HEY EVERYBODY NEWBIE ON THIS FORUM...NEED SOME HELP ON A PROBLEM THAT I CAN'T FIX...DRIVING ME CRAZY...I HAVE AN H22 IN A EG6...WHEN I START MY CAR IT IDLE FINE FOR AWHILE THEN IT STARTS TO DROP UP & DOWN...THEN GOTTO PRESS ON THE GAS SO IT WHOULDN'T DIE...THEN IT WHOULD START TO SPUTTER...IT DOESN'T SOUND THE SAME...THEN IF I TAKE IT FOR A RIDE IT WHOULD DIE WHEN I COME TO A STOP...IT EVEN START BOGGIN & SPUTTERING WHEN I'M FLOORING IT...HELP! I TRIED CHANGING THE WIRES, PLUGS, CAP & ROTORS, FUEL FILTER, FUEL RAIL, & COIL...I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE! THANK YOU!

 

SWITCH THE EGR VACUME HOSES
THEY ARE THE WRONG WAY

 

i am having the exact same problem! i am gonna go try the egr vac hose right now.

 

looks like there is only one EGR vac line...so that wont work.

 

I'M NOT USING THE EGR VALVE...PLEASE I NEED SOME HELP! ANYMORE TIP & TRICKS I CAN DO...THANK YOU!

 

check the TPS, and timing..............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the TPS, and timing.............. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are perfect on my H22A..

 

Has the CEL light come on at any time?

I had a similar problem, but it turned out to be the KV85 Magnecor leads that were arcing out on the plug tips. Probably the wrong spec parts. Returned the original OEM leads, and no probs - back to normal. Actually feels better to drive too, with increased pick-up.

Have you run a compression test yet? I had the same symptoms with an old 200SX turbo. but dont want to frighten you with the resultsthat I got - worth checking all the same.

Also, check the resistor pack and all wiring harness connectors for the injectors (including the connectors on the injectors themselves).

Hope you get it sorted.

Mike

 

the only time that i will get a cel is when i try to just floor the gas with the car in 4th or 5th...then it gives me a code for the 02 sensor. So, If I could round up the extra cash for the o2 sensor then i would try to get that fixed.

 

NO CEL LIGHT...BUT DO YOU THINK IT COULD BE MY KNOCK SENSOR...BY THE WAY I'M RUNNING AN P28 CHIPPED...DO YOU THINK KS. SHOULDN'T MATTER? MAN I'M GETTING ANYONE ELSE HAS SOME TRICKS THAT I CAN DO...THANKS TO ALL OF YOU THATS HELPING ME OUT...LMK! IF THEIRS ANYTHING ELSE I CAN DO...THANK YOU!

 

JUS WONDERING IF FUEL PUMP UP GRADE IS A MUST...

 

ANYBODY ELSE...THAT CAN HELP!

 

are you running obd1 fuel injectors and is your sperk plugs wire in the right order?
is your distrubter throughing codes ? are your plugs fouled? did they change your timing belt and is the cam timing correct? are you running obd 2 injectors with a resistor pack? really sounds like the exgaust cam timing is off and your distrubtor is not adjusted right. maby your timing belt tensinor is going and throwing your cams. if thats not your problem then check your O2 sencors and make sure that all of the wires are not crossed. it seem that at start up the ecu is running in a closed loop thats why i runs fine at start up. when it switches to open loop then it reads from your sensors. (might be frased other way) make sure that all of your wires are in the right order and that you switched your wires according to what ever ecu your running to your harness and fron your harness to your motor
good luck im all out of ideas
if i think of anythink else i will let you know

 

I'M RUNNING OBD2 INJECTORS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES IN RIGHT ORDER...NO CODES..CHANGED PLUGS...ALL TIMING TDC...I'LL TRY CHECKING MY O2 SENSORS...DO YOU THINK IT MIGHT BE MY KNOCK SENSOR...BUT I'M RUNNING AN CHIPPED P28 ECU...WILL THAT MATTER?MOTOR WAS CONVERT FROM OBD2 TO OBD1...BUT I'M STILL RUNNING 1997 OBD2 DISTRUBTER THAT CAN NOT BE AJUSTED...SHOULD I RUN A OBD1 DIZZY...LMK! MY MOTOR 1994 H22 VTEC HEAD FULLY BUILT AND MY BOTTOM END STOCK 1997 H22A4 BLOCK...THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP...

 

Seriously dude, turn off capslock and make life easier for us all...

I too have a bogging issue in lower revs

 

What year and make is your car?
If it is obd1 then you need to put in the obd1 injectors.
they are 345cc (i think) and they need a resistor box.
the obd 2 injectors are smaller. if your ecu is obd1 then you should use obd1 injectors if your car came with a resistor box. the same with the distrubtor. the crank posistion sensor is located on the crank in the obd2 models of the prelude. in the obd1 models it is located in the distrubtor. if you are running a obd2 distrubtor in a obd1 car then the ecu is not reading from the crank position sensor. before you change the injectors i would change the distrubtor to obd1 and that should fix the problem. if it does and your car starts to run lean then change the fuel injectors
hope this helps out

 

Free Bump

 

check that your caps lock is not on and proceed