94 Accord Electrical Problem-Please help, Honda dealership cannot help me!
I have a 1994 Accord that drove fine for years and then car shutoff while driving like someone had flipped a switch. Will turn over and has all electrical working but will not start. Can leave car overnite and then will start up and drive to house. This went on for couple of times and took to dealership and they replaced main relay. Has ran fine for two months but now problem has come back. Do I need to replace relay again? Dealership says they cannot fix unless it happens with them and they had for a week and could not duplicate it. I drove for 3rd time and it shutoff on me again. I love the car and is in great condition just cannot trust it anymore. PLEASE HELP!! THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!
If the car won't start because the interior is hot, that is a sign of a bad relay.
I've always told people to resolder their old relay instead of buying a new one. The new ones will have cracked solder joints right out of the box.
I've always told people to resolder their old relay instead of buying a new one. The new ones will have cracked solder joints right out of the box.
Ignition Switch(electrical), this also a common problem. main relays problems are when starting the engine on hot days, as Hondadude explained.
We will need to know what you do not have when it wont start, no fuel coming out of test port on top of fuel filter while cranking or no spark while using a spare spark plug grounded to the block in a spark plug wire that you pulled to do this test, if you have fuel and spark then you have issues, I am betting on an overheated ignition coil but more to come. I like the ignition switch also. Will the car start in start mode but die when you release the key to the run position.
Car is dead, turn the key off, turn it back on, does the check engine light come on for about three seconds and then go back off or does it stay on steady. Do the other idiot lights come on also, they should also come on when the car dies.
Car is dead, turn the key off, turn it back on, does the check engine light come on for about three seconds and then go back off or does it stay on steady. Do the other idiot lights come on also, they should also come on when the car dies.
i'm having a VERY similar problem on my 95lx .... engine kills when i'm driving it ... the car starts but dies when i move key to the "run" position. also my gauges are dancing around quite a bit. after the car starts, if i disengage the starter but still hold the key past the "run" part, the car does not die.
a couple have suggested it's the electrical portion of the ignition switch. thoughts? if so -- is this easy to replace myself? dealer said the electical portion of the switch is $40
a couple have suggested it's the electrical portion of the ignition switch. thoughts? if so -- is this easy to replace myself? dealer said the electical portion of the switch is $40
Yes, the problem is the electrical part of your ignition switch, it is easy to change, you need a Number one phillips, the smaller sharper skinnyer one, it only has one or two small screws holding it onto the mechanical portion of the ignition cylinder, maybe a zip tie or two and the male / female connector or two, you may need to reroute the new harness depending on how long yours is so pay very good attention to where it goes and it it is the longer type then you may need to unplug different connector also to make room for your banana fingers and gorilla hands to get in there sometimes (depends on model). You know what they say about folks with big hands, they need big gloves.
Along with the car only running in the start mode, you also should not have your idiot light in the run mode, this will verify your complaint as a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch. I also am not sure if you have to remove the lower and upper portion of the steering wheel column covers, if you do pay attention to where the screws go and if the are for plastic or metal areas (#2 normal phillips head), some may look like wood screws and some may look like machine screws. What ever you have to disassemble, it is not a hard job, get some serious ice water or Lipton tea and YOU CAN DO IT, $40 is a good price they are about the same here in Japan also.
Along with the car only running in the start mode, you also should not have your idiot light in the run mode, this will verify your complaint as a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch. I also am not sure if you have to remove the lower and upper portion of the steering wheel column covers, if you do pay attention to where the screws go and if the are for plastic or metal areas (#2 normal phillips head), some may look like wood screws and some may look like machine screws. What ever you have to disassemble, it is not a hard job, get some serious ice water or Lipton tea and YOU CAN DO IT, $40 is a good price they are about the same here in Japan also.
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