ok. i just did a rear gsr brakes conversion for my 96 hatch and i ran out of brake cleaner so my friend sprayed some wd40 on both my rear rotors. i didn't even know it until i put my wheels back on and saw the rotors being wet. i asked him and he said he sprayed wd40. can this cause any problems????? seems like my brakes aren't working properly also. i have to press harder for my car to brake. i bleed the whole brake system twice though and it's not even as good as my stock drums. oh yea...i'm using old brake pads and the rotors aren't resurface...i'm trying the braking method to try to get the rust out. any help??

so to my questions...

-wd40..a problem? yes or no
-didn't resurface and didn't buy new pads...cause braking problems? yes or no

 

get new pads

rebleed the system

and get that wd40 off, they wont stop you if they are lubricated

 

did you upgrade your mc?
if not then your pedal wont be quite the same.....

 

The MC applies to LX and lower trim levels only that I am aware of, I have a 00 EX and the MC part is the same as the Si, you might wanna check your master cylinder part number too, it wont be a problem, just you will have further pedal travel, but lockup should be just as tight.

and for a reference, never use any type of penetrant or lube to clean a friction surface. only brake cleaner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you upgrade your mc?
if not then your pedal wont be quite the same.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i haven't upgrade my MC, and will a gsr MC work on my ek? or do i have to get one from an Ex/Si? i have also heard that you can move the lever on the brake pedal..is this true?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and for a reference, never use any type of penetrant or lube to clean a friction surface. only brake cleaner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea that was a dumb move on him. i just got my rotors resurfaced and got new pads..i'll try them on and see what happens first before i start lookin into MC's.

 

the wd40 will burn off fast, drive it slow and ride the brakes around your block, should be burned away by then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strictly.business &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wd40 will burn off fast, drive it slow and ride the brakes around your block, should be burned away by then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea it all burned off, but it was pretty soaked with wd40 when i drove with it. hopefully i didn't warp anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblue_gzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i haven't upgrade my MC, and will a gsr MC work on my ek? or do i have to get one from an Ex/Si? i have also heard that you can move the lever on the brake pedal..is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone know?

 

go and change the pads and rotors, if you bleed the system twice i wouldn't worry about it. also, never ever let your friend touch you car again, since he doesn't know WTF he's doing. also, don't be cheap either, brake cleaner is only a $1, with that being said, go pick some up and wash off the WD-40.

 

ok, i put on my resurface rotors and new brake pads. it's still not braking like my stock drums...i think it's time for a MC.

 

if the booster is the same as the 92-95 civics, upgrade to the 15/16 M/C found on the 91 civic ex.

also, did you change the portionvalve?

 

no, it's still a stock dx pv. i'm gonna have to look into MC, brake booster, and pv.

 

Just get the prop. valve... the master cyl. isn't that big a deal...

The prop valve stops as much fluid from going to the back on a rear drum setup..

Once you put the proper prop. valve on it will be fine...

Also WHY IN GODS NAME is ANYONE suggesting he re-bleed his calipers???

Spraying freakin acid on the rotors isn't going to make you need to rebleed...

Also cutting the rotors wasn't neccisary... as mentioned the WD40 would've just burnt off in a matter of miles.


ALSO

Yes you can adjust the brake pedal height... I think that's what you're asking about..

It's a pain in the *** though... there's an adjuster nut coming off the rod from the booster to the brake pedal.. .you just loosen or tighten the adjuster nut to get the rod to travel out or in...

If you do it too far the brakes will essentiall always be on a little... too little and you won't get max. assist from the booster...

It's pretty straight forward though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strictly.business &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wd40 will burn off fast, drive it slow and ride the brakes around your block, should be burned away by then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty much. you just gotta just ride the **** out of the brakes. if it's the rear, just drive around for a while with the e-brake on. that's what I did.

 

Don't worry about the Booster. You can't use the GSR M/C unless you want to change the hardlines to the M/C.

I would get the proportioning valve and the M/C from an Si, or just get the M/C from the EX.
I've got an SI M/C for sale and an EX proportiong valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnecon2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've got an SI M/C for sale and an EX proportiong valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much for the ex prop valve? shipped to 95828

 

get the M/C from the EX. For some reason i had 3 gsr mc/bb, bleed the crap out of them still no luck. I had found out that it was the piston length was diffent. So i used the ex one or si will work

 

Just get a 40/40 prop valve form the junkyard.