B18c vs. B18b Turbo?
ok guys please bare with me im new to this and this has probably discussed a million times before but here goes........
im planning on building a turbo charged honda motor i already obtained a P&P b16 head with ctr valve train and now i need to make a decision on a bottom end to mate with it now im all about reliabilty but i want to make great power and torque
but i dont want to have to rebuild my motor every 30k miles now i plan to go forged internals also using a block gaurd cant afford sleeves right now..ive read that because gsr blocks have a better rod ratio and they have oil squiters and the girdle they 1. can rev higher than the ls 2. they're more reliable...now my question is if i install a forged rotating assembly in my ls cant i rev it as high as the gsr and how does not having any oil squirters affect reliability......another question can a ls rotating assembly fit a gsr block is it a direct bolt in......in terms of what the car will be used for i mean i definately want it to be a daily driver that i can drag race on weekend with and just take it out on a long country road and just put your foot down for some nice cross country sprints my motor should withstand all of this and still purr like a kitten....what can i do.......?
im planning on building a turbo charged honda motor i already obtained a P&P b16 head with ctr valve train and now i need to make a decision on a bottom end to mate with it now im all about reliabilty but i want to make great power and torque
but i dont want to have to rebuild my motor every 30k miles now i plan to go forged internals also using a block gaurd cant afford sleeves right now..ive read that because gsr blocks have a better rod ratio and they have oil squiters and the girdle they 1. can rev higher than the ls 2. they're more reliable...now my question is if i install a forged rotating assembly in my ls cant i rev it as high as the gsr and how does not having any oil squirters affect reliability......another question can a ls rotating assembly fit a gsr block is it a direct bolt in......in terms of what the car will be used for i mean i definately want it to be a daily driver that i can drag race on weekend with and just take it out on a long country road and just put your foot down for some nice cross country sprints my motor should withstand all of this and still purr like a kitten....what can i do.......?
go to the classifieds and pick up one of those golden eagle b18b sleeved blocks for like 900 bucks. combine it up with some pistons and rods and make a sick lsvtec.
you can rev an ls block, providing you have a nice balance in the motor and good rodbolts
additionally, some people remove the oil squirters in favor of a little more oil pressure. they are not needed with a forged internals.
or.......... u can use ls rods and crank in a b18c. haha i think what im trying to say is use an ls crank for additional stroke
you can rev an ls block, providing you have a nice balance in the motor and good rodbolts
additionally, some people remove the oil squirters in favor of a little more oil pressure. they are not needed with a forged internals.
or.......... u can use ls rods and crank in a b18c. haha i think what im trying to say is use an ls crank for additional stroke
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok guys please bare with me im new to this and this has probably discussed a million times before but here goes........
now im all about reliabilty but i want to make great power and torque
but i dont want to have to rebuild my motor every 30k miles now i plan to go forged internals also using a block gaurd cant afford sleeves right nowin terms of ....?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you doing the wrong thing with your money.
y
just remember, its not IF your motor will blow its WHEN your motor will blow. the more money you spend the longer it will last/and the more power you can have.
dont tell me you have never heard this-
cheap, fast, reliable. choose 2 because you cant have all 3.
now im all about reliabilty but i want to make great power and torque
but i dont want to have to rebuild my motor every 30k miles now i plan to go forged internals also using a block gaurd cant afford sleeves right nowin terms of ....?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you doing the wrong thing with your money.
y
just remember, its not IF your motor will blow its WHEN your motor will blow. the more money you spend the longer it will last/and the more power you can have.
dont tell me you have never heard this-
cheap, fast, reliable. choose 2 because you cant have all 3.
read my post i had no itention of going the cheap corner cutting route i dont have a endless bank account but i dont believe in doing anything the easy or cheap way i just cant go the sleeve route right now so just internals i just need to choose a suitable block to build.........
When you make actual torque, you don't need to rev the **** out of it to accelerate decently. The B18A / B18B's slightly larger displacement, mid-range cams, and 9.2:1 compression make for great mid-range torque with boost. High RPMs, high compression, and big ports are how you make all-motor power, but are often counter-productive with forced induction. You might as well start with a cheap plain motor like the LS, rather than an expensive B18C that is just going to work against some of the benefits of boost. Just don't waste your time with LS gears... a GS-R transmission is the way to go with a turbo LS.
Edit: and you absolutely need a good tune... not just full throttle, but also part throttle too.
Edit: and you absolutely need a good tune... not just full throttle, but also part throttle too.
id say keep it simple, unless your wanting 500+ whp.....but im planning on a simple setup with reachable goals in the mid 300 - 400whp range..my suggestion is get a gsr block, dont worry about lsvtec cause there is no need unless you REAlly want the extra stroke to help you with spool time...throw in some forged rods and pistons, 550-770cc injectors, fuel pump, sc34 is what im chooseing for my hp goal, no need for hugeness.. and really the other parts is your choice, 38-44 mm wg is all you need... and with this setup, from my experience and what ive seen...with a good tune i would shoot for 400whp and trust it...MAKE SURE YOU FIND A GOOD TUNER and you will win with this setup...best of luck man!
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