ok i tried doing what it ******* said about checking engine codes with a paper clip and the ******* light just stays on the whole ******* time and the srs light starts flashing what the expletive!


WHAT THE expletive DOES A LONG STEADY NEVER TURNING OFF ENGINE LIGHT CODE MEAN?

 

Bad ECU, be mad at yourself not honda

 

the ECU is good tried it on a friends car and worked just fine

 

If it bothers you that much why not go around the n888888 way of doing it and go to autozone or advance auto or any place with a scanner and have them pull the code?

 

Something in the electrical wiring gone awry?

 

auto zone and other places like that can only do it too cars newer than 96 i already tried! FUC* i just tried it on my other hatch its a 91 si and same thing xcept the srs light in doest have but nothing blinks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B!^A@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ECU is good tried it on a friends car and worked just fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

a solid light is a bad ecu, you probably doing it wrong

 

i had a problem like this not too long ago...did u swap out gauge clusters?

take your gauge cluster out make sure the GREEN/RED and GREEN/ORANGE wires arn't mixed up...

 

I work at Advance. We can read a few OBDI vehicles. They are the domestic sort though. With most, if not all OBDI vehicles the jumper method is the only thing that works. Are you sure you have a good connection with that paper clip of yours? Just a small thought.

You have the little connector from the passenger side..right? Jump it. Then turn the ignition to the "On" postition and count the blinking lights. (The codes repeat themselves twice so you don't miss them. Ex) 1 Long Blink, 2 Short blinks = 12, etc.

 

You serious, only 96 and up? My probe was a '94 and they were able to ODB scan it. Musta have something to do with when the car was switched to ODB-II - though I think a '94 probe is ODB-I O.o - I don't know, that car was high for it's time anyways O.o, for a small POS, came stock with power everything 'cept seats, stock AC (not an option), pwr windows, door locks, etc., 4 wheel disc brakes ABS (stock, not an option), sunroof (stock, not an option)..

****, that thing wasn't half bad now that I think of it O.o, I beat the hell outta it and it ran strong as expletive until the cylinder rings fried...

Anyways, I thought it was ODB-I and autozone was able to scan it, weird ****. But you didn't say '96+ HONDAS, you said 96+ cars....which would mean I didn't get my probe scanned there...which I did....Hrm, must be some new **** or something...weird problem...



So solid light is bad wiring or bad ECU (pick one), you're probably not doing something right...

PS:
What year is your car?

 

mycar is a 95 civic hatch and i didnt swap gauge clusters or anything ? i need v tec already help.......me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B!^A@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mycar is a 95 civic hatch and i didnt swap gauge clusters or anything ? i need v tec already help.......me</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you hate your car so much, ill give you 10$ for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I work at Advance. We can read a few OBDI vehicles. They are the domestic sort though. With most, if not all OBDI vehicles the jumper method is the only thing that works. Are you sure you have a good connection with that paper clip of yours? Just a small thought.

You have the little connector from the passenger side..right? Jump it. Then turn the ignition to the "On" postition and count the blinking lights. (The codes repeat themselves twice so you don't miss them. Ex) 1 Long Blink, 2 Short blinks = 12, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How does 1 long and 2 short somehow = 12...am i missing some connection?

OP...care to tell us WHAT THE expletive YOU ARE DOING? Did you someday just wake up and get engine light. Or did you swap engine...ecu...maybe you took a hammer and mashed at the harness.
Dawg.

Check main relay. Main relay bad = long steady check engine light.

 

if you're a newb and dont know what you're talking about the shut the expletive up

first of all to the original poster, I bet your dumass just jumped the CEL for no reason. do you have a CEL normal driving? I think not

when you have no codes and you jump, your light will be solid. that means no codes.

why are you mad at your honda its nothing wrong, be mad at yourself for being a dumass

you peice of ****

 

okay... have you checked your ECU fuse? if a couple wires crossed or had too much draw then you probably blew your ECU Fuse, if ECU fuse is blown then you get a SOLID CEL...

so check the ecu fuse and replace if necessary

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How does 1 long and 2 short somehow = 12...am i missing some connection?

OP...care to tell us WHAT THE expletive YOU ARE DOING? Did you someday just wake up and get engine light. Or did you swap engine...ecu...maybe you took a hammer and mashed at the harness.
Dawg.

Check main relay. Main relay bad = long steady check engine light.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, it's kinda like morse code...

Here is a good link on how it works:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412

 

remember the car has to be off and the key must be turned to the on position, the position where all the lights on the dash work and the radio-- car must be off, pretty sure..

 

first of all what car do u have? year make model. now if u are sure u have a good connection in the service check connector(the 2-P connector) turn the ignition to the on position. if it is one solid light then your Engine Control Module (ECM) is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECommie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it is one solid light then your Engine Control Module (ECM) is bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG!

if you get a CEL while the car is on and once you check it, it is soid then it is bad

if you have no CEL and try to check it will go solid which means its NORMAL

DUMASSES

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suckmypistons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG!

if you get a CEL while the car is on and once you check it, it is soid then it is bad

if you have no CEL and try to check it will go solid which means its NORMAL

DUMASSES</TD></TR></TABLE>

suckmypistons, CHILL OUT!!! Holy ****, man. Read the rules up at the top and calm down. No need to go postal. What he said was right, assuming the OP didnt just decide to pull a nonexistent code, which i doubt he did.

OP: Tell us what you did before this code, engine swap, electrical work etc. And check what the other guys have said, fuses and stuff. Also, make 100% positive that you are doing it exactly like the directions state, that way we are not diagnosing a bad operator instead of the car

edit: also, isnt there two plugs on down there where you pull the code? I dont remember, but make sure you have the right plug

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x_blindsk8er_x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay... have you checked your ECU fuse? if a couple wires crossed or had too much draw then you probably blew your ECU Fuse, if ECU fuse is blown then you get a SOLID CEL...

so check the ecu fuse and replace if necessary </TD></TR></TABLE>

did you try this yet? ^^ this is what was wrong with my car... every once in a while i'll blow the ECU fuse in the Engine Compartment... when this happened and i checked the code it was SOLID...

can anybody second that this will give a CEL?