I have a 91 accord LX sedean with a 5 speed. The left side front caliper constantly grabs much harder than the right. If i put the car on jackstands and put it into gear, the right wheel spins freely, while the left side is locked up. It is MUCH harder to turn than the right side. I have just replaced the brake pads, put new rotors on, replaced the caliper with a rebuilt one, and replaced the pins(bolts) which the floating caliper moves. Whenever i drive the car, since the left side is always rubbing pretty badly, it squeaks like crazy, until i hit the brake pedeal,when it stops. I have also noticed that the car pulls to the left on the highway. My friend told me it could have to do with where the master cylinder distributes the pressure to each of the calipers, but I have not checked it out. I would appreciate any advice about what to do. Thanks!

 

brake master cylinder

 

you had one of the calipers replaced? and did you get the wheel bearings replaced when you replaced the rotors?

 

It sounds like you have fluid presure that is not bleeding off. Open the bleeder screw and see if the wheel frees up. If it does, the caliper is ok. Pump the presure back up and follow the line looking for any kinks or other bad spots. Break the line loose where the flexible hose begins in the wheel well. Again the wheel should free up. Next go to the proportioning valve and try that fitting. Just keep moving one fitting to the next until you get to one where the wheel stays tight, and you know you just passed the problem area. If you get to the master cyl. and the pressure still bleeds off replace it.

 

Try bleeding the system first. Then work your way up to the more expensive solutions.

 

No, I did not get the wheel bearings replaced when I put on the new rotors. Why might that make the wheel so difficult to turn?

ignitenj

 

I will definitely take that approach. Thanks for the advice. What do you think about a bad wheel bearing? Can that be a possibility?

ignitenj

 

I've never seen a bad wheel bearing cause a wheel to be hard to turn. (But i'm not saying it's not possible, I just havn't seen it yet.) They usually just make noise, sometimes they will have alot of play in them. Your problem sounds like it is in the brake system.

 

My wheel bearings are fine. They make no noise and are tight. I opened the bleeder valve, and some fluid trickled out. however, that did not free up the wheel. This makes me wonder if it is a pressure problem. I took back the rebuilt caliper that i bought, to make sure that they didnt give me a bad one. The next one they gave me still locked up the wheel. I'm pretty sure that is not the problem. Could it be the bracket that he caliper floats on with the two pins? Maybe the proportioning valve? what you said about checking the caliper and seeing where along the brake system that it does not free up the wheel makes perfect sense. However, its hard to decide where to go if the wheel does not free up when the bleeder valve is open. Any suggestions?

ignitenj

 

With the bleeder open and fluid coming out, you have narrowed it down alot. The lines and everything else is back up to the master cylinder are ok. So, your problem should be at the caliper, saddle or pins. If you have verified that you have a good caliper, then take a look at the saddles and pins. Does everything appear straight and properly installed? Are the pins well lubed? Do the pads move freely? Remove the pads and bolt up the caliper. Does it slide back and forth freely? And one last question; The rotor does turn with the caliper removed, right?

 

hmmm....i think you should listen to Misa...i mean comon...who are we kidding...

 

Yes, the rotor does turn freely with the caliper removed. I have taken apart the caliper, saddle, and pins. Everything appears to be straight and properly installed. I replaced the pins when I replaced the caliper. I was sure to use the special grease for brakes to lube the pins. The caliper slides back and forth freely, even more free than the right side(i have taken the other side off for comparision when I was very frustrated). The only thing that I was unsure about was that one of the pins slid all the way into the saddle and stayed, while the other pin popped out an inch or so, as if there was a spring at the bottom of it. It seemed like there was grease in there pushing it out, but I checked, and it is all clear. It must be because of that rubber piece at the end of one of the pins(only one pin has it). I guess it is airtight, and the air pushes it back out. (???). Once I took the rubber piece off the end of the pin, it slid in and stayed just like the other pin. Also, the pins seems to have a little play inside of the saddle. I dont know if that could cause any trouble. I will now take off the other side to see if that has as much play in it. Anything come to mind?

ignitenj

 

One more thing. I remember how this problem started. I had to get my rotors cut, so i replaced the pads and rotors. When they cut the rotors, they somehow were warped, or maybe were cut crooked. Anyway, the left side was the bad side. The wobble was very annoying, and thats when i started to notice the squeaking. I rode like that for about a month, then realized the problem. I changed the rotors, pads, etc, and the problem still persisted. That wobbly rotor seems to have caused the problem. Maybe could the wobbly rotor have put stress on the brake setup, and caused the looseness between the pins and the saddle? Or could anything else have been affected from the rotor? Just a thought.

ignitenj

 

Sorry, i'm out of ideas. If I think of anything else, i'll post it.