Im starting to prep my car for autox and I've been doing a lot of research/reading on here (search is very helpful lol) but I need a few specific questions answered if possible.

First here's my setup:

96 dx hatch
stock motor (B18C5 by christmas if all goes according to plan)
back seats removed
Tenzo non-reclinable bucket seats
I/H/E
Eibach Sportline Springs (1.8")
new struts
all sway bars
short-throw shifter

right now Im running 14" steelies with cheap tires. I plan to test out this setup as is for about a month while I get used to the car under autox conditions. But I do plan on buying some 16" ( 5Zigen FN01R-C) by the middle/end of September. Would these rims be decent? What is my max tire width I can use?

Any tips, pointers, and/or a kick in the right direction would be great. I have no problem reading, just help me get to the material This is completely new to me. Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

I would first read the allowable modifications of whatever class you decide to enter (SCCA or NASA or whatever local group) and then build the car according to those rules. With your back seats out, you will probably be pushed into a SCCA prepared class (I could be wrong).

Depending on the situation, going with a larger diameter wheel is not necessarily always the best thing (even if your overall diameter stays the same).

 

I take it all that information can be found on their respective sites (SCCA or NASA)? Also, I forgot to mention that Im picking up the front and rear brakes from a 99 si the first weekend of September (payday lol).

Is it too much to ask to elaborate on your wheel opinion? Im looking to build this car strictly for the twisties. I really could care less about 1/4 time.

 

Well, you should probably chose which tire you want to run, then decide on wheels.

I, along with many others, run a 15x7 because you have plenty of choices of tires and said tires are a bit cheaper than 16's.

 

What do you recommend when it comes to tire width/brand? From a performance standpoint, are 5Zigens up to the task? Do you recommend another brand? I wouldn't mind going with 15" at all. I just started reading up on the sport so Im really new to all this. Mostly been just a casual tuner but now Im really interested in autox/rr. Much appreciation for the help.

 

go to autox, drive. worry about parts later. provided the car is road-worthy now, you're good to go.

 

oh its definitely road-worthy now, i've kept it in great condition. As stated before, I dont plan on buying wheels/tires for about 2 months (after i've taken to the autox a few times) but I would like to have my information straight when the time comes for the purchase. Prior planning prevents ****-poor peformance

 

This is probably in the FAQ's up above, but if I were you I would:
1) Go to an autocross and compete with my car as-is.
2) Go to another 2 or 3 autocrosses to make sure this is what I want to do
3) Review the classes and build a legal car according to the class.

#2 is important because if you are not hooked on autox, just modify your car to whatever pleases you and who cares about rules and classes. When you show up just run in whatever class is appropriate for your mods. If you are hooked on autox and want to be competitive in your class, then #3 is important.

I wouldn't even spend any money on tires or wheels or brakes or anything until doing the above.

 

even with the stock engine, the rear seats removed would put you in Street Modified class in SCCA
and once the B18C5 goes in you'd definitely be in Street Modified
i don't think you can remove anything in front of the rear seat(including the seat) in street prepared classes.
even in Street Modified you can only remove up to the rear seat (including the seat)
i just read yesterday they are going to adjust the minimum weight rule based more off engine displament. basically increasing the minimum weight cause of the lighter weights of the older FWD cars. (like civic EF hatcH) even though the E36 BMW's are already killing just about everyone

 

dont strip your car at all...

get soem good brake pads and good tires...azenis can fit on steelies too..

i always thought it was funnie when guys come out in their stripped to shyt car and still get owned by cars will ful interior stock as hell on just good tires


MOST IMPORTANT have fun.. and try to introduce yourselves to the faster guys that day and get some tips from them

 

doesn't really matter what class you are in. it's all about getting driving experience

though when you put the B18C5 in you are going to be VERY uncompetitive in Street Mod
you would definitely need some R compounds then.

put the back seats back in. run in STS with some Azenis. though you will still get murdered at first by all the 89 Si's . but the competition will make you want to improve more and more. it's mostly about driving skills. some of the best drivers in the DC region can run stock cars with shitty tires and kill alot of people running engine swaps and R compounds.

get some Azenis. sign up for some autox schools. go to as many events as possible. SCCA, local car clubs (national BWM clubs) etc.

 

thanks for all the replies. This weekend im going to dive into the rules/regulations. Right now Im reading a lot of info on suspension, body roll, tires, etc (im an IT guy in a telecommunication field so reading becomes a habit lol). Autox is something I've really wanted to do, but never had the means to do it. Fixing up my car is multi-purpose. All of it goes towards the final goal of having a very nice handling hatchy regardless of how far I take autox.

