Removing crank pulley.....
I have a 96 B18B1 LS motor and need to remove the crank pulley. I made a tool with a pipe fitting to lock the crank from turning. I used a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive and 19mm socket to remove the mounting bolt but it's on there extremely tight. I was wondering if this bolt has reverse threads, locktite or both? I checked the Chilton book and it never mentioned that it was reverse threaded but it did say it was torqued to 130 ft. lbs. if I remember correctly. I need to find out before on wrench on it anymore because I would hate to break the bolt. 
[Modified by VTECVillain, 11:57 PM 4/23/2002]

[Modified by VTECVillain, 11:57 PM 4/23/2002]
Just to scare you even more, breaking the crank pulley bolt is definitely possible. From experience, let me tell you...it's not pretty. 
If you feel your method is not reliable enough, go to a local shop and have them break that thing off with a high-powered impact wrench. Then ask them to torque it down just tight enough so you can still take it off.

If you feel your method is not reliable enough, go to a local shop and have them break that thing off with a high-powered impact wrench. Then ask them to torque it down just tight enough so you can still take it off.
I thought about that but the motor is out of the car. I bought the longblock to go into my girlfriend's 91 CRX. I hate to pull the crank pulley off but I have to remove that whole plastic cover on the timing side. I need to install a 93 LS motor bracket on the timing side so it will work in her car with the HASport mounts.
Not fun breaking loose the crankshaft pulley. I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS 1.8 liter DOHC non VTEC b18b1. The crankshaft bolt is always tightening when you drive it. So it tightens up the more and more you drive it. It's not fun breaking loose. I have broke 2 balancer trying to break it loose. FYI dont ever use a pipe wrench to grab it lol. But it dont matter be prepared to eat your Wheaties and use your muscles because it's not gonna be anything simple.
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bradley
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