Need Instructions on CV boot removal.
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Need Instructions on CV boot removal.
Ok, So this is my first teg it's a 94 Rs, and i have to replace the out CV boot on the passenger front side. It seem's fairly straight forward So i'm just looking for some instruction (step by step) on how to do it properly.. Thanks.
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From: SacraMEGA, CA, USA
Re: Need Instructions on CV boot removal. (Vitesse)
Just cut the boot with a razor knife down the middle, get a boot replacement and grease with a clamp, a clamp set and install the new boot 
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Trial User
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From: Canada
Re: Need Instructions on CV boot removal. (Lan)
So much hassle for a 14$ part..
Just replaced a trailing arm bushing with a prothane one.. did one arm.. got to the 2nd arm... snapped the head off the last bolt
; there's still hope (another bolt i can remove to let the arm hang down.
Just replaced a trailing arm bushing with a prothane one.. did one arm.. got to the 2nd arm... snapped the head off the last bolt
; there's still hope (another bolt i can remove to let the arm hang down.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 390
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
Don't get just a replacement boot. Those are complete crap. Replace the axle.
To do this, you will need to remove the nut on the axle holding it to the hub while the car is on the ground. After you break the nut loose, you can jack the car up, take the wheel off, and remove the castle nut and cotter pin from the lower control arm. After you separate the lower ball joint from the hub, this will allow you to rotate the hub assembly outward for removal of the axle. Just pull on the axle and it will pop right out.
Install is reverse of what I just said. Make sure you tighten the axle nut with the car on the ground and that it is to proper specs.
Forgive me if I left anything out because it's been a while since I've had to change an axle.
To do this, you will need to remove the nut on the axle holding it to the hub while the car is on the ground. After you break the nut loose, you can jack the car up, take the wheel off, and remove the castle nut and cotter pin from the lower control arm. After you separate the lower ball joint from the hub, this will allow you to rotate the hub assembly outward for removal of the axle. Just pull on the axle and it will pop right out.
Install is reverse of what I just said. Make sure you tighten the axle nut with the car on the ground and that it is to proper specs.
Forgive me if I left anything out because it's been a while since I've had to change an axle.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 377
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From: SoCal, Cali, united states
Re: (skunked)
Ever hear a clicking noise when you turn?
Ever feel a vibration only when you're acclerating?
Chances are that you need a new axle. The first thing you'd need to do before you go pulling an axle out of your car is figure out which axle is bad if both aren't. Symtoms of a bad axel would be:
1. Torn boot with grease slinging out. ( :hammerDUH:hammer )
2. One side or the other vibrating upon hitting the gas. This indicates a broken or worn inner joint.
So after you figure out which one (or both) needs replacing you can begin.
I've taken some pics of various tools that you will need in order to swap an axle. I work at a shop so air was available to me, but for you at home there might not be some tools pictured here that you will need - I'll get to that in a minute.
32mm socket
19mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench or additional socket
1/2'' driver for big sockets
3/8'' driver for drain plug/sockets
hammer
dykes
prybar
*big-*** breaker/cheater bar for the 1/2'' driver to break the axle nut loose and tighten it back down*
*Optional*
Depending on tranny you might have to drain and fill the tranny. I make this a common practice every time I swap an axle and I recommend that you do too. In my tutorial I will detail how to drain and fill the tranny. If doing so add these things:
3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF (you won't use all 3 - B-Series takes like 2.5 qts.)
Long funnel
crush washer for drian plug (get it from Honda - same one as your engine oil drain plug)
10mm socket with LONG extention
driver for 10mm socket/extension
Here we see the various tools laid out. Missing from the pic is the big-*** breaker car for you at home that will need it for the 32mm axle nut. Also missing are the funnel and 10mm socket.extention/driver combo for the drain/fill procedure. I has air tools available so I used them.
