Hopefully quick easy question-

should the rear hub on a 95 teg ls spin freely?

I got a rear brake setup from a teg and am putting it on my civic. I noticed my civic's drum hub spun easier than the teg one. The teg one will not keep rotating after you give it a push

 

thinking about it, it should. you don't have the e-brakes on do you?

 

the trailing arm assembly is off the car, so no

It spins, it just doesnt stay spinning when I stop allpying a force.

Both of them spin equally as easily. How hard is it to replace the bearings, and would it be easier off the car or on the car?

 

rear bearing replacement is really easy. but you have to buy the hub assbly. Took ~30 minutes to do both rears.

the rears should not spin like they would with the tire on it, but shouldn't take a ton of effort to spin either.

easier spinning generally means more miles on the bearings.

But as long as the bearing spin smooth and quietly you should be ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But as long as the bearing spin smooth and quietly you should be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree. The rear bearings are just as easy to replace on or off the car as long as they come off completely. I have heard that a lot of them like to leave the inner bearing race behind when you use a puller tool. Getting the inner race off the spindle would then be quite tricky unless you really knew what you were doing...

Are the disc brake assemblies currently in place on the trailing arm? If the rotors & pads are corroded, they could cause some dragging when the hubs are spun. The resistance would be quite audible & obvious though...

 

the hub itsself with no brake rotor on it should spin quite freely. But i've noticed with a rotor and caliper on it it wont so much.

as far as i know, the hub and bearing come as one bolt-on unit in the rear...about $125 each for cars with abs, about $90 w/o. Hubs wear out too from heat, so i guess its not a bad idea to replace them both at the same time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the disc brake assemblies currently in place on the trailing arm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, they are still in the mail

The hubs do indeed spin quietly, and like I mentioned they both seem to spin using the same amount of force. Is there a way to test the torque needed to spin them and compare to limits for replacement?

I agree when you say they wont spin as easily bare, than compared to with the wheel mounted.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the hub itsself with no brake rotor on it should spin quite freely. But i've noticed with a rotor and caliper on it it wont so much.

as far as i know, the hub and bearing come as one bolt-on unit in the rear...about $125 each for cars with abs, about $90 w/o. Hubs wear out too from heat, so i guess its not a bad idea to replace them both at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the car was originally ABS, but I do not have ABS... do I need to buy the ABS hubs or could I save some money and get the non ABS?

Acuraautomotive online showed a ~$150 tag each for the ABS style.

 

Save your money & get the NON ABS hubs...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Save your money & get the NON ABS hubs...</TD></TR></TABLE>

awesome! I left me helms a few states away at a buddies house is this relatively easy to do?

 

I never tried it myself, but I do know you can rent a ratchet-operated press tool that will pull the hub off. I also tell you that the bearings are notorious for leaving the inner race behind on the spindle. If that happens, your going to be pretty pissed. There is a writeup I've seen where the inner race was notched with a cut-off wheel (maybe a dremel would work) & a 3-jaw puller was used to remove it.

You will also need a 32mm socket for your half-inch drive breaker bar to get the hub nut off. Make sure to soak the nut with PB blaster for a while & then try a jack-handle pipe on the end of your breaker bar to bust that bitch loose (heat can help too). Make sure to replace the hub nut with a new one. Auto-zone has all these parts & tools...

 

if you have no brake parts it's REALLY easy.
pull outer cover from hub
uncrimp the end of the nut on the spindle
remove nut
pull off hub/bearings
slip on the new hub/bearings
tighten nut
crimp nut
install cover

my EGs hub/bearings pulled off with little to no effort at all.
A GSR that I did shortly after that pulled off the same.
The fronts leave the race every time, but the rears didn't for me.

the hardest part are those little rotor holding screws but you said you don't have the brake parts...


94eg! - are you talking fronts or rears? the fronts follow what you're saying, but the rears (even in the helm) are not near as problematic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94eg! - are you talking fronts or rears? the fronts follow what you're saying, but the rears (even in the helm) are not near as problematic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was talking about the rears. I have read several old posts about the rear hubs leaving the inner race behind. If the whole thing just pops right off, then you are in good shape...

Tip: To get those two shitty rotor screws off, just hit the screwdriver with a hammer as your trying to turn it. The impacts will break the screw loose in no time. Don't hit too hard or you will break your screwdriver handle. There are special screw drivers made for this purpose with the steel shaft extending all the way out the back of the handle, but I have had much success with regular screwdrivers too...

 

this works well too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...46978