Could I notch a D-block with the crank still in ?
Just thinking ... could I notch my block with the crank still in, from under the car ?
I know it's gonna be a pain, but is it possible ?



this is crazy, I know, but is it possibe ? ... the block would get prety dirty .. I thought I could use a blower of so, and blow the hell out of it before putting it back together. And then, do an oil change right after the first start of the engine
Do you think a dremel would fit in the first picture ?
I know it's gonna be a pain, but is it possible ?



this is crazy, I know, but is it possibe ? ... the block would get prety dirty .. I thought I could use a blower of so, and blow the hell out of it before putting it back together. And then, do an oil change right after the first start of the engine
Do you think a dremel would fit in the first picture ?
U notch in the car, then what?
Drop the piston a rod set threw the to.By that time, the motor is mostly dis assembled.
Drop the piston a rod set threw the to.By that time, the motor is mostly dis assembled.
take the head off -> put new pistons, measure the ring gap only, and go with 75mm Vitaras
notch the block -> put Eagle rods
open up the oil hole on the crank bearings, and reuse um
... and I'm done, considering I already have ARPs
That's the plan, for cheap build up
notch the block -> put Eagle rods
open up the oil hole on the crank bearings, and reuse um
... and I'm done, considering I already have ARPs
That's the plan, for cheap build up
Open up the hole on the crank bearings with the motor in the car still???
josh
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miro_gt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the head off -> put new pistons, measure the ring gap only, and go with 75mm Vitaras
notch the block -> put Eagle rods
open up the oil hole on the crank bearings, and reuse um
... and I'm done, considering I already have ARPs
That's the plan, for cheap build up</TD></TR></TABLE>
josh
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miro_gt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the head off -> put new pistons, measure the ring gap only, and go with 75mm Vitaras
notch the block -> put Eagle rods
open up the oil hole on the crank bearings, and reuse um
... and I'm done, considering I already have ARPs
That's the plan, for cheap build up</TD></TR></TABLE>
It takes 30 minutes to yank a D series. Pull it out and save having to do this again by having a foreign particle ruin your new bearings.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this has got to be the dumbest idea ive heard in awhile.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Open up the hole on the crank bearings with the motor in the car still???
josh
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, this ^
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this has got to be the dumbest idea ive heard in awhile.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah, I've had so many other dumber ideas than this one
-----------
am .. today I found that extention piece for the dremel, cause the actual dremel wont fit (it's too big), but that flex extention is about 1" in diameter and has 6" long body, after which there's the flex section (about 1.5ft long). That one will fit, and costs like 30 bux ...
I don't know, I'm still thinking
as for metal shavings getting in between the bearings - I'm gonna protect the shafts where the bearings sit with something. As for the rest - I'm hopping that the oil will wash out whatever is leaved, and bring it into the oil filter, which I'm gonna replace immediately after the first start
josh
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, this ^
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this has got to be the dumbest idea ive heard in awhile.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah, I've had so many other dumber ideas than this one

-----------
am .. today I found that extention piece for the dremel, cause the actual dremel wont fit (it's too big), but that flex extention is about 1" in diameter and has 6" long body, after which there's the flex section (about 1.5ft long). That one will fit, and costs like 30 bux ...
I don't know, I'm still thinking
as for metal shavings getting in between the bearings - I'm gonna protect the shafts where the bearings sit with something. As for the rest - I'm hopping that the oil will wash out whatever is leaved, and bring it into the oil filter, which I'm gonna replace immediately after the first start
Your really only going to be causing more problems for yourself. This is almost as bad as the guy on here a while ago who took the head off his d16 to put on a thinner y8 hg to raise compression and decided to hone his cylinders because they looked to smooth and ended up de seating his rings and making his car smoke all over the place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this has got to be the dumbest idea ive heard in awhile.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry mang.
sorry mang.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This would be pure engine suicide. It only takes one tiny chip to take the motor down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you heard it guys...
now do you guys believe us when we say this is ******* stupid?
and you plan on taking the crank out to drill the holes bigger in the bearings with the engine in there? thats crazy. you have no idea how much easier and better it would be to pull the engine and disassemble it.
you heard it guys...
now do you guys believe us when we say this is ******* stupid?
and you plan on taking the crank out to drill the holes bigger in the bearings with the engine in there? thats crazy. you have no idea how much easier and better it would be to pull the engine and disassemble it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This would be pure engine suicide. It only takes one tiny chip to take the motor down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Checkmate.
Checkmate.
Even after youve done it like you want, and risked total destruction of the engine, you probably will spend more time doing it this way then to just pull the motor and do it right.
I mean cmon, how long does it take you to pull a motor?
Listen to everyone here dont do it.
I mean cmon, how long does it take you to pull a motor?
Listen to everyone here dont do it.
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