Close-up of cotter pin (you'll only need one) and drain plug washer
Drivers and 17mm end wrench:
32mm, 19mm, and 17mm sockets:
And if you're lucky and have tools a 1/2'' impact will be very helpful:
Okay so let's get started.
1. Take the 19mm socket and break your wheel lugs loose. they will be hard as hell to break loose if you've already got the car in the air.
*For those without an impact*
It has been brought to my attention that if you are using a 32mm socket with a 1/2'' driver and a big-*** breaker bat you might want to break the 32mm axle end nut loose while the car is still on the ground. Hopefully you can access the nut with the wheel still on, because if not you'll have to get someone to sit in the car and hold the brakes on with the engine on in hopes that the wheel won't turn while you try to break the 32mm nut loose.
2. Jack up the car and secure it on a STABLE set of jackstands. I used a lift so sorry, no pics.
3. Locate the drain plug and use a 3/8'' driver with no socket and remive the drain plug:
Replace the drain plug washer and tighten the drain plug back after draining is complete. I didn't do this until later on because I waited to drain the tranny until right before prying out the axle, but I recommend doing this first at home and then tightening the plug back until you feel/hear the washer crush. This insures no leakage during work and also so that you remember to drain and tighthen the plug up before you start the real work.
4. Remove the wheel and look for the 32mm axle end nut. Yeah the pic sucks.
5. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm socket. At home you will need a breaker bar or cheater bar to get much-needed leverage to break this bastatrd loose. I used an impact.
6. Now find the cotter pin lovated on the 17mm castle nut below the lower balljoint and remove it by unfolding it with your dykes:
7. Now take the 17mm socket and remove the 17mm castle nut from the lower balljoint. Yes this pic sucks too.
8. Now take your hammer and beat on the lower control arm where the hammer head is in this pic. This will break the balljoint loose. The pics get better sometime.
9. Now locate the through bolt that holds the lower strut "fork" to the lower control arm:
10. Using a 17mm socket on one side and either a 17mm wrench or another socket to hold the other side, remove the through bolt .
11. Now take your hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the end of the axle to get it free from the spindle:
12. Now pull the lower strut fork to the side and it should all look like this:
13. Now you're ready to pry the axle out. Take the prybar and position like so in the pic and pry. You might want to secure the spindle out of the way so it doesn't hold the axle in:
14. Compare your new axle to the one you pulled out and make sure the new axle is correct. The old axle might not "look" bad, but in this case here the shaft is actually broken in half inside the outer boot.
15. Now you're ready to put the new one in. Simply reverse the removal procedure. First get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in. Make SURE that the inner joint is all the way in and butted up against the tranny casing fully.
16. Here's where steps can be swapped around, but I did mine in this order. Put the lower balljoint back into the lower control arm and slide the outer splines back into the spindle - finger tighten the 32mm axle nut on so the axle doesn't pop back out while you do other work.
17. Now you're ready to line up the lower strut fork with the lower control arm to put the through bolt in. It helps to tighten the lower balljoint 17mm castlenut first. Replace the cotter pin too! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Remember to tighten the 17mm castlenut in a manner so that you can slide the new cotter pin in.
18. Push up on the lower control arm and slide the through bolt in plave and put the 17mm nut on the end:
19. Using two 17mm sockets or whatever combo you choose, tighten the through bolt:
20. Now tighten the 32mm axle end nut. If you have no air tools then use the breaker bar and tighten it up pretty snug. STAKE THE NUT DOWN! Use the hammer and something flat to make an indention in the nut like pictured:
So the new axle is in. Time to fill the tranny. There's a few schools of thought on how to fill the tranny, but this methid here is by far the least messy and to me the easiest.
*Optional* Find the fill plug. It is seen here right next to the inner joint of the axle. It has a crush washer so if you loose it your'e screwed. Honda doesn't usually sotck this one. I chose not to loosen my fill plug because I know my tranny takse 2.5 qts., but the way you fill it is to fill until fluid dribbles from the fill hole so this is optional if it makes you feel better.
