I replaced my front brake pads last night with some EBC green and i just got the chance to drive my car today and let me tell you, the braking is MUCH better than before.

Now i know that it takes about 200 miles for them to brake-in properly but when i brake at about 100km/h (60mph) the steering wheel shakes a litle and when i'm on light braking i can hear a verry light screeching on the brakes. Is that normal for the pads until they brake-in or do i miss something?

4th gen on DBA gold rotors btw.

 

kinda.. it is normal to make noise like that on non-ceramic pads.. but about the shaking problem.. I think your rotors might be going next.. try and get them resurfaced... oh and for the first 200-500 miles.. do not do any high speed breaking or aggresive breaking... I say drive like a grandma...

 

yeah, my steering wheel shakes a lot under normal braking........is that bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msinsky14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, my steering wheel shakes a lot under normal braking........is that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes thats bad... sounds like your rotors are warped and need some new ones...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tacticalcustoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... oh and for the first 200-500 miles.. do not do any high speed breaking or aggresive breaking... I say drive like a grandma...</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually the first thing you are supposed to do when you put new pads on is to a series of 20-0, 30-0, 40-0, and 50-0mph stops to break them in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msinsky14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, my steering wheel shakes a lot under normal braking........is that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't necessarily need new rotors. You probably just need to get them resurfaced. When you take them in to a shop they'll let you know if they just need to be resurfaced or replaced.

 

I would throw on some Cheap Auto Parts Store Rotors.
Stop wasting money on expensive rotors.....
The Rotors I use for Roadracing are $30/ea!
When they start to go, I throw them away!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would throw on some Cheap Auto Parts Store Rotors.
Stop wasting money on expensive rotors.....
The Rotors I use for Roadracing are $30/ea!
When they start to go, I throw them away!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1411597 and you can get some good brembo blanks.

**1992-1996 Honda Prelude w/ VTEC
$84 / front pair FREE SHIPPING!!!
$54 / rear pair FREE SHIPPING!!!

**1992-1996 Honda Prelude w/o VTEC
$72 / front pair FREE SHIPPING!!!
$54 / rear pair FREE SHIPPING!!!

 

They shaking may not be warped rotors. Since it doesn't sound like the pads were properly bedded, the culprit could be inconsistant pad material transfer.

The purpose of 'bedding in' pads is to deposit a thin, even, layer of pad material into the rotor. When this layer becomes uneven, it is felt as a shudder due to the change in coefficents of friciton between the pads and the uneven layer.

More info can be found here courtesy of Stoptech.

Oh, and cheap rotors will stop the car as fast as the fancy ones. The omain job of the rotor is to absorb and release heat, which all equally sized rotors can do similarly.

 

Not really. I depends on what manufacturer it is. I guess hondas are generally good for rotors. My dad used to own a 94 caravan and the rotors went evey 20,000. He bought the premium rotors and they lasted 50,000.


Yes, i know this is a Honda forum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludiferino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They shaking may not be warped rotors. Since it doesn't sound like the pads were properly bedded, the culprit could be inconsistant pad material transfer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


i agree with this. my car shook for a while and didn't stop very well when i put on my axxis ultimates and autozone rotors. after i did a series of about 10 0-60 mph stops, the brakes bit like crazy and were very consistent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seancoleshill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not really. I depends on what manufacturer it is. I guess hondas are generally good for rotors. My dad used to own a 94 caravan and the rotors went evey 20,000. He bought the premium rotors and they lasted 50,000.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct, the more expensive rotors may last longer, but do not offer any performance advantages. My best guess is the more expense rotors use a harder material; I do not know if this is accomplished by using different alloys, or heat treating. In order to conclusively prove this the surface hardness of different rotors must be tested; does any here have the ability to do a hardness test?

Also, most cheap rotors, autozone, come with warranties/guarantees.

 

You are also right. The only way you are going to get get brake performance is if you spend the money to get the cross drilled/slot rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seancoleshill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are also right. The only way you are going to get get brake performance is if you spend the money to get the cross drilled/slot rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Supposedly that's not necessarily true too. There have been tons of studies done that show the contrary actually. I think one of them was on here. If you really want to increase performance get some Acura Legend Twin piston calipers and rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seancoleshill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are also right. The only way you are going to get get brake performance is if you spend the money to get the cross drilled/slot rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know if that is necessarily true. Removing material from the brake rotors will reduce the surface area the pads have in contact with the rotors and less area for heat to travel through and disperse through. I believe better braking performance comes with BIGGER brake rotors. Flame me if I'm wrong.

 

As the theory goes, the cross drilled/slot rotors reduce the ammount of gas that builds up in between the pad and the rotor. This gas creates less of a contact between the two or less of a pressure resulting in less friction. This is only a theory and from what I have heard it works. Not entirely sure though.

 

HEY GUYS, I TOO HAVE A VIBRATION AND KNOW I NEED TO CHANGE MY ROTORS..IS IT DIFFICULT? JUST REMOVE WHEEL, CALIPER AND THEN ROTOR RIGHT? I'M JUST LEARNING TO DO ALL OF THIS MECHANICING MYSELF...THANKS! rng

 

First, turn off CAPSLOCK. Second, yes, that is all it takes. Third, if you can use the Search feature to find this thread, why couldn't you find a thread that confirms the process?