Could somebody tell me how to check resistance on a iac valve or send me a link. I never check the resistance before. I guess you unplug the connector from the wiring harness and set the ohmeter to a setting??

 

if you don't know how to use a multimeter maybe you shouldn't be checking this yourself...

to answer your question just set the meter to whatever decimal place you need, im not sure what the resistance is supposed to be, nor what terminals to check but yes just unplug the terminals, maybe somebody else can help you with the pinout and spec resistance, free bump for u

 

never heard of anyone checking the resistance on the iacv... it's a switch... apply or remove 12v and it opens or closes... if it doesn't open or close with voltage applied, remove it and clean it... still doesn't move, replace it...

 

That would I expect a mechanic trying to rip me off would say. I assume no one comes into the world knowing how to use an ohmeter. If I went by that philosophy than I would never even changed a battery. Before my first time changing a battery, I never changed a battery before.

 

He's trying to tell you that it only see's 12V to open close.

With a tuning program like Hondata, AEM EMS, you can monitor and change the duty cycle on the IACV but not with just the factory ECU.

If you have a problem, clean IACV screens, tighten the plastic screw in the FITV and then follow procedures in the helms to disconnect iacv plug, and reset your idle using the idle screw on top of the throttle body.

If all this doesn't work, most likely the IACV is bad. They are $189 from Vatozone and the dealer.

 

I don't quite think you get the point, the resistance on the IACV doesn't matter. Measuring it is pointless. It's a valve controlled by the ecu. The ecu tells it to open or close based on inputs from other sensors. If it doesn't open and close when your ecu tells it to, it's either dirty or busted. A mechanic that would spend time probing your IACV is the one trying to rip you off.

edit:

what mike1114 said too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't quite think you get the point, the resistance on the IACV doesn't matter. Measuring it is pointless. It's a valve controlled by the ecu. The ecu tells it to open or close based on inputs from other sensors. If it doesn't open and close when your ecu tells it to, it's either dirty or busted. A mechanic that would spend time probing your IACV is the one trying to rip you off.

edit:

what mike1114 said too...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The point is not knowing how to use the ohmeter does not discourage me from trying. How do you suppose to learn if dont try and sometime fail? I've had mechanics say
"if you don't know how to use a multimeter maybe you shouldn't be checking this yourself..."
Mechanics said it to me about other diy projects I had questions about. I could very easily get it checked by somebody else around 100 bucks here at a shop. I hope you get the point now.

 

How about measuring the resistance of something that actually needs measuring then... Spark plug wires for instance... should read in Kohms, over 25Kohms needs replacing.

Or if you want to get adventurous. Measure the grounding of the engine at different points, if the resistance is high consider adding another ground wire... or removing and cleaning contact points of existing grounds.

If you just want to measure guages, try backprobing the TPS. Remove the black plugs that seal the wires into the connector. If your probe ends are too large then get a couple paper clips and stick into the holes where the wires go turn the ignition on... one of the pins is the input voltage which should be constant and one is the output which should vary between ~.45 and 4.5 volts pending on throttle position.

I'm not trying to discourage you from learning. I'm just trying to tell you that you won't be learning anything useful by doing what you proposed.

 

Technically the iacv does have a resistance cuz it is not a switch as u claim it's actually a silanoid :p now weather that resistance matters or not that's a diffrent story.

Just tryna b a smart *** haha :D

 

The IAC should have a resistance of about 12 Ohms. Also test the IAC from one of the connectors to the body of the IAC. It should read Infinite ohms. I have 3 extras let me know if you need one. Why do you want to test it anyway?

 

Ancient thread closed.