Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE
luckily i had a friend whoz a mechanic + owns 2001 ITR checked it up
mileage is 45000km. price $22g canadian. year 2000.
unbelievably clean inside out.
but still can never trust a used car 100%
1.is there ANY important things to look at when i get a Type R?
2.any common problems on ITR?
3. well its 6 years old.. warranty is gone.. could this be a big deal?
4. 45000kms... is this mileage still reliable..
ect ect~~~
pleaseee i need lots of replies from those who know things about ITR..
mileage is 45000km. price $22g canadian. year 2000.
unbelievably clean inside out.
but still can never trust a used car 100%
1.is there ANY important things to look at when i get a Type R?
2.any common problems on ITR?
3. well its 6 years old.. warranty is gone.. could this be a big deal?
4. 45000kms... is this mileage still reliable..
ect ect~~~
pleaseee i need lots of replies from those who know things about ITR..
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,959
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From: Buffalo, NY, USA
Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (ednyboo)
Maintenance records. Does the engine burn oil (smoking during VTEC while driving). All the VINS match. Engine code is B18C5. 5 lug suspension. No sunroof 
How much of it is stock, and how much is modified. Good luck and enjoy heR!!
How much of it is stock, and how much is modified. Good luck and enjoy heR!!
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Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (Doespike)
Did you run a Carfax prior to purchase?
DO the following:
Compression and leak-down check.
Check for fluid leaks.
Check for proper alignment of the body panels; no accidents I assume? Further more, look for over-spray in the wheel wells and in the door/hatch/hood jams...
Also, check wheel alignment.
Listen for strange sqeaks or creaks from abnormal locations...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doespike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maintenance records. Does the engine burn oil (smoking during VTEC while driving). All the VINS match. Engine code is B18C5. 5 lug suspension. No sunroof How much of it is stock, and how much is modified. Good luck and enjoy heR!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
All of this except most Vtec motors will burn some oil. As long as its not excessive then you're fine.
Records, records, records... Most R (or any car) owners SHOULD keep detailed records of all maintenance.
It better be MINT for that price.
DO the following:
Compression and leak-down check.
Check for fluid leaks.
Check for proper alignment of the body panels; no accidents I assume? Further more, look for over-spray in the wheel wells and in the door/hatch/hood jams...
Also, check wheel alignment.
Listen for strange sqeaks or creaks from abnormal locations...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doespike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maintenance records. Does the engine burn oil (smoking during VTEC while driving). All the VINS match. Engine code is B18C5. 5 lug suspension. No sunroof
How much of it is stock, and how much is modified. Good luck and enjoy heR!!</TD></TR></TABLE>All of this except most Vtec motors will burn some oil. As long as its not excessive then you're fine.
Records, records, records... Most R (or any car) owners SHOULD keep detailed records of all maintenance.
It better be MINT for that price.
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Posts: 23,478
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From: Chicago
Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (Circuit Star-29)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It better be MINT for that price.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the price is high by maybe $1500 or so (price is USD19,738 for a car with 28K miles). Especially since he's a friend.
I think the price is high by maybe $1500 or so (price is USD19,738 for a car with 28K miles). Especially since he's a friend.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think the price is high by maybe $1500 or so (price is USD19,738 for a car with 28K miles). Especially since he's a friend.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh i meant friend who has ITR checked another ITR out lol
and hmm honestly.. test drove/ inside out looks like brand newww car
looked cleaner than my s2k lol like literally brand new look
by the way~ thanks for the replies^^
hopes more ppl tell me more if there r some
I think the price is high by maybe $1500 or so (price is USD19,738 for a car with 28K miles). Especially since he's a friend.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh i meant friend who has ITR checked another ITR out lol
and hmm honestly.. test drove/ inside out looks like brand newww car
looked cleaner than my s2k lol like literally brand new look
by the way~ thanks for the replies^^
hopes more ppl tell me more if there r some
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,169
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From: Canada
Do what I did ...... bring it to your mechanic and have him check it top to bottom.