After reading quite a few threads from Bense, Im leaning towards a mildly built d16y8 (maybe a different head) supercharged. Not really looking for a monster motor. I just want the low-end torque and decent numbers (200hp) seem to be attainable. Plus, around here, those motors are a dime a dozen and then I can still drive my car and get the feel for it while I build the real motor on my free time. Which isnt much considering I work an hour from home, work 5 days, 9-5, and am on-call 24/7

My car is far from stripped down. The purpose of removing the rear seats was practical in a way. I got a set of non-reclinable bucket seats about 2 years ago from a close friend for free, so the backseats were virtually pointless. Everything else is still in which Im keeping that way unless I really get serious about it. At that point it will probably become race-only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmoments &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sign up for some autox schools. </TD></TR></TABLE>

already on that. A well-known community college close to me has an autox session once every other Saturday that I'll be attending. Also, depending on funds, the motorsports park close to me has a 3-day school. If I have the money ($3,990) for it, Im definitely attending.

 

well if u gonan superhcarge you might as well jsut get your b18c5 cause supercharging moves you up also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnameeh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if u gonan superhcarge you might as well jsut get your b18c5 cause supercharging moves you up also</TD></TR></TABLE>

low-end torque is what I want. With that setup its very practical with highway driving and it being a daily driver. Especially after reading this article

 

what are the torque numbers compared to a 1.8liter type r... i dont see how a supercharged motor is more practical then a bone stock type r motor, bu hey whatever floats your boat... just get out there and drive already

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSwapper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">already on that. A well-known community college close to me has an autox session once every other Saturday that I'll be attending. Also, depending on funds, the motorsports park close to me has a 3-day school. If I have the money ($3,990) for it, Im definitely attending.</TD></TR></TABLE>

$3990 is wayt oo much for autox school....

 

Im still doing a lot of research. I don't really want to try too hard defending it right now since more than likely Ill end up putting my foot in my mouth due to lack of experience (just being honest). From my very limited reading (starting last night at 11:30) the actual torque number isnt what Im really looking at. What Im looking at is how low in the rpms the majority of the torque is available. I saw a boosted civic d-series chart last night (ill have to search for it) that showed higher torque numbers than hp numbers at a relatively low rpm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnameeh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$3990 is wayt oo much for autox school....</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe, you can check it out at morosomotorsportspark.com under their road course section I believe. Gotta jet over to my bosses house, but I will be back on here around 6:30 for more reading. Hopefully I'll get a response from Bense on the email I sent him

 

well supercharging you D will put you in streed mod
right now that would put you at 1900lbs minimum
if you do the B18c5 naturally aspirated you could run minimum of 1800lbs
though with the little amount of items you can remove in SM (especially interior) i don't think you'd even be able to get to 1900lbs
the supercharger would definitely be nice on the D. you want good torque in autox.
plus will be a little bit lighter then the B series. actually with the S/C it might equal out in weight

just for a reference. the REDSHIFT EF civic (east coast, philly) runs a D16z6 , sleeved , to about 1.7 liters. no forced induction. and that thing is very hard to beat. though it has alot of head work and Hytech headers from what i've heard. so right there you're talking over $2000 for headers and headwork. probably closer to $2500

 

no. SCCA offers autox schools. they are 1 day
level 1,2,3

they are less then $200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnameeh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont see how a supercharged motor is more practical then a bone stock type r motor, bu hey whatever floats your boat... just get out there and drive already </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... trust me, I wish I could. When work settles down around here I'll be able to. Right now its all the planning/research phase. I read this thread last night which is where I got my thoughts kicking on the SC. 2700-3000rpm vtec engagement + sc = great low end torque. Im sure I can find a d16y5 around here as well as the y8 intake mani for dirt cheap. Plenty of friends (mechanics) around my area are pretty savvy with honda motors.

Heres that dyno from the boosted d16y5... more torque than horsepower. Id assume I wouldn't get as high in the numbers since the SC is belt-driven but the torque curve would be nicer right? Meaning a few more bucks into the motor itself and it should be fine or better.

Like I said, Im just thinking out loud. Please correct me if Im wrong anywhere. Im here to learn in a relatively short amount of time. Whether I go the more complex route of the d16y5, with y8 mani, ex tranny, etc or just go with the d16y8 motor/tranny, I feel the SC is a great benefit as a daily highway driver, very enjoyable, and something to start autox with whether it be seriously or leisurely