I need some quick disconnect options.

I would like to be able to remove the amp and speakers out of the boat without tools. I know some of you installers have come across this problem before.

I have 4 speaker wires, remote, and two 8 guage power and ground connections.

Thanks in advance.

 

Can you not bring tools on the boat? Is the amplifier and speakers mounted onto something?

 

tell me how you have everything mounted. I sure I could figure something out quick

 

I can bring tools on the boat. Its more of a convienence thing.

I have this boat http://www.reinell.com/Reinell-203LS.html
I have two 12's and 2 6.5's and 2 6X9's. I bought a kicker kx700.5

The battery is behind the rear seat on the right side. I have a sub on each side under the rear seats. The amp is bolted on sub box on the right side. I would like 1 or 2 connector that I can just unplug when I want to take the speakers in and out.

 

I use trailer connectors when I want quick release, here are 1,000,000 or so places the sell "quick release electrical connectors"... http://www.google.com/search?s...ctors 94

 

http://www.delcity.net/delcity...age=1

and maybe somehting like this:

http://www.walcottcb.com/tp8-g....html

 

you can always go to the junkyard and run around and find lots of two wire conectors.. and just grab both sides..

maybe use thumb screws to hold the speakers in place

 

Since I am not an installer I was hoping some of the installers have come up with a slick solution already. Installing is only a hobbie for me, engineering you a faster computer is where I spend my time

Thanks Rcurley thats not a bad option.

Would like to cut it down to 2 cables if possible.

Power ground -> one cable
4 speakers and remote -> second cable

 

molexes... (speakers, remo, signal, etc)

5 channel amp.....

assuming u use all channels

1 - heavyduty/trailor connection (2-pin) for power/ground
1 - 15-pin molex

Molex Pin out: (can modify)
01 - Front Left Speaker Out (+)
02 - Front Left Speaker Out (-)
03 - Front Right Speaker Out (+)
04 - Front Right Speaker Out (-)
05 - Rear Left Spekaer Out (+)
06 - Rear Left Spekaer Out (-)
07 - Rear Right Speaker Out (+)
08 - Rear Right Speaker Out (-)
09 - Front Left IN
10 - Front Right IN
11 - Rear Left IN
12 - Rear Right IN
13 - Sub IN (convert with rca Y adapter)
14 - Common Ground
15 - Remote Lead

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...2-566

should do the trick...

attaching ur amps to ur sub box would be a good thing too... make it easy to carry out of ur boat... one piece of expensive hardware...

on the full range speakers.. I don't think its worth the hassle of removing those.... cause they should be hidden behind "stock" looking enclosures.. so nobody would know..

just take the expensive stuff home, subs/amp

-------------
RCA Detials:
RCA signals can share a common ground... so u just have to separate the signals not the grounds...

The sub is a mono channel, and doesn't need both L/R inputs, so just combine them into one pin and split them up again if u want..

you may get some noise considering how close everything is... but a small price to pay for easy connections...

 

I think I am going to try thy the 8 guage cable Rcurley suggested.

And maybe the Molex connector. I had no intention of doing the RCA's but the molex connector option looks like a good idea.

I only intend to remove the subs and amp. Little speakers can stay in the boat.

Good ideas

 

You can also split it into 2 8-pin molexes if u think ur going to get excessive noise....

one molex for speakers, and one for the rcas and remote lead...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If u don't do the rca's thats like 6 more things to dissconnect...

I thought you only wanted to have 2 wires to dissconnect...


Modified by bpr0422 at 7:35 PM 8/22/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can also split it into 2 8-pin molexes if u think ur going to get excessive noise....

one molex for speakers, and one for the rcas and remote lead...
Modified by bpr0422 at 7:35 PM 8/22/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

There would have to be a reason for noise to get in that setup. I dont see that happening.

 

take pics of the molex connector!!!!

i have a feeling the connector is going to be dwarfed by the amount and size of the wires running to it

 

I use these for when I want quick disconnect



They are fairly cheap, and they also make them for larger gauges

http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLi...9.pdf

Just something to consider sounds like an interesting project

 

I went with this

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...2-566

and this
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...3-110

Total $27.17 kinda spendy for some connectrors.

 

Be weary of those molex connectors . They have a tendency to lose connection with time/removal install/vibration. Basically the female pins start to spread out. We use them all the time at work and I personally can't stand them. Cannon plugs work much better (solid contact, reliable, and can be waterproof).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dplatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be weary of those molex connectors . They have a tendency to lose connection with time/removal install/vibration. Basically the female pins start to spread out. We use them all the time at work and I personally can't stand them. Cannon plugs work much better (solid contact, reliable, and can be waterproof).</TD></TR></TABLE>

All plugs wear out over time.

 

*Update*

So I finished this today. I would highly recommend the DC connector I chose for anyone looking for a quick disconnect on the power wire. Its very well made and has good surface area for current flow.

The molex connector will work but seems a little fragile for repeated use. I will see how it goes. I used hot glue to provide strain relief on the center conductor of the RCA.

I was able to get all my wires connected including the sub.

The front speakers shared a +/-
So the front looked like this

+ left front
- right front

- left front shared speaker ground for fronts.

Will post pictures soon.

 

i would use a stock honda radio connector since i have them sitting around. then for amp power and ground i would use the same connector used on ups backups and forklift charging systems.

 

 

Was it difficult wiring the Molex connector? I was told by a car audio installer that you need a $120 tool to hook those up.

That 8g quick disconnect looks cool, I might give that a shot because I want to be able to conveniently pull my amp and sub out of the car for track days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was it difficult wiring the Molex connector? I was told by a car audio installer that you need a $120 tool to hook those up.

That 8g quick disconnect looks cool, I might give that a shot because I want to be able to conveniently pull my amp and sub out of the car for track days.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I used a pair of needle nose pliers to crimp all the connection took about 10min per side. I then soldered all the connections before I inserted them into the connector.

Today was the first time I used it out on the water and it worked great. Excellent time saver and it just makes connecting and disconnecting so much easier. Two plugs and nothing more to connect. Doesn't get any easier then that.

If you use the DC plug I used the stove to solder the wire in. Just laid the connector across a burner while the wire was inserted then just filled it in with solder. I hate crimps they always come apart.

They also have a 4 Guage version if you need to use a bigger wire.