Then have him take it for a rip and go through the gears
- check for syncro noise
- listen for bad tranny bearings, especially the main throwout bearing (listen to the car idoling, then put the clutch in all the way, wait a second to see if you hear any noise go away, then bring the clutch back out and see if you hear a noise)
- drive in a circle and check for noise from the axels ... grinding, ect...
- throw it up on the hoist and check for play on the ball joints
- grab a pry bar and check for play on the upper ball joints
- spin the tires and check for wheel bearing noise - check to see how much life is left on the pads and rotors
- when you turn the car on, check to see if the engine light illuminates. Some people will disconnect the engine light because they're throwing a code.
- make sure all VIN's match and start with JH4DC2
- check for blue adhesive around the seal of the tranny to the block, or the head to the block. This will determine if the head has been taken off, or the tranny for some reason (could be a rebuild)
- Check all bulbs ... headlights, tail lights, brake lights, high beams, interior lights, check the dimmer on the dash lights, check turn signals both back and front. Check for moisture in headlights or tail lights.
- make sure the power antenna goes up and down freely when you turn the car on and off, and just the radio on and off
- check to see if the rear hatch lever works well and doesn't stick
- check tire wear, and look for un-even wear
- make sure all fluids are topped up, make sure clutch fluid is full
- make sure driver side lumbar works well. Make sure sliders on both front seats work well.
- open up the hatch, fold down the rear seats and then put them back in the upright position and check for broken latches while doing this.
- remove the trunk mat and check for a spare, jack, tire iron. Look for any corrosion or moisture due to a leaky tail light.
- Go into the passenger side front seat, on the floor, closest to the door, take off the plastic bump gaurd and check to see if he's running the stock ECU and it's not tapped or drilled.
- inspect the intake arm for a small circular hole anywhere on it ... this might indicate a nitrous feed.
- do a compression and leakdown test
- ask for service records and inquire to where maintenence was done ... contact the shop and ask questions about the car.
Thats all I can think of right now. And at 45000 KM's, that car is still a baby ... don't worry much about a warranty.
Then have him take it for a rip and go through the gears
- check for syncro noise
- listen for bad tranny bearings, especially the main throwout bearing (listen to the car idoling, then put the clutch in all the way, wait a second to see if you hear any noise go away, then bring the clutch back out and see if you hear a noise)
- drive in a circle and check for noise from the axels ... grinding, ect...
- throw it up on the hoist and check for play on the ball joints
- grab a pry bar and check for play on the upper ball joints
- spin the tires and check for wheel bearing noise - check to see how much life is left on the pads and rotors
- when you turn the car on, check to see if the engine light illuminates. Some people will disconnect the engine light because they're throwing a code.
- make sure all VIN's match and start with JH4DC2
- check for blue adhesive around the seal of the tranny to the block, or the head to the block. This will determine if the head has been taken off, or the tranny for some reason (could be a rebuild)
- Check all bulbs ... headlights, tail lights, brake lights, high beams, interior lights, check the dimmer on the dash lights, check turn signals both back and front. Check for moisture in headlights or tail lights.
- make sure the power antenna goes up and down freely when you turn the car on and off, and just the radio on and off
- check to see if the rear hatch lever works well and doesn't stick
- check tire wear, and look for un-even wear
- make sure all fluids are topped up, make sure clutch fluid is full
- make sure driver side lumbar works well. Make sure sliders on both front seats work well.
- open up the hatch, fold down the rear seats and then put them back in the upright position and check for broken latches while doing this.
- remove the trunk mat and check for a spare, jack, tire iron. Look for any corrosion or moisture due to a leaky tail light.
- Go into the passenger side front seat, on the floor, closest to the door, take off the plastic bump gaurd and check to see if he's running the stock ECU and it's not tapped or drilled.
- inspect the intake arm for a small circular hole anywhere on it ... this might indicate a nitrous feed.
- do a compression and leakdown test
- ask for service records and inquire to where maintenence was done ... contact the shop and ask questions about the car.
Thats all I can think of right now. And at 45000 KM's, that car is still a baby ... don't worry much about a warranty.
