just want to hear all the things that I need to do like how do I adjust the clutch once I install it what do I need to do I have never done a clutch before but there is no way I will pay a shop to install it for me! please all comments will help thanks
its a 88-91 civic clutch master stage 1 with a 11.5lb flywheel if that helps

 

How much is a shop charging you? And do you have a Helms manual for your car?

 

300-400 i think for the install and No i dont have a manual Im not to sure witch one to buy because I have a ZC engine! do i just go to autozone and buy a honda book? for the year of my car


[Modified by -=TWITCH=-, 8:46 AM 4/26/2002]

 

Take the radius arm on the trans side out. You can get the trans out without doing that, but it is much more difficult. Personnally, I've found the easiest way to do a tranny is to take the rad out, the front bumper off, and the rad support out. It sounds like extra work, but it takes about 5 minutes to do all of that (at the most). It makes it so much easier to reach everything, and you can turn wrenches so much farther that way. You don't even have to drain the rad, just set it on top of the motor (mine is a zc, so the top hose may not reach on a A6). Also removing the dist helps to reach some of the bolts easier.

Anyway, the clutch adjustment is all in the cable. Personally I recommend getting a new spring for the release bearing. I just finished my trans and had to take it back out after the first time I pushed the clutch and the spring broke. I didn't even get to move the car from the garage. It was my fault because I didn't make sure that the release fork for the bearing was under the spring. Look close and make sure you have the fork against the bearing with the spring behind it!

Make sure you tighten the flywheel to proper specs. That is VERY important. Don't go by what feels right. People get away with it all of the time, but do it right so you do have to do it again. Same goes with the pressure plate bolts. Go around and tighten each one just a few turns so you don't warp or bend it.

Tools you'll need or would be useful....

Rachet and 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 32mm (i think) sockets and various extensions.
Socket 17mm deep well for radius arm.
Box/Open end wrenches 12, 14, 17 mm
6mm punch for shift pin.
Jack and Jack stands
Typical screw drivers
Torque wrench.

 

Unreal! I'll do it for $25 less than their lowest offer.

 

Do you know the torque sprcs for all the stuff!

 

ttt

 

flywheel is 89lbs / bolt clutch plate is 19lbs / bolt. pull out starter, air box, unplug wire harness (in some sports like dizzy etc for room) 32mm impact socket for those stuck the **** on axle nuts. pull passanger side axle (requires basicly a pad change on the breaks just to get the calipar off the rotor)(less **** in the way), seperate drivers side from trans (dont have to remove tho). theres a radius rod on passenger side that makes a tight squeeze for things (dont have to remove). you and a friend = no prob. make sure than friend can lift 80lbs for a while
if you have probs call me i'll be around till about 9 central time then its off to kill ricers.
-AL

i believe those torque specs are correct however i'l double check after work (6 ish). impact tools help a ton. raise car up evenly on all 4 corners, levals **** of and letf you slide under (you negative lift homos )


[Modified by TorteX, 1:28 PM 4/26/2002]

 

you need trans fluid too (10w30 oil) beer bong the **** in the trans once its put back together

 

dont use 10w30.. **** sucks. buy honda fluid.. taking out the tranny is hella easy.. just common sense...