Here's where the trick comes in that will save you headahces. Usually you have to ghetto-rig a funnel and tube to fill the tranny in the fill hole which really sucks. My method is really easy.
1. Remove the vent cap found near the front/top of your tranny:
2. Find the Speed sensor located on the topside of the very back of your tranny:
3. Take the 10mm on a big-*** extension and remove the bolt (it's the orangish one in my pic - yours probably won't be oragnish):
4. Now see that big-*** hole left after you move the speed sensor out of the way? Use the funnel and fill through that hole! By the way, no need to unplug the speed sensor - just move it out of the way.
5. Fill up with specified amount or until fluid dribbles from the fill hole below.
6. Put the speed sensor back in, tighten up the fill plug (if you loosened it).
7. Replace the vent cap and you're done!
Now put your wheel back on, torque the lugs to spec with a torque wrench and take your car for a test drive!
I will check later for typos, but for now I have to run. Hope this helps you all with axle questions!
Ever feel a vibration only when you're acclerating?
Chances are that you need a new axle. The first thing you'd need to do before you go pulling an axle out of your car is figure out which axle is bad if both aren't. Symtoms of a bad axel would be:
1. Torn boot with grease slinging out. ( :hammerDUH:hammer )
2. One side or the other vibrating upon hitting the gas. This indicates a broken or worn inner joint.
So after you figure out which one (or both) needs replacing you can begin.
I've taken some pics of various tools that you will need in order to swap an axle. I work at a shop so air was available to me, but for you at home there might not be some tools pictured here that you will need - I'll get to that in a minute.
32mm socket
19mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench or additional socket
1/2'' driver for big sockets
3/8'' driver for drain plug/sockets
hammer
dykes
prybar
*big-*** breaker/cheater bar for the 1/2'' driver to break the axle nut loose and tighten it back down*
*Optional*
Depending on tranny you might have to drain and fill the tranny. I make this a common practice every time I swap an axle and I recommend that you do too. In my tutorial I will detail how to drain and fill the tranny. If doing so add these things:
3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF (you won't use all 3 - B-Series takes like 2.5 qts.)
Long funnel
crush washer for drian plug (get it from Honda - same one as your engine oil drain plug)
10mm socket with LONG extention
driver for 10mm socket/extension
Here we see the various tools laid out. Missing from the pic is the big-*** breaker car for you at home that will need it for the 32mm axle nut. Also missing are the funnel and 10mm socket.extention/driver combo for the drain/fill procedure. I has air tools available so I used them.
Close-up of cotter pin (you'll only need one) and drain plug washer
Drivers and 17mm end wrench:
32mm, 19mm, and 17mm sockets:
And if you're lucky and have tools a 1/2'' impact will be very helpful:
Okay so let's get started.
1. Take the 19mm socket and break your wheel lugs loose. they will be hard as hell to break loose if you've already got the car in the air.
*For those without an impact*
It has been brought to my attention that if you are using a 32mm socket with a 1/2'' driver and a big-*** breaker bat you might want to break the 32mm axle end nut loose while the car is still on the ground. Hopefully you can access the nut with the wheel still on, because if not you'll have to get someone to sit in the car and hold the brakes on with the engine on in hopes that the wheel won't turn while you try to break the 32mm nut loose.
2. Jack up the car and secure it on a STABLE set of jackstands. I used a lift so sorry, no pics.
3. Locate the drain plug and use a 3/8'' driver with no socket and remive the drain plug:
Replace the drain plug washer and tighten the drain plug back after draining is complete. I didn't do this until later on because I waited to drain the tranny until right before prying out the axle, but I recommend doing this first at home and then tightening the plug back until you feel/hear the washer crush. This insures no leakage during work and also so that you remember to drain and tighthen the plug up before you start the real work.