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Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh i meant friend who has ITR checked another ITR out lol
and hmm honestly.. test drove/ inside out looks like brand newww car
looked cleaner than my s2k lol like literally brand new look</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then go for it.
and hmm honestly.. test drove/ inside out looks like brand newww car
looked cleaner than my s2k lol like literally brand new look</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then go for it.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,688
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From: USA
Re: (98 ITR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do what I did ...... bring it to your mechanic and have him check it top to bottom.
Then have him take it for a rip and go through the gears
- check for syncro noise
- listen for bad tranny bearings, especially the main throwout bearing (listen to the car idoling, then put the clutch in all the way, wait a second to see if you hear any noise go away, then bring the clutch back out and see if you hear a noise)
- drive in a circle and check for noise from the axels ... grinding, ect...
- throw it up on the hoist and check for play on the ball joints
- grab a pry bar and check for play on the upper ball joints
- spin the tires and check for wheel bearing noise - check to see how much life is left on the pads and rotors
- when you turn the car on, check to see if the engine light illuminates. Some people will disconnect the engine light because they're throwing a code.
- make sure all VIN's match and start with JH4DC2
- check for blue adhesive around the seal of the tranny to the block, or the head to the block. This will determine if the head has been taken off, or the tranny for some reason (could be a rebuild)
- Check all bulbs ... headlights, tail lights, brake lights, high beams, interior lights, check the dimmer on the dash lights, check turn signals both back and front. Check for moisture in headlights or tail lights.
- make sure the power antenna goes up and down freely when you turn the car on and off, and just the radio on and off
- check to see if the rear hatch lever works well and doesn't stick
- check tire wear, and look for un-even wear
- make sure all fluids are topped up, make sure clutch fluid is full
- make sure driver side lumbar works well. Make sure sliders on both front seats work well.
- open up the hatch, fold down the rear seats and then put them back in the upright position and check for broken latches while doing this.
- remove the trunk mat and check for a spare, jack, tire iron. Look for any corrosion or moisture due to a leaky tail light.
- Go into the passenger side front seat, on the floor, closest to the door, take off the plastic bump gaurd and check to see if he's running the stock ECU and it's not tapped or drilled.
- inspect the intake arm for a small circular hole anywhere on it ... this might indicate a nitrous feed.
- do a compression and leakdown test
- ask for service records and inquire to where maintenence was done ... contact the shop and ask questions about the car.
Thats all I can think of right now. And at 45000 KM's, that car is still a baby ... don't worry much about a warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW this is the perfect list for anyone looking to buy a used car
Then have him take it for a rip and go through the gears
- check for syncro noise
- listen for bad tranny bearings, especially the main throwout bearing (listen to the car idoling, then put the clutch in all the way, wait a second to see if you hear any noise go away, then bring the clutch back out and see if you hear a noise)
- drive in a circle and check for noise from the axels ... grinding, ect...
- throw it up on the hoist and check for play on the ball joints
- grab a pry bar and check for play on the upper ball joints
- spin the tires and check for wheel bearing noise - check to see how much life is left on the pads and rotors
- when you turn the car on, check to see if the engine light illuminates. Some people will disconnect the engine light because they're throwing a code.
- make sure all VIN's match and start with JH4DC2
- check for blue adhesive around the seal of the tranny to the block, or the head to the block. This will determine if the head has been taken off, or the tranny for some reason (could be a rebuild)
- Check all bulbs ... headlights, tail lights, brake lights, high beams, interior lights, check the dimmer on the dash lights, check turn signals both back and front. Check for moisture in headlights or tail lights.
- make sure the power antenna goes up and down freely when you turn the car on and off, and just the radio on and off
- check to see if the rear hatch lever works well and doesn't stick
- check tire wear, and look for un-even wear
- make sure all fluids are topped up, make sure clutch fluid is full
- make sure driver side lumbar works well. Make sure sliders on both front seats work well.
- open up the hatch, fold down the rear seats and then put them back in the upright position and check for broken latches while doing this.
- remove the trunk mat and check for a spare, jack, tire iron. Look for any corrosion or moisture due to a leaky tail light.
