why is my crx still burning oil?!?!??
why is my d15b2 still burning oil in cylinder 3? ive replaced the valve stem seals. basically the head is rebuilt and all new, its not that. the only thing i can think of is the rings.. BUT the engine only has 100,000 miles on it, how can that be? and i also have 180psi compression in all cylinders. so how can just the oil ring in cylinder 3 be bad? the 3rd piston compared to the others looks brand new. no carbon deposits at all on it which is wierd.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tractiondeprived »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly leaking out the oil pan, do you see any buildup coming out of the gasket surface?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no its not leaking externally. its burning the oil. meaning smoke is coming out of the exhaust and im losing about a quart of oil or more a week.
no its not leaking externally. its burning the oil. meaning smoke is coming out of the exhaust and im losing about a quart of oil or more a week.
damn thats pretty strange... wonder if the headgasket could be blown allowing oil to travel between one of the oil passages and the cylinder? only thing i can think of if compression checks out and valve seals are fine
are you sure u installed the valve seals right? could be possible they aren't seating
are you sure u installed the valve seals right? could be possible they aren't seating
now that i think about it you could have good compression reading from the compression rings, but it could still be leaking past the lower oiling rings and being burnt off in the cylinders, i don't see that as being too much of a stretch.
you saying they look brand new points to the headgasket, if coolant was seeping in there it would be like it was steam cleaning the pistons. are you losing coolant, or can u see any oil in the coolant (would look milky) or vice versa?
you saying they look brand new points to the headgasket, if coolant was seeping in there it would be like it was steam cleaning the pistons. are you losing coolant, or can u see any oil in the coolant (would look milky) or vice versa?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tractiondeprived »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn thats pretty strange... wonder if the headgasket could be blown allowing oil to travel between one of the oil passages and the cylinder? only thing i can think of if compression checks out and valve seals are fine
are you sure u installed the valve seals right? could be possible they aren't seating</TD></TR></TABLE>
it has had two new headgaskets since ive taken the head off twice. headgasket is fine. valve seals are installed correctly. ive installed valves seals probably 100 times over the years of working on my car and others.
are you sure u installed the valve seals right? could be possible they aren't seating</TD></TR></TABLE>
it has had two new headgaskets since ive taken the head off twice. headgasket is fine. valve seals are installed correctly. ive installed valves seals probably 100 times over the years of working on my car and others.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tractiondeprived »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that i think about it you could have good compression reading from the compression rings, but it could still be leaking past the lower oiling rings and being burnt off in the cylinders, i don't see that as being too much of a stretch.
you saying they look brand new points to the headgasket, if coolant was seeping in there it would be like it was steam cleaning the pistons. are you losing coolant, or can u see any oil in the coolant (would look milky) or vice versa?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not losing any coolant and its not burning any coolant. and no oil in the coolant. i know the compression would read fine and still have a bad oil ring but the possibilities of that happeneing are next to none i was told.
only the 3rd piston looks brand new without a ounce of carbon deposit on it and that is the cylinder that is burning the oil... the rest look normal with the normal amount of carbond deposit.
you saying they look brand new points to the headgasket, if coolant was seeping in there it would be like it was steam cleaning the pistons. are you losing coolant, or can u see any oil in the coolant (would look milky) or vice versa?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not losing any coolant and its not burning any coolant. and no oil in the coolant. i know the compression would read fine and still have a bad oil ring but the possibilities of that happeneing are next to none i was told.
only the 3rd piston looks brand new without a ounce of carbon deposit on it and that is the cylinder that is burning the oil... the rest look normal with the normal amount of carbond deposit.
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do a wet compression test. check all the compressions of each cylinders, then check them againg with two squirts of oil in each cylinder if the readings change in any of the cylinders alot then its the oil control ring...
lol, i'm also in the 120k mile D15 burning a ton of oil club, i just keep putting more into it , i dunno what the problem is though because it never used to burn oil like this but i also have'nt noticed any power loss at all and i constantly beat on it so i'd know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RockWolf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe the rings havent set....
thats my 0.02$</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? ive never put rings in it.. its stock at 100k miles
thats my 0.02$</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? ive never put rings in it.. its stock at 100k miles
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by godruler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, i'm also in the 120k mile D15 burning a ton of oil club, i just keep putting more into it , i dunno what the problem is though because it never used to burn oil like this but i also have'nt noticed any power loss at all and i constantly beat on it so i'd know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea well thats what ive been doing also for about a year too. just kept filling it up every week. but then it decided to burn one the exhaust valves in that cylinder recently which i believe is from all the oil in that cylinder causing it too lean out and finally over heat the valves.
yea well thats what ive been doing also for about a year too. just kept filling it up every week. but then it decided to burn one the exhaust valves in that cylinder recently which i believe is from all the oil in that cylinder causing it too lean out and finally over heat the valves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leakdown test?</TD></TR></TABLE>
leakdown isnt going to tell me anything. my compression is 180 across the board.
leakdown isnt going to tell me anything. my compression is 180 across the board.
Pull the plugs, make sure it's only one cylinder burning oil.
Pull the header/exhaust manifold, that could tell you which of the cylinders are doing it too possibly from build up of crap in the passages.
I'd make sure there isn't something going on with the valve cover and the spark plug holes before re-ringing it.
If i couldn't find anything going on with that stuff, i'd yank the head, the pan, and be putting new rings on it (actually i'd of done that at the same time that i replaced the stem seals, but that's just me). I'd just hone the cylinders real quick with the engine in the car. I usually glob about a quart of grease all over everything below the cylinder (aka the crank bearings and what not) to keep the little metal shavings off moving parts, and wipe the grease off along with the shavings just before reassembly. Don't really have to get all the grease off, just most... except on the bearing itself... or you'll mis-torque them in reassembly.
I'd also pull a random selection of bearing caps off the crank while in there, and see how they look. No sense in reringing an engine if you've got bearings that are just about done. I would also plastigage 1 or 2 of them just for fun, to see if it is within spec.
gl
Pull the header/exhaust manifold, that could tell you which of the cylinders are doing it too possibly from build up of crap in the passages.
I'd make sure there isn't something going on with the valve cover and the spark plug holes before re-ringing it.
If i couldn't find anything going on with that stuff, i'd yank the head, the pan, and be putting new rings on it (actually i'd of done that at the same time that i replaced the stem seals, but that's just me). I'd just hone the cylinders real quick with the engine in the car. I usually glob about a quart of grease all over everything below the cylinder (aka the crank bearings and what not) to keep the little metal shavings off moving parts, and wipe the grease off along with the shavings just before reassembly. Don't really have to get all the grease off, just most... except on the bearing itself... or you'll mis-torque them in reassembly.
I'd also pull a random selection of bearing caps off the crank while in there, and see how they look. No sense in reringing an engine if you've got bearings that are just about done. I would also plastigage 1 or 2 of them just for fun, to see if it is within spec.
gl
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