well i've been looking in getting some rims for my 90 crx. i've been looking at weight. so as the title states does it matters? also remember i'm not turboing my motor straight N/A. i've been looking at weight reduction methods, etc, blah, blah.

5zigen
Fn01r-c
Gloss Black W/ Polised Lip
15x7 - 13.5lbs - $176 each


Buddy Club P-1 Racing QF wheels
15x7 - 10.12lbs - $370 each


by the way i am a huge fan of Buddy Club. so money is not really a problem. but does the weight really matters.

thanks

remo

 

rotating mass is always VERY important, but it is usually only a key factor for autocross or track racing...if you are just primarily using these for street use I highly doubt you will notice 12lbs....but it usually is good to be as light as possible...and if you do spring for the Buddy Clubs remember tire weight also does play a factor

 

You can get the 5zigen FN01R in the forged version as well. They weigh about 10.8lbs.

 

if weight is a big concern but money isn't, why not look for a set of volk te37's (9.2) or ce28's (9.1), or ssr comps (9.2lbs). those weights are for 15x7 wheels. personally i love the style of the buddyclub QF/ssr Comp. you can lose a lb per wheel, but then getting tires that weigh more than others will negate the weight loss.

 

Lighter tires are are important since they are further out from the spindle. Wieght lost near the center will not feel as productive as weight lost around the outer perimeter.

BTW, I'd rock the Buddy Clubs. Ive got the heavier SF version because i condt afford the QF's. the FN01RC's were a close second place. I like 'em both.

 

Unsprung weight (like wheels and tires) is more important to performance than sprung weight (like the car body). Most experts say that it's by a factor of 1.5 to 2.0 times. So that means if you reduce the weight of your wheels by 12 pounds (using the same tires), it's the same as a difference in the weight of the car of 18 to 24 pounds. 18 to 24 pounds is how much 3 to 4 gallons of gasoline weighs. How much difference in performance do you notice when you've used that much gas, compared to when the gas tank is full? My guess is, not much. But you can try it out for yourself, and see...

 

go for the buddy club!! ive had both and i like the P-1's better....but i have the old school ones..anf they are the ****!! light *** F**K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unsprung weight (like wheels and tires) is more important to performance than sprung weight (like the car body). Most experts say that it's by a factor of 1.5 to 2.0 times. So that means if you reduce the weight of your wheels by 12 pounds (using the same tires), it's the same as a difference in the weight of the car of 18 to 24 pounds. 18 to 24 pounds is how much 3 to 4 gallons of gasoline weighs. How much difference in performance do you notice when you've used that much gas, compared to when the gas tank is full? My guess is, not much. But you can try it out for yourself, and see...
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Bingo. I think I have the math for it somewhere not that it's important. If you are into high performance racing and are trying to shave 1/100s of a second than ya, it's imporant. Personaly I would recommend you go to the gym and lose 12lbs there......you're body will thank you for it.

The other thing is that unsprung wieght can also have an effect on handling and sterring feel apparently. I have no personal experiance with this, only hear-say. That's all I have to say.

Cheers.

 

I really dig those Buddy Clubs in the pics--but I am hearing conflicting weight reports in around 15 x 6.5--I have heard around 9 lbs, 10 lbs, and 13 lbs. Does anyone know the actual weight?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really dig those Buddy Clubs in the pics--but I am hearing conflicting weight reports in around 15 x 6.5--I have heard around 9 lbs, 10 lbs, and 13 lbs. Does anyone know the actual weight?</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1468780

Probably in there somewhere.

 

ok money is not a problem but i'm trying to be senseable not a baller. then again nowing myself i'll just but both sets one for streets and the other for track of the buddy clubs sfq and qf. but the question here is if the if this quote is true then how do one knows which tires to but in sense of weight vs grip?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by latapx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My vote is for the Enkei rpf1 or the SSR (if you can find them). There is a relationship between rotating mass equaling more weight removed from the car but I'd have to dig deep to find it...although 1lb at the wheels = 3 in the car sounds right. It is a similar effect to installing a lightweight flywheel or lightweight pullies. You are removing drag from the motor. PLUS, you are removing unsprung weight which means that your shocks/springs have to work less to keep the wheel in contact with the road. Handling should improve as well. Be sure to remember that the tire counts too...don't spend money buying a 2lb. lighter wheel and blow it with a 5lb heavier tire. There WILL be that much of a difference between one tire and the other in the same size. If your goal is ultimate lightness, go with the lightest tire. It you compete in auto-x, STS for example, then you need to go with the tire that wins and the lightest wheel to put it on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by remoer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do one knows which tires to but in sense of weight vs grip?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buy for grip, not weight. Differences in grip between tires make much, much, MUCH more difference to overall performance than differences in weight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by super_nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can lose a lb per wheel, but then getting tires that weigh more than others will negate the weight loss.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is very true and i have been looking a bit more into this factor due to i'm going to do a bit brake upgrade w/VW 11" front disc and integra calipers. now may be this can help a bit in how i'm a bit lost.
if my crx stock tire/rim are 195/60/13 - 22.21" and let say that the tire/rim are 205/50/15 - 23.07"(15"x7") if and the tires/rims weight less but have a about 1/2" more then stock would this effect in any shape or form my handling?(but i'll will be having 2 - 22mm f/r swaybar, drop 1.5" tokico spring and shocks:all new bushing everywhere.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by remoer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if my crx stock tire/rim are 195/60/13 - 22.21"</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're not. The CRX came with stock tires 175/70-13, with a calculated outer diameter of 22.65 inches. The CRX Si came with 185/60-14, with 22.74 inch diameters.

For street use, stick with 195/50-15 (22.68 inches) to maintain the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer and to keep from accelerating slower due to taller effective gearing.

If you're looking to maximize performance, then get a stickier tire. The Falken Azenis RT-615 will be available in 195/50-15 next month.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For street use, stick with 195/50-15 (22.68 inches) to maintain the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer and to keep from accelerating slower due to taller effective gearing.

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thanks man for the info, i really want to maintain the ratio size give or take a .5" and also going wide. wide for a better stance.