- Go into the passenger side front seat, on the floor, closest to the door, take off the plastic bump gaurd and check to see if he's running the stock ECU and it's not tapped or drilled.
- inspect the intake arm for a small circular hole anywhere on it ... this might indicate a nitrous feed.
- do a compression and leakdown test
- ask for service records and inquire to where maintenence was done ... contact the shop and ask questions about the car.
Thats all I can think of right now. And at 45000 KM's, that car is still a baby ... don't worry much about a warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW this is the perfect list for anyone looking to buy a used car
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 497
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Re:
hmm...
just opinions one this tho...
year 2000 ITR 45k km is $22000 ..
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?
just wanna know what u guys think
the only thing i know for sure is i know ITR is much more fun to drive than a dc5
just opinions one this tho...
year 2000 ITR 45k km is $22000 ..
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?
just wanna know what u guys think
the only thing i know for sure is i know ITR is much more fun to drive than a dc5
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 11,470
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From: Yokohama, Japan
Re: Re: (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is the car going to be a daily driver?
If so, I would get the DC5.
Is the car going to be a daily driver?
If so, I would get the DC5.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 23,478
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From: Chicago
Re: Re: (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">year 2000 ITR 45k km is $22000 ..
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get whichever one you want to be living with.
If you want a cushier car, and/or if you want the comfort of a new-car warranty, get the RSX-S.
If you want a raw car made for the racetrack, and/or if you want the car that is likely to lose less value over the next few years, get the ITR.
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get whichever one you want to be living with.
If you want a cushier car, and/or if you want the comfort of a new-car warranty, get the RSX-S.
If you want a raw car made for the racetrack, and/or if you want the car that is likely to lose less value over the next few years, get the ITR.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369
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From: University of Civics and Integra, CA
Re: Getting a Type R Tmr.. NEED A LOT OF COMMENTS PLEASEEEE (ednyboo)
are you keeping your S2K and get the ITR as an extra car? if so, go for it. Use the S2k as daily drive, and ITR as occasional mover/track car. Yes I mean mover . But I would also look into a similar mileage RSX-S too. personally i like DC5's look more. Work on the suspension, add JDM brembos and u are golden for track.
. But I would also look into a similar mileage RSX-S too. personally i like DC5's look more. Work on the suspension, add JDM brembos and u are golden for track.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Re: Re: (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm...
just opinions one this tho...
year 2000 ITR 45k km is $22000 ..
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?
just wanna know what u guys think
the only thing i know for sure is i know ITR is much more fun to drive than a dc5 </TD></TR></TABLE>
I own both cars ... 98 ITR and 05 Type S.
Do you have any specific questions or comparisons???
just opinions one this tho...
year 2000 ITR 45k km is $22000 ..
but 2006 type-S maybe 10000km is like $29000
would it be still worth it to get the ITR over type-S?
just wanna know what u guys think
the only thing i know for sure is i know ITR is much more fun to drive than a dc5
</TD></TR></TABLE>I own both cars ... 98 ITR and 05 Type S.
Do you have any specific questions or comparisons???
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 497
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Re: (98 ITR)
no actually not really..
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
cool guy name
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,873
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From: not walker111 do a search hoes
Re: Re: (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no actually not really..
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My 16 year old Honda is more reliable then some brand new cars! You will not have to worry about reliability issues in a properly maintained integra.
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My 16 year old Honda is more reliable then some brand new cars! You will not have to worry about reliability issues in a properly maintained integra.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: seatown, but canadian, eh
Re: Re: (walker111)
any details on who the owner is? might be able to find out on here, lots of TO owners are on h-t. you can find out a bunch about the history of the car if you're so lucky.
for mine, i know the guy never tracked it and only ever installed an intake (and needed help with that to boot, haha)
if you know the number on the badge a quick search may turn it up.
GL and keep her safe in toronto. make sure that bish has an alarm and a garage!
for mine, i know the guy never tracked it and only ever installed an intake (and needed help with that to boot, haha)
if you know the number on the badge a quick search may turn it up.
