H23 with....

I/H/E,
stage 3 crower cams
rm s/r
dsm 450cc injectors
stock compression




short clip i made today:

http://media.putfile.com/prelude-cams-h23-honda


Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 11:32 AM 9/6/2006


Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 4:51 PM 9/23/2006

 

Nice. How is the idle?

 

looking good, what are you future plans ? stage 3's on the h23 sure do shine,

looks like you runing it a bit rich any reason? more power can be had if you lean it out a bit more.. good luck

 

the idle is fine just around 1000. I already have a spare block with a fresh hone and some jdm h22 pistons. But im not too sure if i want to use the pistons because i read on here somewhere that the jdm pistons with the smaller combustion chamber of the h23 head would result in a compression ratio of 12+. Where should i lean it out? You see, i can wrench just fine but tuning is a different story. Im still learning.

 

With your spare block you will run in the neighborhood of 12.25:1 CR on JDM H22 pistons, it can be done on 93 octane but I would not use an AFC to tune that compression. You will have about 11.5:1CR if you went with USDM H22A1 pistons and would much more manageable.

As far as tuning on your current engine since you are only running 9.8:1CR you should try for 13.2-13.5 air fuel ratio across the board. That should pick up a few ponies and smooth out the curve a little.

Pirate

*edit* miscalculation


Modified by PirateMcFred at 6:48 AM 8/10/2006

 

yea i'll have to try leaning the fuel a lil bit more and will look into getting a set of USDM h22a1 pistons. Wassup with the low replies? nobody like h series non-vtec motors?

 

how much did it cost you to do the build?

 

well... the cams, s/r, and supertech valves came to about 700 bucks. Got the injectors for free, afc is used $160, ebay intake $15, megan header $95, megan cat-back $250. so around 1220. not bad. I got the header, catback, and intake 3 years ago so those really don't count because i had no idea i was going the stage 3 route.


Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 8:49 PM 8/10/2006

 

And if I remember you paid over $300 for just those valves too. That must have hurt.

Don't let them get you down. If it is not B-series or K making over 220whp it hard to get people's attention in the All Motor forum. Just come back with some OS H22A1 pistons (tiny bit more displacement), do a quick bowl port / port match on the head while it is off, put in a 2.5" collector on that Megan and come back tuned with 175 wtq and 190 whp or more.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And if I remember you paid over $300 for just those valves too. That must have hurt.

Don't let them get you down. If it is not B-series or K making over 220whp it hard to get people's attention in the All Motor forum. Just come back with some OS H22A1 pistons (tiny bit more displacement), do a quick bowl port / port match on the head while it is off, put in a 2.5" collector on that Megan and come back tuned with 175 wtq and 190 whp or more.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>Its got my attention, imo it would be something nice n cheap to put together during the winter time that can lay down some awsome numbers.But i have a Q, why not just add a h22 head to it?

 

yeah!!

love to see a great f22b/h23 dohc dyno..I have a f22b dohc in my beater and like to see what they can do in allmotor performance

 

Good luck! I like seeing unusual builds, and especially the H23's. If I wasnt broke from buying a house, i would built one just to see what I could get it to do.

Listen to Pirate, he has a nice setup.

 

just picked up a fidanza flywheel. Now i have to get the the crankshaft cleaned up a bit. Maybe a micropolish and a knife edge cut. If i can find a good shop around here that can do crankshaft work properly, a knife edge will not be a problem. If any of you have stock h22a1 pistons that you don't want anymore or selling lemme know.

Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 2:12 PM 8/21/2006


Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 2:13 PM 8/21/2006

 

to me it looks like you could pick up some power from 3800-5k by leaning it out some. seems to dip in that area where you go real rich. possibly the same deal up top... did you do any cam gear tuning? to me your TQ seems peaky, cam gears can help that.

 

I am just wondering why 450cc's injectors? Definitely overkill for that output you have there. Secondly, that's too much cam for stock H23 compression.

Bump in compression, some headwork....you might need them injectors and post another dyno sheet.

 

well PirateMcFred told me that i would need injectors bigger than stock, had some dsm injectors around so i slapped them on. Yes, these cams are a bit much for stock compression but it works just fine. I have cam gears but will wait till i put my block in for those.

 

well if your using a vafc to idle those 450's your really messing up your timing doing so. personally on my setup changing timing from teh stock map didnt help power at all, it only hurt it. seriously find something better than a vafc to tune. its not meant for larger injectors.

i would also highly recomend cam gears being on the next time you tune.

 

yea, i don't like using the safc but it will have to do for now till i get the hardware i need to tune my ecu. Im sure i only need a pocketprogrammer correct me if i'm wrong. JCushing Are you using hondata? You're af ratio looks good.


Modified by 92bluepreludeSi at 3:41 PM 8/21/2006

 

uberdata, but ill prolly be switching to chrome when i switch out injectors

 

Ya, CROME is getting better. The PGMFI guys have figured out a lot of the problems with big injectors, I just hope CROME doesn't steal the show and turn into another proprietary system... I notice he is charging for it now. The stock honda ECU is capable of doing everything you need, it should not cost you tons of money to make it work right IMHO. Good luck on the upcomming mods!

 

have you looked at what you get for free with chrome? its a steal for only 150 for crome pro but the free one still gives you ALOT! the ITB tools some fancy boost crap and all the basic features just no datalogging.

 

pgmfi.ORG is a community effort. I think John Cui needs to remember that. I can go download linux for free... but we digress.

 

crome pro is designed for the person interested in making money with it. that would be the other reason you have to pay for it. it is not ethical to charge someone with software you gor for free. the free version although i wish datalogged is certainly enough for the personal hobbiest

sorry for gettin ot

 

hey its cool... as long as it's not about anything stupid. So the only thing different from crome and crome pro is datalogging? what would you guys recommend to tune a chip with hardware wise? like pocketprogrammer... ostrich... ect.

 

tuning realtime will really really shorten the amount of time you spend tuning. doing part throttle on the street with a wideband is a PITA if your just burning chips like i do.

http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=4383 for more info on crome. its a really nice interface, being able to change culumn values, cut and paste ect are some simple things that set it way beyond uberdata.

as far as a programmer goes it depends on what your using to tune with (laptop/pc) pick whatever works hardware wise and is cheap. im using a willem one and it works great. now you have to understand these programs are designed around base roms like pr3 p72 ect not H series programs. just something to keep in mind.

seriously keep in mind though that when you trim your map signal with a vafc to accomidate for the larger injectors your probably trimming what 30-40 percent map signal on the vafc. this is going to make the computer think there is 30-40 percent less air in the cyl than there actually is and the timing is going to be way advanced. for example on a arbitrary point on a stock LS ignition map that would be about equivelant 7 degrees advanced on the distributor. this is a dynamic figure bout would you run the distributor at 23 degrees base timing? hell no. it might be ok now but this is BAD when you start raising the compression.