4. Remove the wheel and look for the 32mm axle end nut. Yeah the pic sucks.
5. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm socket. At home you will need a breaker bar or cheater bar to get much-needed leverage to break this bastatrd loose. I used an impact.
6. Now find the cotter pin lovated on the 17mm castle nut below the lower balljoint and remove it by unfolding it with your dykes:
7. Now take the 17mm socket and remove the 17mm castle nut from the lower balljoint. Yes this pic sucks too.
8. Now take your hammer and beat on the lower control arm where the hammer head is in this pic. This will break the balljoint loose. The pics get better sometime.
9. Now locate the through bolt that holds the lower strut "fork" to the lower control arm:
10. Using a 17mm socket on one side and either a 17mm wrench or another socket to hold the other side, remove the through bolt .
11. Now take your hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the end of the axle to get it free from the spindle:
12. Now pull the lower strut fork to the side and it should all look like this:
13. Now you're ready to pry the axle out. Take the prybar and position like so in the pic and pry. You might want to secure the spindle out of the way so it doesn't hold the axle in:
14. Compare your new axle to the one you pulled out and make sure the new axle is correct. The old axle might not "look" bad, but in this case here the shaft is actually broken in half inside the outer boot.
15. Now you're ready to put the new one in. Simply reverse the removal procedure. First get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in. Make SURE that the inner joint is all the way in and butted up against the tranny casing fully.
16. Here's where steps can be swapped around, but I did mine in this order. Put the lower balljoint back into the lower control arm and slide the outer splines back into the spindle - finger tighten the 32mm axle nut on so the axle doesn't pop back out while you do other work.
17. Now you're ready to line up the lower strut fork with the lower control arm to put the through bolt in. It helps to tighten the lower balljoint 17mm castlenut first. Replace the cotter pin too! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Remember to tighten the 17mm castlenut in a manner so that you can slide the new cotter pin in.
18. Push up on the lower control arm and slide the through bolt in plave and put the 17mm nut on the end:
19. Using two 17mm sockets or whatever combo you choose, tighten the through bolt:
20. Now tighten the 32mm axle end nut. If you have no air tools then use the breaker bar and tighten it up pretty snug. STAKE THE NUT DOWN! Use the hammer and something flat to make an indention in the nut like pictured:
So the new axle is in. Time to fill the tranny. There's a few schools of thought on how to fill the tranny, but this methid here is by far the least messy and to me the easiest.
*Optional* Find the fill plug. It is seen here right next to the inner joint of the axle. It has a crush washer so if you loose it your'e screwed. Honda doesn't usually sotck this one. I chose not to loosen my fill plug because I know my tranny takse 2.5 qts., but the way you fill it is to fill until fluid dribbles from the fill hole so this is optional if it makes you feel better.
Here's where the trick comes in that will save you headahces. Usually you have to ghetto-rig a funnel and tube to fill the tranny in the fill hole which really sucks. My method is really easy.
1. Remove the vent cap found near the front/top of your tranny:
2. Find the Speed sensor located on the topside of the very back of your tranny:
3. Take the 10mm on a big-*** extension and remove the bolt (it's the orangish one in my pic - yours probably won't be oragnish):
4. Now see that big-*** hole left after you move the speed sensor out of the way? Use the funnel and fill through that hole! By the way, no need to unplug the speed sensor - just move it out of the way.
5. Fill up with specified amount or until fluid dribbles from the fill hole below.
6. Put the speed sensor back in, tighten up the fill plug (if you loosened it).
7. Replace the vent cap and you're done!
Now put your wheel back on, torque the lugs to spec with a torque wrench and take your car for a test drive!
I will check later for typos, but for now I have to run. Hope this helps you all with axle questions!
Re: (Vitesse)
I've done a couple. It's a bit of a long explanation because there are a few intracacies within the procedure.
If you follow the instructions in the manual, it's a good guide to follow.
Make sure you have the right tool for the right kind of CV boot band. There are probably three different kinds of bands and each one needs a different tool.
