I was looking for some tips on painting my CRX. There was a post on here back a month or so ago of a guy who painted his a semi gloss black that looked killer. I would just like some tips on prep ( sanding, primer if primer is needed ) and what brands are good to use and what to stay away from. Semi gloss black is what I plan to use. I am not look for it to be perfect but I want it to look decent. Thanks

 

if your looking for cheap but decent looking, go with a one stage paint, if you go to advance auto parts, they sell duplicolor one stage paint, its like 35 dollars per gallon plus like 15 bucks for the quart of reducer....and a gallon will do the whole car, i just painted my friends 240 with 2 coats with half a gallon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your looking for cheap but decent looking, go with a one stage paint, if you go to advance auto parts, they sell duplicolor one stage paint, its like 35 dollars per gallon plus like 15 bucks for the quart of reducer....and a gallon will do the whole car, i just painted my friends 240 with 2 coats with half a gallon</TD></TR></TABLE>

What did you use to apply it? Air compressor?

 

Hey do u got 50 bucks?
Do you know how to sand?
How about waxing?

Look at 69chargeryeeeha's post on page 1 it has links to a charger and 2 beetles he painted with Rustoleum...looks friggin awesome...Dont bother trying to read the whole topic its 48 pages on that then it is moved to a recent thread wich is another 88 pages...So go to this link and go to the last page and the last post will lead you to the new things (july till today) then go to like page 28 and thats where they have come now. Lots of good results...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pimpinafirstgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey do u got 50 bucks?
Do you know how to sand?
How about waxing?

Look at 69chargeryeeeha's post on page 1 it has links to a charger and 2 beetles he painted with Rustoleum...looks friggin awesome...Dont bother trying to read the whole topic its 48 pages on that then it is moved to a recent thread wich is another 88 pages...So go to this link and go to the last page and the last post will lead you to the new things (july till today) then go to like page 28 and thats where they have come now. Lots of good results...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1</TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember seeing that now.. I am going to try that way. Thanks for the reminder.

 

harbor freight sells a spray gun kit for $30. it includes a hvlp gravity fed gun with 1.4mm tip. You'll need at least a 26 gallon compressor. any chips in existing paint or deep scratches should be sprayed with a high build primer then wetsanded (220-400). The high build primer contains solids that will fill the scratches. Think of primer as glue for paint. evercoat primer and thinner=$25 to primer car (wetsand with 400-600). Any mistakes you make can be wetsanded away. Don't get discouraged if you burned through the edges when sanding. you can get 1 gal omni au single stage urethane paint, 1 gal reducer and 1/2 gal of hardener for less $200. Onmi is manufactured by ppg and is way cheaper. 1/2 gal is more than enough to paint the car but buy a gallon since it's cheap. if you need to do touchups in the future you'll br glad the leftover paint is there. pickup a gallon of thinner to clean your guns.

tips: clean surface with wax/grease remover before spraying. wipe surface with tack cloth afterwards, go over car again with tackcloth. flash time (solvents evaporating) for omni paint is 20 min, wait 30-40 minutes and lay down next coat once paint becomes tacky. disassemble gun and clean it at least once a day. paint can harden betwwen the cup and body and can harden on the tip. It sucks when your in the middle of spraying and the pattern suddenly changes. Make all air pressure adjustments before you load your cup. if you have nice wheels remove then and find some steelies, etc. i recommend removal of parts before taping up whenever possible. be careful sanding the contoured edges of your crx because it doesn't take much to see bare metal. The spray job is directly proportional to the amount of time you'll spend wetsanding leveling the orangepeel.

how to set up a booth, diy exhaust fan and trial and error diy bodywork/paint.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1531842

 

If you sand it down to bare metal, you should use a self-etching primer, then spray the regular primer. You can save your self alot ow work if you spay your first coat of regular primer while the self-etching is still wet, if not you'll need to scuff it up befor you can spray(a scuff pad will work great). If you want a realy slick paint job, I recomend 3 coats of regular primer. Block the first two with 120 grit, then wet sand last coat with 320. Make sure though, after every coat dries, get a cheap can of flat black spray paint and bairly mist on (this is called a guide coat, and really helps show where you have sanded or not and also if you high spots, or dents in the body). By far the most important step though is wet sanding the third coat. If you didn't put guide coat on coats one and two, you could get away with that, but not the third coat. You will have to look really close at the primer and make sure there is no sign of guide coat or any texture in the primer (if you don't it will show up in the final product). When you think you're finally ready for paint make sure you wipe it down with a degreaser (you're supposed to wipe it down in primer stages to, I just forgot to add that) and then use a tack cloth and start spraying. (I'm not sure how much you know about painting, and in know way am I trying to make you sound stupid, but when you spray your first coat of paint barely mist it on, kind of like the guide coat. This lets the paint adhere better). How many coats you spray depends on you, but I wouldn't spray past 5 because the thicker the paint the worse. Also give each coat plennty of time to dry, or else it will make a really nasty thing called solvent pop and force you to sand it back down. Assuming you have got this far with know problems, you'll be ready to spray your clear coat. Clear is little than spraying paint, and a whole lot harder. Whan you spray your first coat of clear, spray enough so that it appaers wet, then give about 15 minutes to dry. The next coat you spray, you should spray a little more generously. Once again, how many coats you do is up to you. Sometimes it's better to spray a few extra near the bottom of the car, in case rocks fly up and hit it or somthing. Now for the final step (if you choose to do, you don't have to, but I highly recomend) get some 1000 grit wet sand paper, and wet sand it. just make sure you keep the surface you're working on wet and clean or else major scratches will show up. What you're trying to do here is make the paint look hazy. Once you do that you can get an electric buffer and some buffing compound, and really make it shine.
I hope this helps, and if you have any other questions, email me at dj66@bellsouth.net

 

eda6 beat me to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pimpinafirstgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey do u got 50 bucks?
Do you know how to sand?
How about waxing?

Look at 69chargeryeeeha's post on page 1 it has links to a charger and 2 beetles he painted with Rustoleum...looks friggin awesome...Dont bother trying to read the whole topic its 48 pages on that then it is moved to a recent thread wich is another 88 pages...So go to this link and go to the last page and the last post will lead you to the new things (july till today) then go to like page 28 and thats where they have come now. Lots of good results...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1</TD></TR></TABLE>

hauhahahhuaha wtf!?!?! thats so insane, i was planning on renting a booth and painting my rex but now that i read that, i think im going to try it. anyone on here ever tried that? im wondering how durable the paint is, and what kind of paint it is exactly. i read the brand, tremclad, is that an autopaint? or is it for homes or something? crazy!

 

yeah, it seems like that guy's method is famous now.

The Tremclad is just Rustoleum. There is like a million pages about it in that forum and this one: http://forums.club4ag.com/topi...33867

I'm looking to test this method on my hood. Seems superior in all ways when talking about paint on a budget.

 

its amazing that someone can use a roller and have a nice job.