the zc, and i was feathering the clutch at 4500...
i agree with everyone else...before u sell it throw some smaller/lighter wheels on and give it a couple of runs..dont dump the clutch either.
dood u r scaring me since im planning to do the b16a swap in about 5 weeks time and now im worried about my car being slower than wot it is now (zc)
also i read somewhere on this forum that in a ZC vs B16a race the ZC would win uptil around 60 ..how and why is this??
cheers
dood u r scaring me since im planning to do the b16a swap in about 5 weeks time and now im worried about my car being slower than wot it is now (zc)
also i read somewhere on this forum that in a ZC vs B16a race the ZC would win uptil around 60 ..how and why is this??
cheers
I'll see if I can get a hold of a friends Si wheels for next week. I practiced feathering tonight (As I rolled a Tiburon BTW), and I can see where it really helps. I am not exactly sure why the ZC would take the B16a until about 60. I would guess b/c of VTEC in 2nd. 1st is just there for me to get to 2nd and that's where I really pull. Hit 3rd and I'm pullin hard. The ZC might not have the higher end like the VTEC does.
jB
jB
you need to work on your launch, your mph is good for a high 14. you need to get your 60' times down to 2.1-2.2 and you'd be in there. remember one tenth lower in 60' equals about 2 tenth less in the 1/4.get some 13's or 14's with a GOOD set of tires and go racing AGAIN......
damn u crxgator. i am so pissed. i just read all the way to your post thinking the exact same **** as u just said. word for word.
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