I just converted to obd1 on my lsvtec from obd0-obd1. I used a rywire conversion harness and rywire dizzy conversion plugs. Since my car was already wired up for vtec I had to wire it back to stock. Which wasnt too hard. Here is part of a write up im doing on it showing what all i did so far.

I sourced the ecu from http://www.phearable.net/chippedecus.html
I also bought a obd0-obd1 conversion harness as well as a obd0-obd1 distributor plug conversion harness from http://rywire.com/store/obd0-o...bfb9d
I bought a 4 wire o2 sensor from ebay for about 35 bucks. But come to find out that I dont need it with the ecu I got from phearable. So Im putting that up for sale. I got an obd1 distributor from ebay as well for about 130 bucks brand spankin new.
Now for the conversion it sucks because it is already wired up to have vtec. So I will have to wire it back up to be stock. It shouldnt take too long. Just some solder and shrink tube and its good. Plug and play rocks. I will be rewireing everything with black wire to be a bit more invisable. And i will be using my one wire o2 sensor plug as the vtec solenoid plug because i dont have one for mine. It will look a lot more clean with black wire and the plug.

So first I had to figure out where all the wires went to from my ecu wires.


This is the first wire I cut and followed into the engine bay.


I followed it all the way to the vtec pressure switch.


The second wire I wanted to figure out was this weird black wire that was rigged into the smallest black plug.



I cut it and followed it to one of my two o2 sensors. I dont need the o2s any more because of my chipped p28 ecu. So I ripped it out the the plug and clipped the wire on the o2 sensor.

The third wire I cut was the yellow wire on the biggest ecu plug.


I followed that to the vtec solenoid.


This last wire I cut and followed to the knock sensor. So I cut that off since I also dont need that with my chipped p28.


So after I followed all those I trimmed down the wires and resoldered it back to their original place.


Now i finally got the distributor and its a td44. and i put the spark plug wires back in the correct firing order 3 4
1 2
The car started right up and had no problem. It idled around 1300 for cold start and it went down as it warmed up. Then i did an ignition timing check after it warmed all the way up and I put it in the middle line on the three marks.

So then i took it out for a ride. But at first it jumped a couple times as i tried to go. Seemed weird and i turned around and used a little gas and it just felt like it was bogging. So i pulled over in my parking lot and looked and everything sounded and looked fine. So i pulled out and drove it around and it just boggs at part throttle but at wot it flys. When I got back home I wanted to check my ignition timing again so i started it up and the idle surged for about 10 seconds up to about 2,500 and back down. Then it ran smooth, and I checked the ignition timing and it was still at the same place. Does anyone have any ideas???

 

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my god someone please help. I drove it around again and it really doesnt like part throttle. It just really bogs and hesitates. But when i floor it it runs great.

 

im sure someone has SOME ideas

 

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I need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

do you guys think advancing or retarding my ignition timing might help?

 

Well i used a paper clip on that plug and adjusted my ignition timing to about 17 degrees. I didnt know what the hell happened because when i tried to drive my car it was acting REALLY weird. every time i let off the gas it would jerk. It kept doing that. but at the same time it didnt have that hesitation problem. So i adjusted it back to 16 degrees and drove that. It still acted weird. I was so ****** pissed i just floored it and red lined it. Then something happened. It had no power and it sounded like a ****** harley. It was like du du du du du du du. I just wanted to kill someone. But i pulled over and saw that my #4 plug on the dizzy was disconnected. So i plugged that back it in and now its fine. But it still has that hesitation. So im going to go back home and adjust it back up to 17 degrees and see what happens.

 

Hey wanna sell ur obd0 to obd1 harness u bought i really need one an dont wanna pay lots

 

ummmmm no... im currently using it on my car. But if you do get one I would recomend getting one at rywire.com

dont get that cheap crap off of ebay because you will most likely have problems with it and have to rewire it which is a bitch.

 

someone please help him as this would help me too...i have the same harness and i'm not looking foward to this problem with my ls/vtec build

 

what harness do you have? because i have rywire. and its not the harness thats the problem. if its rywire then it should be perfect. Its just my ecu that is messed up

 

I have the Rywire as well. i'll be running a P30.

have you tried swapping in another ecu?

 

already did that. I used my friends ecu and it worked perfect. Im waiting for a different chip to put in and see if that works

 

so i got some new chips in. One is the itr program and the other was a b16 type program. So I tried the itr chip first and it felt better. But as I drove around it didnt feel right. I could still feel the hesitation. Almost like a studder. So I tried the b16 chip and it felt like crap like the chip i had in there to begin with. Im thinking its fuel related. I had a problem like this and it ended up being the o2 sensor and still had a studder problem and it was the fuel filter. Could it be the old *** ob0 injectors? I just bought a new header that accepts an o2 sensor at the collector. Once I get that in and wired up Im going to head down to a shop and get them to activate the o2 sensor **** in the program.

 

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Well, I recieved my 4-1 header in the mail today. I bought it because I really need the o2 sensor at the collector. But what I didnt expect was it to not clear the crossmember!!! That was an unexpected delay. But with a grinder and reciprical saw I got the job done. It took a while but its in. I do need to get my car down the the exhaust shop to get the header matched up with the exhaust though. I will post some pictures up tomorrow of how it all looks. Its not the prettiest thing ever, but the header clears. I was a little worried because Im leaving for the track in 2 days and I really needed that new header in.

 

Well. There is good news and bad news. I got to the dyno and figured out a 2 things. One was that my ecu is ****, or atleast the chip is. It makes me run hella lean which really sucks because it might have fucked some **** up in my block because my car is starting to spew white and blue/white smoke out my exhaust. Its not good. The guys at the dyno didnt know what it smelled like and they didnt know what it might be. They said since im running so lean that i might have cracked something since I have over heated since I got the chip. I used that ecu on the first run just to see what was up with it. And with the air/fuel ratio I was off the scale on lean when it was floored. It was at 18, and thats all it could go up on the dyno jet. I was rather pissed. On that run they went to about 6800 and it made 129 hp and 113 tq.
On the second run I used my friends chipped p28 with an itr chip in it and it ran nice. The air to fuel was pretty damn good. On that run it got 159 hp and 118 tq. They did another run and it made 161 hp and 118 tq. It was a bit less than I expected but they said that if I had tuning I would be making a lot more power. So Im going to get hondata and get a fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors. So those are my new plans. Im not too sure if its either the programs or the ecu. A honda guy that I talked to at the shop I went to looked at it and he said some of the solders werent flowing through the board, so he touched up on some and he also said that at one solder point there was a copper discoloration which ment that they left the solder gun on there too long and it burnt through the protective layering. He said that might be the reason Im running so lean, but it also might not be doing anything at all. I will be switching the chip between me and my friends ecu because i run perfect with his ecu so im going to switch it so I can see if its the ecu or the programs phearable sent.

 

I went and changed the chip out of my friends ecu and put it in mine and it seemed to run fine. So im guessing the chips I got have bad programs or something.

 

So my friends friend has a chip burner and he came into town and we burned a new chip with a gsr map at 10% more fuel across the board and vtec at 4900. And it works perfect. I have nothing wrong with phearable. they seemed to do a pretty good job chipping it and everything but at the same time i dont understand how 3 of their chips with programs didnt work on my car. Maybe their chips are just bad. I dont know. I just hope that other people dont have the same problem with their chips as i did.