when installing new rear trailing arm bushings...?
hey all,
im installing some new bushings in my rear trailing arms..
(88 civic dx hatch)
well, i have the old bushings completely out.. and i just realized on the energy suspension instructions that it said to note which way the cross pin goes because its offset.....
yeah, i forgot to do that..
how do u tell which way it goes in?
tia.
im installing some new bushings in my rear trailing arms..
(88 civic dx hatch)
well, i have the old bushings completely out.. and i just realized on the energy suspension instructions that it said to note which way the cross pin goes because its offset.....
yeah, i forgot to do that..

how do u tell which way it goes in?
tia.
i dont know what you mean... are talking about the pin that holds the arm to chasis? btw is this hard to do? how much time...any special tools? im doing this this weekend.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 5
From: I told you to wait in the truck in Texas, United States
Wes V's write-up on the subject:
http://www.performanceforum.co....html
http://www.performanceforum.co....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wes V's write-up on the subject:
http://www.performanceforum.co....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a great tool....read this.
http://www.performanceforum.co....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a great tool....read this.
Guys, thanks for the link to my page, but he is installing urethane bushings, not factory type ones.
As for his question; I'd recommend he just go to a junk yard and look a similar car.
Wes V
As for his question; I'd recommend he just go to a junk yard and look a similar car.
Wes V
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys, thanks for the link to my page, but he is installing urethane bushings, not factory type ones.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct.
wes v, that is a great article you have put together, it was very informative.
however, i think i have figured out the answer to my own question..
ill post again, after i am sure.
thanks yall.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct.
wes v, that is a great article you have put together, it was very informative.
however, i think i have figured out the answer to my own question..
ill post again, after i am sure.
thanks yall.
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little off the topic but the ES rear trailing arm bushing is not very good, it only allows for motion one way, where the stock allows motion in all direction. I've used the ES and my rear end gets very unstable over bumps at high speeds. keep with oem. my 2cents.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">little off the topic but the ES rear trailing arm bushing is not very good, it only allows for motion one way, where the stock allows motion in all direction. I've used the ES and my rear end gets very unstable over bumps at high speeds. keep with oem. my 2cents. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like you may have other issues...I've obviously got ES bushings and have nothing but good things to say about them. I've had mine on for about a year now, not only that I'm pretty harsh on my driving...Cheers
Modified by EFSS#17 at 5:55 PM 8/21/2006
Sounds like you may have other issues...I've obviously got ES bushings and have nothing but good things to say about them. I've had mine on for about a year now, not only that I'm pretty harsh on my driving...Cheers
Modified by EFSS#17 at 5:55 PM 8/21/2006
i have all es bushings, they are great- except the RTA bushing. If you search on this bushing you can read about the same problem which i stated. think about the flexibility, it's solid poly. not bashing the es, just that one bushing.
ok, well i got the pin in there the way its supposed to be.
for those of u that are unfamiliar with what im talking about... the pin or the long metal thing that goes through the bushing. it is offset.. one end has a slotted hole, while the other has a circular hole.
the slotted hole goes towards the outside of the car, and the circular hole goes towards the inside of the car.
as for these problems you guys are having with the ES bushings.. what are the symptoms? what issues has this caused with the car?
on another note...
which prop valve should i get?
my setup so far includes on my 88dx.
stock brakes up front, w/ ss lines and slotted rotors.
rears are DA w/ ss lines. new blank rotors.
should i get a 40/40 or a 35/40? or what? what are the differences in these?
for those of u that are unfamiliar with what im talking about... the pin or the long metal thing that goes through the bushing. it is offset.. one end has a slotted hole, while the other has a circular hole.
the slotted hole goes towards the outside of the car, and the circular hole goes towards the inside of the car.
as for these problems you guys are having with the ES bushings.. what are the symptoms? what issues has this caused with the car?
on another note...
which prop valve should i get?
my setup so far includes on my 88dx.
stock brakes up front, w/ ss lines and slotted rotors.
rears are DA w/ ss lines. new blank rotors.
should i get a 40/40 or a 35/40? or what? what are the differences in these?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as for these problems you guys are having with the ES bushings.. what are the symptoms? what issues has this caused with the car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard a good reason on why someone should not run these bushings. Some people have claimed it limits a needed movement in the rear suspension action, but mine have been installed for two years which has been 35k miles with no issues, no squeaks etc. Until I hear a engineer come up with a good reason why one should not run these bushings I dismiss all comments that say not to.
