Building a D16 for Nitrous. Weakest link?

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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 09:34 PM
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Default Building a D16 for Nitrous. Weakest link?

I am getting ready to start building my SOHC ZC (basically just a D16A6) for a 75 shot of nitrous. (once I got da $ that is... )

I already got a new clutch and flywheel, and an Si tranny ready to go in, so now the motor needs attention.

My plans were: retard timing 2 deg., one step colder plugs, and run race gas when spraying. (Track only spraying, btw.)

I guess the question is, is there any real "weak link" I should worry about before spraying? Pistons? Rods? Rings? Fuel Pump? (I'm running a wet kit, will the FP be an issue?) Say something were to go wrong, what's the first thing that would fail? If I know that now, I can replace it before anything happens, as a security measure .
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 05:16 AM
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Bump.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 05:49 AM
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Rods and pistons. The 88-89 D16A6 had cast iron sleeves I beleive, strong enough, but they might be an issue at 75, I'd do a 50 shot, but I'm not a NOS pro.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:00 AM
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Get a good in tank fuel pump and run a wet shot. Run a window switch and NOT a push button.

Go to like ls1tech.com and copy some nitrous setups... just a much smaller scale.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:03 AM
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Default Re: (ludesrv)

like ludesrv said, pistons and rods.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:19 AM
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my buddy has a d15b2 in his rex we converted to multipoint running a Nitrous express 75 wet shot. it runs good
we ran one and a half bottles threw it. no problems. timing is retarded about 2 degress and some colder plugs. we would pull the plugs out each time and check them and they came out pretty good. i think you would be okay with a 75shot if you didnt abuse it. and yes get a window switch, push buttons are too much work when tryin to race unless its on the steering wheel
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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stock internals are good enough for a 75 shot, just make sure you check the plugs after you run and i would get a walbro fuel pump.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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Default Re: (Bserieskllr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserieskllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock internals are good enough for a 75 shot, just make sure you check the plugs after you run and i would get a walbro fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's a daily (like his) it will see alot of mileage, and if your nossing it, and beating it up every once in a while, I'd go the extra mile and get some stronger rods adleast. Pistons if you got the cash.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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if you wanna run a 75 shot, you should worry about retarding the timing, and keeping the a/f ratio on the rich side.

if you wanna go bigger, than rods would be the best way to go. you dont necessarily need pistons, but it would be nice.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Now, i'm just wondering, what problems could I run into with a 190 lph fuel pump? Isn't that too much fuel for the motor? would it bog it down?
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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expletive man

I ran a zex dry shot for 2 seasons, maybe 10 bottles, only mods were i/h/e on the poor old sohc zc and it took it like a champ

Still ran great when I removed the bottle to

All you have to do is remember to retard the timing (I did 4 degrees) and I ran a pg7 ecu

No need to fun with anything at all internally or even externally relating with fuel etc etc

The zex kit is pretty nice for the money, I wouldnt waste my money going with anything else
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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I'm going with the NX Main Line kit.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Zex dry kit, dont go with anything else for a 75 or less shot

My friend even ran one on his B16a1 with a 100 shot with ZERo problems

There idiotprooof and require no tuning

Run the same setup I did, 88 crx si (my car) and your cutting 13.7 1/4's with under $1400 spent on the entire car including suspension
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Default Re: (Tippyman)

I'd get a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. The pistons and rods will be fine.

No one has mentioned it, but I would also get ARP head studs.

Good luck.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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Default Re: (Mach69)

You just told him to waste his money lol
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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I wouldn't run a dry 75 shot with stock injectors just cause I am a scared little *****. That's why i'm going with a wet shot. That way injector capacity is no question.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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220k mile 240's took mine all the way home 90+ squeezes
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You just told him to waste his money lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Adding stronger components are never a WASTE of money sure yours may have been fine with it but his might not be and for that matter you may have gotten lucky im building my motor not just for turbo but to withstand abuse also if it was just an A6 and had really nothing into it then I would say go nuts if it blows it blows but if he wants the motor to remain strong and running mods are better.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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nothing is really NEEDED to run the 75 shot, but if you got the $$$ and resources the bottom end could ALWAYS be refreshed beforehand....all it takes is one of your piston rings to fail and thats that...but to answer your question, the sohc RODS are the weakest link in the d-series motors, although they should hold up as long as you keep the revs under sontrol...

i also recommend not spraying in 1st gear until you get the hang of spraying.

i'd run a dry shot as well tho.
wet kits are very nice, but really not necessary until you get to 100 shot or more.
just run a stock ecu, tune with a FPR with your stock injectors, adjust the timing and replace your plugs and you'll be good
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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You see to me, a dry shot is just one more risk. Your're relying on your stock injectors to take the extra strain. With a wet kit, extra fual is supplied directly from the line so you never have to worry. It's just one less thing to go wrong...
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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Plenty more problems and comlications come from a wet kit

Its all your choice, depends on what u wanna want and what u wanna spend

I can make 250whp for under $2500, some people insist on spending 8k+, just becuase there are certain ways to do everything

All what u want man
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You see to me, a dry shot is just one more risk. Your're relying on your stock injectors to take the extra strain. With a wet kit, extra fual is supplied directly from the line so you never have to worry. It's just one less thing to go wrong...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know how the wet kits work, i used to run a 75 shot NX DP kit on my '91 integra. it worked fine, but it cost me more $$$ to setup properly in the long run and i STILL ran the same risks of detonation as i would've had i used a dry setup.

why not try a dry 50 shot 1st just to see how it handles it?? you can always change the jet size later if you wanna go bigger..just a suggestion.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 12:44 PM
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Cause the NX Main Line kit if only $400 brand new. And it's a wet kit. And I don't trust my stock fuel system.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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d16 bottom ends have been more then well proven to handle 250whp++, adding a 75 shot to a motor making around 110whp if that you will not have to worry about internals if everything is setup right, i prefer wet kits over dry esp. anything over 60.
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