which way to go
i have a b18b obd1, and i was wondering what is going to be more reliable? bang for buck? just give me feedback
this is what i've got so far
Act stage 4 clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing
AEM Cold air intake
AEM fuel rail
AEM tru time pulleys
B&M fuel pressure regulater, with gauge
Crower stage 1 cams
DC Sports 4 2 1 one piece header
Golden eagle adjustable cam gears
GSR obd2 injectors
GSR transmission Phantom Grip LSD with LS 5th gear
Hondata intake gasket
Mr. Gasket distributor cap and rotor button
Nopi brand - lightweight flywheel
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Unorthadox Crank pulley
this is what i've got so far
Act stage 4 clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing
AEM Cold air intake
AEM fuel rail
AEM tru time pulleys
B&M fuel pressure regulater, with gauge
Crower stage 1 cams
DC Sports 4 2 1 one piece header
Golden eagle adjustable cam gears
GSR obd2 injectors
GSR transmission Phantom Grip LSD with LS 5th gear
Hondata intake gasket
Mr. Gasket distributor cap and rotor button
Nopi brand - lightweight flywheel
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Unorthadox Crank pulley
Turbo kit, turbo kit, turbo kit, turbo kit. Stroker kit is a waste of money for your setup, the JRSC is going to make 150whp (with bolt ons) and the ls/vtec just isnt going to compare $$$, performance or reliability wise to the turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the JRSC is going to make 150whp (with bolt ons) .</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm....whered you get this number?? ONE hes cammed...two..ive seen them make quite a bit more than that on an LS..by your number a supercharged ls is on par with a bolt on gsr...which is NOT the case
and to the OP ...you need to remove the SC from your list if you find a turbo to be unreliable...If anything Id feel safer with the power of a turbo over the RIDICULOUS amounts of heat the SC generates which leads to detonation
umm....whered you get this number?? ONE hes cammed...two..ive seen them make quite a bit more than that on an LS..by your number a supercharged ls is on par with a bolt on gsr...which is NOT the case
and to the OP ...you need to remove the SC from your list if you find a turbo to be unreliable...If anything Id feel safer with the power of a turbo over the RIDICULOUS amounts of heat the SC generates which leads to detonation
http://www.jacksonracing.com
Sorry, its 160 whp with bolt-ons. NA cams arent going to necessarily help things on a forced induction application (thus the common swap from ITR cams to GSR cams when you go FI). The JRSC is being discontinued for the LS because IT SUCKS.
Stroker kit isnt going to be good because a 92 or 95mm stroke is going to kill your rod/stroke ratio and only adds 3-7% more displacement (unless you'd like to sleeve your block and bore it out as well). Thus its $2k for an extra 15whp???
LS/Vtec - If built properly its reliable, but so often they arent built right and lead straight to a trashed engine. Its probably the best bang for the buck out of your options but also probably the least reliable (just going off % of failed projects).
Bolt-on Turbo - Easy bolt-on operation that you really cant screw up the project like a ls/vtec, reliable as long as its tuned correctly and provides the most hp and hp-to-$$$ ratio. Thus, all you have to do is get a decent tune and you're golden.
Sorry, its 160 whp with bolt-ons. NA cams arent going to necessarily help things on a forced induction application (thus the common swap from ITR cams to GSR cams when you go FI). The JRSC is being discontinued for the LS because IT SUCKS.
Stroker kit isnt going to be good because a 92 or 95mm stroke is going to kill your rod/stroke ratio and only adds 3-7% more displacement (unless you'd like to sleeve your block and bore it out as well). Thus its $2k for an extra 15whp???
LS/Vtec - If built properly its reliable, but so often they arent built right and lead straight to a trashed engine. Its probably the best bang for the buck out of your options but also probably the least reliable (just going off % of failed projects).
Bolt-on Turbo - Easy bolt-on operation that you really cant screw up the project like a ls/vtec, reliable as long as its tuned correctly and provides the most hp and hp-to-$$$ ratio. Thus, all you have to do is get a decent tune and you're golden.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> NA cams arent going to necessarily help things on a forced induction application </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true but as far as type r's swappin out the cams...I feel thats very foolish because the duration/overlap of honda oem cams are not enough to cause a contamination of the intake charge on an FI setup...Same goes for his stage 1 crowers...they will not hurt FI performance they will help it
this is true but as far as type r's swappin out the cams...I feel thats very foolish because the duration/overlap of honda oem cams are not enough to cause a contamination of the intake charge on an FI setup...Same goes for his stage 1 crowers...they will not hurt FI performance they will help it
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[QUOTE=95 integra
LS/Vtec - If built properly its reliable, but so often they arent built right and lead straight to a trashed engine. Its probably the best bang for the buck out of your options but also probably the least reliable (just going off % of failed projects).
