How do I torque down my ARP's on my Z6? Is there a certain pattern? If so please provide a diagram. I'm outside now trying to do this... I'm gonna torque to 67 ft-lbs with moly lube. Thanks!


Modified by Toroke at 2:31 PM 8/15/2006

 

Bump, need an answer, can't go on without.

 

It's the same pattern as stock...


You start in the middle and work your way out in a criss-cross pattern...


09/5/1/3/7
10/6/2/4/8

Frankly I'm not sure that's the EXACT pattern... but it also isn't THAT important...

You just want to start in the middle and work your way out in a criss-crossing pattern...

ALSO BE SURE that you do this in steps.. in other words DO NOT torque them to 60 on the first run...

I do it so they're all handtight then back over it 1/2 - 1/3 of a turn and keep doing that only turning each bolt/nut 1/2-1/3 of a turn each time till I hit the desired torque.

It'll prob take 3-4 passes.

 

Thanks so much. Now, at this point, I just called ARP and they recommended I take them to 60 ft-lbs... The first guy said it's fine to take them an extra 5, but I had him get a second opinion and the guy he asked apparently has been around for some time there, and said to just go with 60. Sound good?

 

I wouldn't exceed 60lbs unless you're planning on HEAVILY boosting the car...

That's really the only concern is sealing the HG.. .SOME TIMES rediculous amounts of boost will cause a leak... but not very often and I've never heard of it on a civic...

Also keep in mind it's an aluminum block... if you over torque the studs and F up the threads in the block it'll be a NIGHTMARE.

Stick with whatever the ARP guy says.

 

in the helms for a d16y7 (and 8) says

9 3 1 5 7
8 6 2 4 10

Make 4 passes:
1 - 10 to 14 lb-ft
1 - 10 to 36 lb-ft
1 - 10 to 49 lb-ft
1 and 2 to 49 lb-ft again.


for a B16A it says:

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10

and 2-3 steps to 61 lb-ft.

Basically the same thing, but opposite X pattern, so I doubt it makes a difference.