as for these problems you guys are having with the ES bushings.. what are the symptoms? what issues has this caused with the car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard a good reason on why someone should not run these bushings. Some people have claimed it limits a needed movement in the rear suspension action, but mine have been installed for two years which has been 35k miles with no issues, no squeaks etc. Until I hear a engineer come up with a good reason why one should not run these bushings I dismiss all comments that say not to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
on another note...
which prop valve should i get?
my setup so far includes on my 88dx.
stock brakes up front, w/ ss lines and slotted rotors.
rears are DA w/ ss lines. new blank rotors.
should i get a 40/40 or a 35/40? or what? what are the differences in these?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK I've done quite a bit of search and researching myself on what your doing. I have an EX 4door, which means I have the bigger brakes up front, 10.5" to be exact. I swapped my rear drums for the DA rotors. Currently I see no difference in how the car slows down(I have the 40/35 prop valve)...even with harsh braking and slowing, everything clamps down nicely.
Since you have everything removed, it wouldn't hurt to use the DA prop valve, and you could probably get away with using your stock one, too that's if you have the EX model, otherwise it may be best to upgrade to DA IMO. Junkyards are giving them away for about 10-20 bux.unless you wanna go with a joker selling here on H-T for 35-40...Its your decision. Good luck.
on another note...
which prop valve should i get?
my setup so far includes on my 88dx.
stock brakes up front, w/ ss lines and slotted rotors.
rears are DA w/ ss lines. new blank rotors.
should i get a 40/40 or a 35/40? or what? what are the differences in these?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK I've done quite a bit of search and researching myself on what your doing. I have an EX 4door, which means I have the bigger brakes up front, 10.5" to be exact. I swapped my rear drums for the DA rotors. Currently I see no difference in how the car slows down(I have the 40/35 prop valve)...even with harsh braking and slowing, everything clamps down nicely.
Since you have everything removed, it wouldn't hurt to use the DA prop valve, and you could probably get away with using your stock one, too that's if you have the EX model, otherwise it may be best to upgrade to DA IMO. Junkyards are giving them away for about 10-20 bux.unless you wanna go with a joker selling here on H-T for 35-40...Its your decision. Good luck.
Before I forget...your Master Cylinder...your gonna want to replace that too. I'm not not sure which model you have but to get everything working in sync...you will want the bigger MC which is the 15/16ths(can be found on the EX sedan and DA, possibly an SI, too) not the dinkier one thats on the std, dx and lx. There should be write ups on this, too. In fact I think Wes V. did one.
oh, yeah, i have the 88dx.
so the 15/16MC and matching prop.
do i have to get one from a DA? the newer 99-00 si's wont work will it?
so the 15/16MC and matching prop.
do i have to get one from a DA? the newer 99-00 si's wont work will it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, yeah, i have the 88dx. <FONT COLOR="red">cool cool</FONT>
so the 15/16MC and matching prop.<FONT COLOR="red"> def. yes. </FONT>
do i have to get one from a DA? <FONT COLOR="red">A DA or EX 4door and I'm thinking an SI hatch, too since it has rear rotors. If your lucky yank the sway bar from it, too. It will add hella grip to your 4 door.</FONT>
the newer 99-00 si's wont work will it?<FONT COLOR="red">This I do not know, you may want to ask Honda or Acura parts dealers or try and research that</FONT>
<FONT COLOR="red">Good Luck Bro</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>
SEE ABOVE FOR REPLY, IN BOLD AND IN <FONT COLOR="red">RED</FONT>
so the 15/16MC and matching prop.<FONT COLOR="red"> def. yes. </FONT>
do i have to get one from a DA? <FONT COLOR="red">A DA or EX 4door and I'm thinking an SI hatch, too since it has rear rotors. If your lucky yank the sway bar from it, too. It will add hella grip to your 4 door.</FONT>
the newer 99-00 si's wont work will it?<FONT COLOR="red">This I do not know, you may want to ask Honda or Acura parts dealers or try and research that</FONT>
<FONT COLOR="red">Good Luck Bro</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>
SEE ABOVE FOR REPLY, IN BOLD AND IN <FONT COLOR="red">RED</FONT>
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