Use silicone spray on the boot and band to keep the band from tearing/cutting into the boot when tightening the band.
If you follow the instructions in the manual, it's a good guide to follow.
Make sure you have the right tool for the right kind of CV boot band. There are probably three different kinds of bands and each one needs a different tool.
Use silicone spray on the boot and band to keep the band from tearing/cutting into the boot when tightening the band.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: SoCal, Cali, united states
Re: (vinai)
Thats for replacing the whole axle so just use the steps you need to get to the boot and then replace it and go in reverse. Their is an article on here somwere with the exact same info and pics. You have to search to find it. I'm to lazy to look for it. Thanks to B18C5-EH2... I think this is his.
Re: (DrakeMK3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go buy a new axle, and while your at the store get yourself a repair manual for future reference.
repalcing the boot is cheaper but more work and just a band aid fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the axle isnt all messed up yet why replace the whole thing? and those reman axles they sell at the parts stores are ******* garbage. i dont know about you but i dont like changing axles every few months. i would rather keep my oem axle if possible.
i did this to the inner boot for one of my axles and it was an cheap and easy fix. it was just starting to tear and leak grease and wasnt making noise, so i caught it just in time. all you need is the boot kit which comes with everything: the grease, the boot and the bands. you will need a special tool to crimp the bands, but you can rent one at autozone. i have been driving the car with replacement boot for about 6 months with no signs of leaking or deterioration of any kind. **** it still looks new.
i used the helms manual procedure.
you can get one here:
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
you have to register to download the manuals.
repalcing the boot is cheaper but more work and just a band aid fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the axle isnt all messed up yet why replace the whole thing? and those reman axles they sell at the parts stores are ******* garbage. i dont know about you but i dont like changing axles every few months. i would rather keep my oem axle if possible.
i did this to the inner boot for one of my axles and it was an cheap and easy fix. it was just starting to tear and leak grease and wasnt making noise, so i caught it just in time. all you need is the boot kit which comes with everything: the grease, the boot and the bands. you will need a special tool to crimp the bands, but you can rent one at autozone. i have been driving the car with replacement boot for about 6 months with no signs of leaking or deterioration of any kind. **** it still looks new.
i used the helms manual procedure.
you can get one here:
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
you have to register to download the manuals.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: SoCal, Cali, united states
Re: Need Instructions on CV boot removal. (Vitesse)
Everybody seems to have trouble with it some time or another, and every time somebody brings up the we-todd-did method of using a 1/2" drive ratchet to pop the balljoint, nobody seems to understand how it works.
So, I put together something for everybody to reference later on and hopefully we'll never have to see another post about how to pop a lower balljoint.
Set up the jack and jack up the lower control arm until you can get the ratchet in b/w the knuckle and the LCA.
Insert the 1/2" drive ratchet so that it's as square as possible to the surfaces it's sitting on. This is to ensure that the ratchet won't flop out prematurely.
Front side - hopefully everybody can see how the ratchet sits. The perspective is a little skewed and blocked.
Back side
Finished: THE END
No muss. No fuss. And, no busted balljoint boots.
This is not mine either thanks to whoever put this together I found it usefull
This should be on HT too somwere once again to lazy to look it up
So, I put together something for everybody to reference later on and hopefully we'll never have to see another post about how to pop a lower balljoint.
Set up the jack and jack up the lower control arm until you can get the ratchet in b/w the knuckle and the LCA.
Insert the 1/2" drive ratchet so that it's as square as possible to the surfaces it's sitting on. This is to ensure that the ratchet won't flop out prematurely.
Front side - hopefully everybody can see how the ratchet sits. The perspective is a little skewed and blocked.
Back side
Finished: THE END
No muss. No fuss. And, no busted balljoint boots.