[/QUOTE]
not hating on you or anything but any motor that is built is only as reliable as its builder
the reason that there are alot of failures is because there are some people out the with thick skulls and thing the stock LS bottom end can handle 8000rpms all day but it cant handle the abuse with stock rod bolts so in most cases of failure it is due to a spun bearing
I put arp rod bolts and acl bearing my lsvtec and it spun smoother and i took it higher than the stock gsr I have now
LS/Vtec - If built properly its reliable, but so often they arent built right and lead straight to a trashed engine. Its probably the best bang for the buck out of your options but also probably the least reliable (just going off % of failed projects).
[/QUOTE]
not hating on you or anything but any motor that is built is only as reliable as its builder
the reason that there are alot of failures is because there are some people out the with thick skulls and thing the stock LS bottom end can handle 8000rpms all day but it cant handle the abuse with stock rod bolts so in most cases of failure it is due to a spun bearing
I put arp rod bolts and acl bearing my lsvtec and it spun smoother and i took it higher than the stock gsr I have now
LS/VTEC is a waste of money IMO when that $ could go toward a turbo kit. Or you could get some b16 pistons to up the compression and a good tune for the LS and be making some reliable power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS/VTEC is a waste of money IMO when that $ could go toward a turbo kit. Or you could get some b16 pistons to up the compression and a good tune for the LS and be making some reliable power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
then you obviously havent seen a powerful ls/vtec...230 whp in an integra NA can throw you into the 12's low low 13's...you wont see low 13's with 230 whp FI in that same integra..
then you obviously havent seen a powerful ls/vtec...230 whp in an integra NA can throw you into the 12's low low 13's...you wont see low 13's with 230 whp FI in that same integra..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo kit, turbo kit, turbo kit, turbo kit. Stroker kit is a waste of money for your setup, the JRSC is going to make 150whp (with bolt ons) and the ls/vtec just isnt going to compare $$$, performance or reliability wise to the turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Turbo
boost is better
edit...i know JRSC is boost...but nothing compared to a TURBO
Turbo
boost is better
edit...i know JRSC is boost...but nothing compared to a TURBO
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
then you obviously havent seen a powerful ls/vtec...230 whp in an integra NA can throw you into the 12's low low 13's...you wont see low 13's with 230 whp FI in that same integra..</TD></TR></TABLE>
true 230whp n/a is ALOT different than 230whp turbo
200whp+ on a built integra will get you mid 13s(if conditions are right/decent driving etc.)
imo, N/A if u got the cashhhh $$$$$(in this case ls-vtak)
BUT a turbo will give u pleasing #'s with a good setup and tune
tuning is key for everything, but trash the SC idea, the sc might own in the low end but once full boost hits on the turbo the torque curve or owns the SC
then you obviously havent seen a powerful ls/vtec...230 whp in an integra NA can throw you into the 12's low low 13's...you wont see low 13's with 230 whp FI in that same integra..</TD></TR></TABLE>
true 230whp n/a is ALOT different than 230whp turbo
200whp+ on a built integra will get you mid 13s(if conditions are right/decent driving etc.)
imo, N/A if u got the cashhhh $$$$$(in this case ls-vtak)
BUT a turbo will give u pleasing #'s with a good setup and tune
tuning is key for everything, but trash the SC idea, the sc might own in the low end but once full boost hits on the turbo the torque curve or owns the SC
A) Good luck getting a 230whp NA setup for the same price as a 230whp turbo setup.
B) All this "but NA it will run a 12 or 13 second 1/4 mile".....no, you're comparing the best of the NA cars (stripped with some of the best driving you'll see) to the generic "I suck *** at driving and had 4 subs in my hatch" turbo kit.
C) Apparently I've helped this thread get WAY THE HELL OF TOPIC, this guy isnt going to be putting down 230whp with his ls/vtec. Apparently I got a little off topic by suggesting a turbo and next thing you know he's suppose to build a $8000 NA race motor.....wtf??? Bolt on turbo.....NA race motor, somethings not equal there.
B) All this "but NA it will run a 12 or 13 second 1/4 mile".....no, you're comparing the best of the NA cars (stripped with some of the best driving you'll see) to the generic "I suck *** at driving and had 4 subs in my hatch" turbo kit.
C) Apparently I've helped this thread get WAY THE HELL OF TOPIC, this guy isnt going to be putting down 230whp with his ls/vtec. Apparently I got a little off topic by suggesting a turbo and next thing you know he's suppose to build a $8000 NA race motor.....wtf??? Bolt on turbo.....NA race motor, somethings not equal there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say go LS/VTEC, all motor is the way to go. If done correctly it will be a strong fun motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
even just a simple set up with pr3 pistons, a gsr head with valvetrain and some skunk2 stage2 cams will at most put you at $2k if you build it yourself with new rings, hone, headgasket and all the other little crap, and you will probably be making between 190-200whp which is a damn fun car to drive everyday
</TD></TR></TABLE>
even just a simple set up with pr3 pistons, a gsr head with valvetrain and some skunk2 stage2 cams will at most put you at $2k if you build it yourself with new rings, hone, headgasket and all the other little crap, and you will probably be making between 190-200whp which is a damn fun car to drive everyday
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