GL and keep her safe in toronto. make sure that bish has an alarm and a garage!
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 6,173
Likes: 0
Re: Re: (ednyboo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ednyboo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no actually not really..
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're talking about a Honda with 28K miles on it, I'm not sure what you'd be concerned about. I'd be more concerned about using complete sentences when asking for serious advice.
i know K20s are reliable..well its newer and easy tuner compared to b series
all that ect ect
personally i like Dc2 better so i decided to go for it
but the only thing im worried about is reliability....
obviously Dc2 is 6 years old... and Dc5 is 1 year old..
thats the only thing im concerned
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're talking about a Honda with 28K miles on it, I'm not sure what you'd be concerned about. I'd be more concerned about using complete sentences when asking for serious advice.
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Posts: n/a
I used to own a 2002 Acura RSX-S....
the handling blows, the brakes blow, everybody and their grandma drives one... and its not even as HALF as FUN to drive as a RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR...
Sure, with mods like K-Pro, JRH/cams, etc you can make some serious power..and with exterior mods... but same goes for the ITR
the handling blows, the brakes blow, everybody and their grandma drives one... and its not even as HALF as FUN to drive as a RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR...
Sure, with mods like K-Pro, JRH/cams, etc you can make some serious power..and with exterior mods... but same goes for the ITR
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Posts: 1,149
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From: Toronto, On, Canada
Re: (itr1244)
who's the owner (don;t worry i have a 98 i won;t buy it lol)?
I bought my 98 over a Type S. The S felt meh, i dunno boring. The R is fun to drive and was way over 10gs cheaper
Don;t worry about reliability, mine is knocking on 160,000km. No problems, no rattles, no weird noises. Runs great, and i drive it year round
I bought my 98 over a Type S. The S felt meh, i dunno boring. The R is fun to drive and was way over 10gs cheaper
Don;t worry about reliability, mine is knocking on 160,000km. No problems, no rattles, no weird noises. Runs great, and i drive it year round
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Re: (penpen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by penpen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any details on who the owner is? might be able to find out on here, lots of TO owners are on h-t. you can find out a bunch about the history of the car if you're so lucky.
for mine, i know the guy never tracked it and only ever installed an intake (and needed help with that to boot, haha)
if you know the number on the badge a quick search may turn it up.
GL and keep her safe in toronto. make sure that bish has an alarm and a garage!</TD></TR></TABLE>
all i know is hmm.. first owner was an asian.. flew to asia.. sold the car
-_-;; and the current owner is an Italian guy...
lol
+_+ i read the badge today but forgot the number on it
for mine, i know the guy never tracked it and only ever installed an intake (and needed help with that to boot, haha)
if you know the number on the badge a quick search may turn it up.
GL and keep her safe in toronto. make sure that bish has an alarm and a garage!</TD></TR></TABLE>
all i know is hmm.. first owner was an asian.. flew to asia.. sold the car
-_-;; and the current owner is an Italian guy...
lol
+_+ i read the badge today but forgot the number on it
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 497
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: (itr1244)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heh. this is my buddy
we went there to check the R out with him and the car's cleaner than my car.
all stock
has few door dings
car was stored for few years by 1st owner..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wasssup hyung
i took it to a mechanic today..
well all the vins matched.. couldnt find the vin on the engine?
lifted up.. checked all those list things that gentle man typed out for me
and i think im really getting it
mechanic said all good.. but i asked if the 45000km could be a false mileage
he said he'd never know but with the condition like that
it seems like it.. +_+
paid 50 bucks deposit today lolz..
we went there to check the R out with him and the car's cleaner than my car.
all stock
has few door dings
car was stored for few years by 1st owner..
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wasssup hyung
i took it to a mechanic today..
well all the vins matched.. couldnt find the vin on the engine?
lifted up.. checked all those list things that gentle man typed out for me
and i think im really getting it
mechanic said all good.. but i asked if the 45000km could be a false mileage
he said he'd never know but with the condition like that
it seems like it.. +_+
paid 50 bucks deposit today lolz..