This is not mine either thanks to whoever put this together I found it usefull
This should be on HT too somwere once again to lazy to look it up
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,464
Likes: 0
From: NOR CAL
Re: (THE LORD OF CHAOS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE LORD OF CHAOS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if the axle isnt all messed up yet why replace the whole thing? and those reman axles they sell at the parts stores are ******* garbage. i dont know about you but i dont like changing axles every few months. i would rather keep my oem axle if possible.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
if the axle isnt all messed up yet why replace the whole thing? and those reman axles they sell at the parts stores are ******* garbage. i dont know about you but i dont like changing axles every few months. i would rather keep my oem axle if possible.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
Thread Starter
Trial User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Re: (skunked)
the axel is fine.. the mechanic i took it to, to get cert. is a loser.. there's no damage that myself and another mechanic can see.. it's full of grease and in tact and ZERO clicking... i just ahve to replace for the car to safety
What do you think about split boot's .. didnt know they actually existed.. are they reliable?
What do you think about split boot's .. didnt know they actually existed.. are they reliable?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,464
Likes: 0
From: NOR CAL
Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vitesse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you think about split boot's .. didnt know they actually existed.. are they reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
read what I said above.
Like I said it's not worth the time IMO. Most shops won't even replace the boot just because the labor is more to replace the boot than a reman axle cost is. Furthermore, to say all remans are junk is not true
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vitesse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you think about split boot's .. didnt know they actually existed.. are they reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
read what I said above.
Like I said it's not worth the time IMO. Most shops won't even replace the boot just because the labor is more to replace the boot than a reman axle cost is. Furthermore, to say all remans are junk is not true
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: SoCal, Cali, united states
Re: (skunked)
I'm using a split boot cuz I did not have any tools to get the job done and since december of last year same boot and two trips to socal from beaverton so well over 6k miles and no problems yet. not even a drop of grease has come out. When I get my wheel bearing I'm going to replace it.
Re: (Vitesse)
I helped a friend use a split boot once before and I hated them. They liked to ooze grease out of the seam when banding it. They seem to work ok, but I still recommend one that isn't a split design.
When you put the outer joint back on and roll the boot over the lip, you have to watch the amount of air that gets trapped inside the boot. It shouldn't bulge and it shouldn't be sucking in either. I had a problem with it having too little air the first time I did it.
When you put the outer joint back on and roll the boot over the lip, you have to watch the amount of air that gets trapped inside the boot. It shouldn't bulge and it shouldn't be sucking in either. I had a problem with it having too little air the first time I did it.
Thread Starter
Trial User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 449
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From: Canada
Re: (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had a problem with it having too little air the first time I did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What was the eventual problem due to lack of air or air pressure?..I'm guessing it wasn't tight enough on the seal's creating a leak??
p.s. - suggestions on method of cleaning the joint before installing the new boot?
What was the eventual problem due to lack of air or air pressure?..I'm guessing it wasn't tight enough on the seal's creating a leak??
p.s. - suggestions on method of cleaning the joint before installing the new boot?
Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, if the whole boot is fuxored and the bearings are dry and/or caked with dirt, then it is not worth it--just replace the whole thing. mine wasnt running dry, it had a small crack in the boot that was beginning to leak grease. when i opened it up the grease was not contaminated and there was plenty of it. it worked out pretty well for me, it think i spent like $15 and it only took like 2 hours tops to complete the whole job.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Like I said it's not worth the time IMO. Most shops won't even replace the boot just because the labor is more to replace the boot than a reman axle cost is. Furthermore, to say all remans are junk is not true
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are correct most shops wont do it, but this guy want to do it himself right?
yes not all of them are garbage, i actually found a local shop someone recommended to me that does quality remans with a warranty, so when i need an axle i will go them. however almost every one i bought from autozone or checker has crapped out in less than a year. maybe you have had better luck than me, or maybe you found a place that does good remans..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using a split boot cuz I did not have any tools to get the job done and since december of last year same boot and two trips to socal from beaverton so well over 6k miles and no problems yet. not even a drop of grease has come out. When I get my wheel bearing I'm going to replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont use a split boot, they really suck. do it the right way. if you are going to do that you might as well just replace the whole axle.
