Rebuilt B16A / break in process and hose connections
Hello, I am new to the Honda world, I love the ease of working on it compared to the Chevys I have owned. I have a 1991 CRX Si I bought that had a B16A1 that threw a rod. I had the block and head rebuilt by a shop. I have a couple of questions;
1. The top radiator hose going to the block, where does the small hose on the water outlet go? There is a small hose attachment below the throttle body, is that where it goes? If so, can I block the water outlet side for a throttle body coolant bypass?
2. There is a hose that starts on top of the intake manifold by the words fuel injection then goes through a hole with a grommet to the bottom of the manifold, there is a broken hose, and on the head there is a tube that is right next to where it comes out, the hose doesnt look like it will match up well, but is this where it goes?
3. I was told to do the intial break in, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine to circulate the oil, once the oil light goes out on the dash I can then start it. When I get it started, run the engine at 1500-2000 rpm for about 20-25 minutes while checking for leaks. After that I can drive it, easy, for about 500 miles before I run it hard.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
1. The top radiator hose going to the block, where does the small hose on the water outlet go? There is a small hose attachment below the throttle body, is that where it goes? If so, can I block the water outlet side for a throttle body coolant bypass?
2. There is a hose that starts on top of the intake manifold by the words fuel injection then goes through a hole with a grommet to the bottom of the manifold, there is a broken hose, and on the head there is a tube that is right next to where it comes out, the hose doesnt look like it will match up well, but is this where it goes?
3. I was told to do the intial break in, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine to circulate the oil, once the oil light goes out on the dash I can then start it. When I get it started, run the engine at 1500-2000 rpm for about 20-25 minutes while checking for leaks. After that I can drive it, easy, for about 500 miles before I run it hard.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
ill just comment on #3
that sounds about right. i learned in school that for the first day only go to 3/4 throttle and make sure ur always either accelerating or decelerating in gear. no cruising and minimal idling. after a couple days drive it normal.
that sounds about right. i learned in school that for the first day only go to 3/4 throttle and make sure ur always either accelerating or decelerating in gear. no cruising and minimal idling. after a couple days drive it normal.
1) Yes you got it right.....I wouldn't block it off though....
2) The hole in your manifold is where the PCV goes....from underneath the manifold it goes down into the oil breather box. On top I can't remember, I think you got it right
3) Sounds like a plan
2) The hole in your manifold is where the PCV goes....from underneath the manifold it goes down into the oil breather box. On top I can't remember, I think you got it right
3) Sounds like a plan
Forgive my lack of knowledge, what is an oil breather box? Also, is the pcv a screw in type, because I dont see it and might be looking for the traditional push in style. Thanks alot...
Modified by CRXcamaro at 7:54 PM 8/3/2006
Modified by CRXcamaro at 7:54 PM 8/3/2006
All the PCV connections just push together. I guess you call the box a "breather chamber"
A hose should go from the chamber and fit into the hole in your IM, then the PCV valve fits right into that hose....then it continues on to (I believe) the IM itself
A hose should go from the chamber and fit into the hole in your IM, then the PCV valve fits right into that hose....then it continues on to (I believe) the IM itself
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicEX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill just comment on #3
that sounds about right. i learned in school that for the first day only go to 3/4 throttle and make sure ur always either accelerating or decelerating in gear. no cruising and minimal idling. after a couple days drive it normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word. You don't really have to worry about the bearings as long as you install them properly and make absolutely sure your clearances are within spec. You want the rings to seat and you need to drive the car hard (not beat on it) during break it for that to happen. If you baby the motor for even the first 50 miles the rings will never seat properly, you'll always burn a little oil, and you won't get the motor's full potential.
that sounds about right. i learned in school that for the first day only go to 3/4 throttle and make sure ur always either accelerating or decelerating in gear. no cruising and minimal idling. after a couple days drive it normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word. You don't really have to worry about the bearings as long as you install them properly and make absolutely sure your clearances are within spec. You want the rings to seat and you need to drive the car hard (not beat on it) during break it for that to happen. If you baby the motor for even the first 50 miles the rings will never seat properly, you'll always burn a little oil, and you won't get the motor's full potential.
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