H22 distributor going bad?
So I've been having some problems for awhile but recently they've been getting alot worse. So when I go to start my car, it will start quick and seam normal, but the idle fluctuates from 900-2000, it's not just an idle problem, then when it's warm I'll take it for a drive, it feels like it's misfiring like crazy cause it will jerk really fast, but I don't hear any pops or sounds of a misfire, then, if I try accelerating the tach will bounce like crazy sometimes, but I know the engine isn't jumping with the tach, so I thought it was the ignitor, changed that, and the coil, still getting the same problems, it's becoming scarey to drive, o and also sometimes if I take it out of gear the rpms will stay the same like it's in gear, until i come to a full stop then it will idle normally. My h22 swap worked fine for a week, then very slowly these problems arose, untill now it's getting too bad to drive. Plz somone help, using a p13 ecu, no cels! Spark plugs are fine, and new, grounds are all good, I'm thinking it's the dizzy, just wanted some more oppinions. Thanks.
i dont know, but PM me if you need the ignition controller from the dizzy. replace the cap and rotor, that is simple enough and see if you still have a problem. ill give it to you nice and cheap. i recently replaced my dizzy because the rotor was messed up and i stripped the set screw that holds it on. i got a used one and noticed the same thing on the rotor of that one too. the stock rotor is too thin and rusts up really easy. check it out. make sure your car us cold before you try to take off the rotor. i learned my lesson.
Ok so I just replaced the cap and rotor and no success still. So far I've tried, replacing coil/igniter, spark plugs, cap/rotor, and a diff ecu. I found it will rev fine in nuetral if I rev it to like 6000 rpms, just fine, but if I'm moving, everytime I try to rev it up, it will jump anytime above 4000 rpms, just bounces and bounces to diff rpms, even though the engine rpm is reving fine, also if I take it out of gear while i'm moving it will idle really high, like I take it outa gear and it will still revving at 3000 till I stop, then finally it will come down and idle at 750, plz if anyone can help that would be great, I'm outa ideas.
I don't think its a problem with my clutch, it's just misfiring, car jerks real fast, like spark's cutting out, and every time I try accelerating hard the tach starts bouncing above 4k rpms, it will go to like 6k rpms and everywhere inbetween, but everytime I take the car outa gear the rpms will stay the same if it's below 3000 rpms, and won't rev down to idle till I'm stopped, but it's not the clutch slipping, cause it's in neutral, I can rev it freely when it's having these problems, but it won't rev down normall, it will stop every couple hundred rpms, then won't go to 750 rpm idle till I stop.
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i can almost guarantee it's your main relay.
start your car up and flick the main relay with your finger,
see if your tack jumps around.
when they go bad they will have a hair trigger that
cause the relay to move in and out.
when you let out on the clutch, its probably triggering the relay
start your car up and flick the main relay with your finger,
see if your tack jumps around.
when they go bad they will have a hair trigger that
cause the relay to move in and out.
when you let out on the clutch, its probably triggering the relay
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonST »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the main relay going out makes the tach jump? I've never heard of this, is there anyway to knwo for sure that it's my main relay?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, the tach will jump when the relay kicks off,
try flicking it like i said with the car idleing.
yes, the tach will jump when the relay kicks off,
try flicking it like i said with the car idleing.
Well, I tried flicking it, and unfortunatly nothing happened, tach stayed still at idleing, even try wiggling it a bit, trying to get it to jump but nothing happened, so now I'm still wondering what it could be. Thanks for the idea though it was a good one. Maybe one of the wires inside my dizzy is corroded, or something non replaceable, I'm out of ideas though. Anyone else got any?
Update: Ok, so I just went for a short drive this morning, and the tach is jumping anymore, but still cuts out at 6500 rpm and rev limits, I got this checked out a week ago at a local shop and he was datalogging it, and he said when it got around 6500 rpms the rpms showed to be 0, so for some reason the ecu wasn't getting an rpm signal, so it would early rev limit. For now the jumpy tach went away, but it's intermittent which is really annoying, anyone know why the ecu and tach wouldnt get a signal at high rpms? I already replaced everything in the dizzy. Thanks.
Modified by JasonST at 10:38 AM 8/5/2006
Update: Ok, so I just went for a short drive this morning, and the tach is jumping anymore, but still cuts out at 6500 rpm and rev limits, I got this checked out a week ago at a local shop and he was datalogging it, and he said when it got around 6500 rpms the rpms showed to be 0, so for some reason the ecu wasn't getting an rpm signal, so it would early rev limit. For now the jumpy tach went away, but it's intermittent which is really annoying, anyone know why the ecu and tach wouldnt get a signal at high rpms? I already replaced everything in the dizzy. Thanks.
Modified by JasonST at 10:38 AM 8/5/2006
The only other thing I've seen make the tack jump like that is
the electrical part of the ignition switch,
when the tack was jumping, was the check engine
light flickering at the same time?
the electrical part of the ignition switch,
when the tack was jumping, was the check engine
light flickering at the same time?
No, it stays on, unless I try to rev to redline, then everytime it cuts off at 6500 cause for some reason the ecu thinks the rpms are at 0 so early rev limits, then the CEL for the egr turns off, then comes back on again when I'm cruising. I had it datalogged and for whatever reason around 6500 rpm something quits sending the rpm signal and it drops to 0 so the ecu cuts the engine. The guy who had it tested said he's 99% sure that another dizzy would fix it, but I've replaced everything in the dizzy, cept for the stuff u can't replace. So I'm really hoping he's right.
I'm glad to say I got this problem fixed a few months ago.. Finally! It was something simple and as small as one of my grounds, the ecu ground on the intake manifold. It was on, but night tightened down enough so I never knew, I took a wrench and tightened that puppy down and that fixed the problem! So if u haven't already, try checking and tightening down ur grounds, especially the ecu ground on the intake manifold!
if you're having the exact same issue I would really check on that ecu ground b4 u go and buy lotsa stuff to try and fix the problem, that was the mistake I made.
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