I replaced the thermostat in my GSR and the gauge came up a bit more than before but still not getting to temp.Need some help with this one.Ive been driving for a couple months with the temp gauge not setting properly and it got worse and worse, until it wouldnt get to temp at all.


Could it not get to reg. temp. if my radiator cap is bad?

What activates the fan switch the temp gauge or the actuall temp of the engine?

What else could it be?


Thanks

 

What kind of thermostat did you put in? I used an autozone the first time around and the thermostat is complete trash. Its spring isnt near the quality of the OEM and it did about the same thing you're talking about. I finally replaced it again with an OEM unit and it fixed the problem.

 

I forked out the $35. and bought the Honda thermo.

Though I did cheap out and bought a autozone rad. cap.Im letting it cool to see if that fixes it.My old cap's spring fell off so Im thinking that could maybe be the reason?I dont know if that would cause it to not get to full temp.

 

Also If I drained all that coolant, and then filled back up, do I need to bleed the system for air?

If so how?

Will VTEC engage properly if the temp gauge isnt at reg temp?

Thanks


Modified by P@@RB@Y at 6:19 PM 8/25/2006


Modified by P@@RB@Y at 6:20 PM 8/25/2006

 

Bump-edy-bump..lets all get drunk!

 

 

Coolant temperature sensor maybee.

 

my buddy has one of those fake Spoon Radiator cap that he got from Ebay and it work on his car.

YES, if you drain the radiator fluid and fill it up with more fluid you'll need to bleed the system for air. I think you have air bubbles in your coolent and its traped by the thermostate. Here is how you bleed your coolent, let your car cool down, pop your radiator cap, turn your car on and turn the heater on to FULL BLAST, then look for the bleed screw on the return radiator housing, (by the dizzy). losing that and let the fluid run until its a nice smooth stream then close it and add coolent to your radiator as your car is still runing. Let the car run and watch to see if there's any bubbles that comes up, this process takes about 15mins. After that pop the radiator cap back on.

 

....i didnt get an OEM, and mine still works just wonderfully. i think the temp of the anti-freeze turns on the fan...why dont you get a different fan? one that turns on at lower temps? (regular fan turn-on is 76.5)

 

you need to check the temperature sending unit. Its located on the head below the dizzy it a single wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lqdcourage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....i didnt get an OEM, and mine still works just wonderfully. i think the temp of the anti-freeze turns on the fan...why dont you get a different fan? one that turns on at lower temps? (regular fan turn-on is 76.5)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean 176.5 right? Either way, the thermostat opens in the 170ish range (I believe its 168-176) and fully opens by 194, the fan doesnt kick on until around the 220 mark (218 I believe) and changing the fan isnt going to change when it comes on, thats controlled by the ECU. Either way, the temp sensor is next on the list, which I've had to replace mine previously as well.

 

I looked in my helms for a pic of the ECT, the ECT sending unit and the bleeder screw.

The bleeder screw is supposed to be in the spot right where the upper rad. hose hooks up.I just have a whole there.Its not threaded either.Anyone have a close up of the B18C of the bleeder screw?


Also how do I know if the ECT or the sending unti is bad?Just replace them?

Thanks alot

 

The 96+ dont have bleeder screws and the proper way to bleed them is to tighten the radiator cap to 1 click (vs 2) and let the car warm up to operating temperature. Im assuming this might be your problem.

It "should" be on the upper coolant neck as shown in this pic.

 

Damn that sucks.I have a 95' but no bleeder screw.Im assuming its supposed to be threaded.Is it thread farther back to where you cant see it or something?Either that or that part was replaced with a newer part for a 96' and up?Hmmm

Thanks for the pic.

 

Ok replaced the Sending uinit.Wa-La it warms up!

Fan isnt coming on. Next step i guess is the fan switch correct?Or is it that I need to bleed the air out?

 

Your radiator or a hose may be clogged and its not allowing proper circulation of the coolant to get around or the thermostat you purchase may be stuck open (defective).

 

No its working properly now.Just the fan isnt coming on.

 

check you fan plug and relay.

 

You've got grimlins. Will either fan kick on? Is the car overheating or atleast going above the half way point on the temp gauge?

 

Grimlins!! The ones that live in vents and suck sols while your sleepping?

I checked the fuse and its good.I dont know how to check the relay.Couldnt it be the fan switch?

I tried to blled the system.I took the rad. cap off and ran the engine for 15 mins. with the heater on full blast.Got maybe 3 small bubbles.Is this the right way?I was expecting alot of buubles.

And no its not overheating at all.Thank GOD

 

If the car isnt overheating then the fan may very well be working just fine. It doesnt kick on until ~220 degrees which takes a good bit of in town driving/being parked for a long time. It wont kick on at all on interstate and will only come on occassionally during city driving, so are you 100% positive its not working and that the car just isnt hot enough to kick it on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RIP Indian Larry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Coolant temperature sensor maybee.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, check your coolant temp sensor on left side of the head when your facing the engine bay, i just replaced mine cuz my temp wasnt working and it fixed the prob right away