Hey all,

For the last 3 months I have had to change my rotors twice already. The first time I never thought anything of it. Then they kept warping and had to get them cut twice in a 2 week period. It kept going and they had to change them again a second time. I drove to chicago at the beginning of the summer, and my rotors were warped again, and had to be changed less than 2 weeks after the last one. For the last 2 months I have felt problems with the breaks againg, but it wasnt that bad. Now its starting to be very very bad again.

Does anyone else know what this could be due to? Anyone have this experience before and somehow got it fixed.

Thanks in advance,

Mobe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mobestar15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey all,

For the last 3 months I have had to change my rotors twice already. The first time I never thought anything of it. Then they kept warping and had to get them cut twice in a 2 week period. It kept going and they had to change them again a second time. I drove to chicago at the beginning of the summer, and my rotors were warped again, and had to be changed less than 2 weeks after the last one. For the last 2 months I have felt problems with the breaks againg, but it wasnt that bad. Now its starting to be very very bad again.

Does anyone else know what this could be due to? Anyone have this experience before and somehow got it fixed.

Thanks in advance,

Mobe</TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> Get a newer car. </FONT>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CA6VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT COLOR="royalblue"> Get a newer car. </FONT> </TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong useless answer.


i honestly dont know why thats happening, but someone who does will chime in. bump for you

 

When brake rotors are re-surfaced, the chances of them warping again has increased because of it's decreased thickness (less ability to dissipate heat, which warps a rotor). Even if it's still within the specified service limits, you're still taking a chance.

Were they resurfaced on the car or on a lathe? Resurfacing on a car will have better results in reducing parellism and runout because the rotor spins on the axis it will spin on in the real world, instead of the lathe axis.

Accords brakes are over-worked, there's a lot of mass to stop for their size. Warped rotors is a common issue with Accords, and can become warped pretty easily.

Over-torqueing the lug nuts is the biggest cause of warping rotors. I cringe when I go to autocross events and see people tightening their lugs with a breaker pipe. Later in the day, I saw one of these people grind to a halt as their front driver wheel rolled away.

If your threads have ever experienced overtightening, then even torquing them correctly will still be a false reading and the rotors can warp.
This is by far the number one leading cause of this problem, people who get new wheels and just slap em on the car without torquing them correctly.
Lazy mechanics who are rushing will use an impact gun to tighten lugs, bad bad.

 

Has anyone checked to make sure the slider pins are clean and lubed? Are the calipers sticking? Do you drive like you are in the indy 500?

 

you need to buy OEM breaks or better.. brembo or what ever qoulity product you have.. and som pads that works.. then for the first 50 miles you break them in slowly with easy to medium push on the break pedal and all ways keep same pressure on it.. and NEVER at a stand still hold your foot on the break !!!

 

chk to make sure that there is nothing bent on the frt suspension,, knuckle??

 

do you change the pads when you re-surface the rotors? I would just throw a new set of brakes on there, and make sure they are quality parts, no Kragens bullshit.

 

About the resurfacing, I figured that would be a problem, that is why I changed the rotors completely with new pads. Then they warped again, and now a third time in less than 4 months.

I am guessing that your theory on the lug nuts might be correct. If that is the case, there really isnt that much reason for me to bother tryin to find out the problem as my car is kinda old and no point in putting too much money into it.

Maybe, in a year or two, ill use it as a toy car and put money into it to hook it up and stuff, but for now I dont think its worth it.

THanks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECnKEN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When brake rotors are re-surfaced, the chances of them warping again has increased because of it's decreased thickness (less ability to dissipate heat, which warps a rotor). Even if it's still within the specified service limits, you're still taking a chance.

Were they resurfaced on the car or on a lathe? Resurfacing on a car will have better results in reducing parellism and runout because the rotor spins on the axis it will spin on in the real world, instead of the lathe axis.

Accords brakes are over-worked, there's a lot of mass to stop for their size. Warped rotors is a common issue with Accords, and can become warped pretty easily.

Over-torqueing the lug nuts is the biggest cause of warping rotors. I cringe when I go to autocross events and see people tightening their lugs with a breaker pipe. Later in the day, I saw one of these people grind to a halt as their front driver wheel rolled away.

If your threads have ever experienced overtightening, then even torquing them correctly will still be a false reading and the rotors can warp.
This is by far the number one leading cause of this problem, people who get new wheels and just slap em on the car without torquing them correctly.
Lazy mechanics who are rushing will use an impact gun to tighten lugs, bad bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

They checked the slider pins and they are clean, lubed and working fine. They told me the calipers are also in good condition, but I am not 100% sure that is the case. And I dont drive the car like its a race car, I try to ease on it from time to time, and usually drive pretty normal

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone checked to make sure the slider pins are clean and lubed? Are the calipers sticking? Do you drive like you are in the indy 500?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECnKEN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Over-torqueing the lug nuts is the biggest cause of warping rotors. I cringe when I go to autocross events and see people tightening their lugs with a breaker pipe. Later in the day, I saw one of these people grind to a halt as their front driver wheel rolled away.
Lazy mechanics who are rushing will use an impact gun to tighten lugs, bad bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OP: This is not a theory. This is all you need to know.

 

check your wheel bearings, if the rotor isnt sitting right on them then it isnt going to move in the correct path

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECnKEN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Over-torqueing
Lazy mechanics who are rushing will use an impact gun to tighten lugs, bad bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yo meat head......that's what us LAZY techs use with the impact gun to tighten lug nuts .......
ever seen these ??


http://www.brandsplace.com/too....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mobestar15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">About the resurfacing, I figured that would be a problem, that is why I changed the rotors completely with new pads. Then they warped again, and now a third time in less than 4 months.

I am guessing that your theory on the lug nuts might be correct. If that is the case, there really isnt that much reason for me to bother tryin to find out the problem as my car is kinda old and no point in putting too much money into it.

Maybe, in a year or two, ill use it as a toy car and put money into it to hook it up and stuff, but for now I dont think its worth it.

THanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of pads? If you have brakes that are too small for the vehicle mass, they will get hot quickly. Pads that can't cope will melt and leave deposits. Try axxis ultimates, as they have probably the best upper heat range of any street pad.