CTR piston installed, break in period...
Hi,
Justo got my ITR back.
The CTR pistons are in, my B16C6 engine looks like a Swiss clock.
I´m in break in for now.
I´m gona put for now the Spoon thermostat and the Spoon radiator cap to lower the engine temperature.
Pinota
Justo got my ITR back.
The CTR pistons are in, my B16C6 engine looks like a Swiss clock.
I´m in break in for now.
I´m gona put for now the Spoon thermostat and the Spoon radiator cap to lower the engine temperature.
Pinota
before people start to flame homeboy..
b18c6 = european ITR motor. or something along those lines
b18c6 = european ITR motor. or something along those lines
This is how I break in a car:
1000 miles break down
no freeways
0-300 miles keep it under 3krpm
300-500 miles take it up to 4k once in awhile
500-700 miles take it up to anything before vtec
700-1000 miles just take it easy and hit vtec/redline once in awhile.
1000 miles break down
no freeways
0-300 miles keep it under 3krpm
300-500 miles take it up to 4k once in awhile
500-700 miles take it up to anything before vtec
700-1000 miles just take it easy and hit vtec/redline once in awhile.
This is how i broke in mine...per http://www.crvtec.com
0-200 miles. Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
200-400 miles. Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
400-600 miles. Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles. 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles. 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
0-200 miles. Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
200-400 miles. Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
400-600 miles. Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles. 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles. 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
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Drive easy for 100 miles.
CHange oil
drive easy for 400 miles
change oil
done.
Easy in this instance is defined as light throttle with RPM no higher than 5-6000.
CHange oil
drive easy for 400 miles
change oil
done.
Easy in this instance is defined as light throttle with RPM no higher than 5-6000.
Thanks, for the info about break in.
Labor and OEM parts for the head and block coast $870 usd.
Pistons, rings and pins coast $330 usd.
I had problems about oil consuption and compression, that´s why i changed the pistons and head work.
Labor and OEM parts for the head and block coast $870 usd.
Pistons, rings and pins coast $330 usd.
I had problems about oil consuption and compression, that´s why i changed the pistons and head work.
I never get an answer to this question... Can you run 12.0:1 on 92 octane pump gas ? IE, CTR pistons in a US daily driver...
Mike K who does your machine work, I may have to go with overbored pistons and I want the job done right. I don't trust anybody in Orlando..
Sure - but it depends on your timing, intake temps, elevation, and A/F ratio.
Ask the guys from ATL - my R was knocking like a vaccum cleaner salesman at 18degrees on 92 octane. It is only 11.85:1.
Ask the guys from ATL - my R was knocking like a vaccum cleaner salesman at 18degrees on 92 octane. It is only 11.85:1.
I never get an answer to this question... Can you run 12.0:1 on 92 octane pump gas ? IE, CTR pistons in a US daily driver...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-Rare#1248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">back from the dead!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Another Lazurus thread.
I believe the motor he had blew up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Another Lazurus thread.
I believe the motor he had blew up.
something has always gotten to me with 'breaking in' a modified engine. You have to put your car on a dyno to have it run correctly. And to do this you have to redline. So in a way you are killing the life span of the car....
is there somethign im missing here.
is there somethign im missing here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinota »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles for the break in ?
About rpm, drive safe at about ????</TD></TR></TABLE>
20 miles then 10,000 rpms!!!
About rpm, drive safe at about ????</TD></TR></TABLE>
20 miles then 10,000 rpms!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
20 miles then 10,000 rpms!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol!
Here's what we did with the SCCA IT7 car: started it for the first time, idled it for 30-45 minutes (forget exactly), then drove it on the street for maybe 50 miles, then the car went to a race weekend at sebring.
20 miles then 10,000 rpms!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol!
Here's what we did with the SCCA IT7 car: started it for the first time, idled it for 30-45 minutes (forget exactly), then drove it on the street for maybe 50 miles, then the car went to a race weekend at sebring.
IT7 = rotary mess....
And i presume for a race car you want it broken in as quickly as possible and dont care if it needs another rebuild in a year. This isnt practical for a street car, IMO.
And i presume for a race car you want it broken in as quickly as possible and dont care if it needs another rebuild in a year. This isnt practical for a street car, IMO.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IT7 = rotary mess....
And i presume for a race car you want it broken in as quickly as possible and dont care if it needs another rebuild in a year. This isnt practical for a street car, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
RJ: This motor will last at least 5 seasons. The last one was treated far worse and had SHITLOADS of use and wasn't even bad when it was pulled.
rotaries just own piston ****
And i presume for a race car you want it broken in as quickly as possible and dont care if it needs another rebuild in a year. This isnt practical for a street car, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
RJ: This motor will last at least 5 seasons. The last one was treated far worse and had SHITLOADS of use and wasn't even bad when it was pulled.
rotaries just own piston ****
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotaries just own piston ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely... The DC region SRX7 track record is currently held by a driver who's using a junkyard engine of unknown mileage... the shell it came out of just about disintegrated from rust
that kicks ***
</TD></TR></TABLE>Absolutely... The DC region SRX7 track record is currently held by a driver who's using a junkyard engine of unknown mileage... the shell it came out of just about disintegrated from rust
that kicks ***
I got in it and revved the **** out of my motor. I figured if it's gonna go it's gonna go. LoL
That's what I call a break in. Haven't burn a lick of oil since.
That's what I call a break in. Haven't burn a lick of oil since.
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