Modified by THE LORD OF CHAOS at 4:45 PM 8/8/2006
If your driving around without grease damge is occuring.
I know all about axles and have done both. Warranty>No Warranty
Not worth the time and mess IMO.
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yes, if the whole boot is fuxored and the bearings are dry and/or caked with dirt, then it is not worth it--just replace the whole thing. mine wasnt running dry, it had a small crack in the boot that was beginning to leak grease. when i opened it up the grease was not contaminated and there was plenty of it. it worked out pretty well for me, it think i spent like $15 and it only took like 2 hours tops to complete the whole job.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Like I said it's not worth the time IMO. Most shops won't even replace the boot just because the labor is more to replace the boot than a reman axle cost is. Furthermore, to say all remans are junk is not true
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you are correct most shops wont do it, but this guy want to do it himself right?
yes not all of them are garbage, i actually found a local shop someone recommended to me that does quality remans with a warranty, so when i need an axle i will go them. however almost every one i bought from autozone or checker has crapped out in less than a year. maybe you have had better luck than me, or maybe you found a place that does good remans..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using a split boot cuz I did not have any tools to get the job done and since december of last year same boot and two trips to socal from beaverton so well over 6k miles and no problems yet. not even a drop of grease has come out. When I get my wheel bearing I'm going to replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont use a split boot, they really suck. do it the right way. if you are going to do that you might as well just replace the whole axle.
Modified by THE LORD OF CHAOS at 4:45 PM 8/8/2006
Re: (Vitesse)
If the boot is ballooned, it won't be able to flex with the CV joint and it could blow a hole in the boot eventually or limit the joint from its full range of motion.
A sucked in boot won't allow the boot to move enough with the driveshaft. It'll probably wear faster and tear the boot sooner.
Use a known good for comparison of where to set the boot before banding it.
I try to save any OEM axles that I have in my possession as often as possible by rebooting if possible because a good, used set is really hard to come by. All of the aftermarket Autozone, Napa, Carquest stuff is junk IMO and they usually fail three to four times as frequently as the OEM axles.
P.S. Use a bunch of clean, red shop rags to clean out the parts, then throw them away. I'm lucky enough to work at a dealership where the Cintas people clean all the rags for us, no matter what's on them.
A sucked in boot won't allow the boot to move enough with the driveshaft. It'll probably wear faster and tear the boot sooner.
Use a known good for comparison of where to set the boot before banding it.
I try to save any OEM axles that I have in my possession as often as possible by rebooting if possible because a good, used set is really hard to come by. All of the aftermarket Autozone, Napa, Carquest stuff is junk IMO and they usually fail three to four times as frequently as the OEM axles.
P.S. Use a bunch of clean, red shop rags to clean out the parts, then throw them away. I'm lucky enough to work at a dealership where the Cintas people clean all the rags for us, no matter what's on them.
Re: (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I try to save any OEM axles that I have in my possession as often as possible by rebooting if possible because a good, used set is really hard to come by. All of the aftermarket Autozone, Napa, Carquest stuff is junk IMO and they usually fail three to four times as frequently as the OEM axles.
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^ exactly what i have been saying, thank you.
unless you like changing axles steer clear of those shitty autozone rebuilds, or find a place that sells quality rebuilds or can rebuild yours correctly.
I try to save any OEM axles that I have in my possession as often as possible by rebooting if possible because a good, used set is really hard to come by. All of the aftermarket Autozone, Napa, Carquest stuff is junk IMO and they usually fail three to four times as frequently as the OEM axles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ exactly what i have been saying, thank you.
unless you like changing axles steer clear of those shitty autozone rebuilds, or find a place that sells quality rebuilds or can rebuild yours correctly.
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