Electrical Problem, need theories.
Allright.
Suddenly the car refuses to start. I measured power everywhere. Except back to the fusebox in the engine bay.
First a discovery i made.

The red points actually go straight to eachother. this is where my "lead" on where my power is going stops.
I havent followed the wire further on.
Whats weird is that there is no power at all in my car. Its just dead. Suddenly?!
I thought that maybe i fried my ECU. But its weird that nothing would have power then? I replaced it. Same result.
I've double checked earth connections and changed the battery.
So far, nothing.
Any theories?
Thanks. Rack
Suddenly the car refuses to start. I measured power everywhere. Except back to the fusebox in the engine bay.
First a discovery i made.

The red points actually go straight to eachother. this is where my "lead" on where my power is going stops.
I havent followed the wire further on.
Whats weird is that there is no power at all in my car. Its just dead. Suddenly?!
I thought that maybe i fried my ECU. But its weird that nothing would have power then? I replaced it. Same result.
I've double checked earth connections and changed the battery.
So far, nothing.
Any theories?
Thanks. Rack
know that. But look at the picture.
The power goes into the upper right red circle. And passes through without connecting to anything and goes directly into the cockpit from there.
But wherE?
The power goes into the upper right red circle. And passes through without connecting to anything and goes directly into the cockpit from there.
But wherE?
-Using your voltmeter, you should have +12, from negative post to positive post.?
-you should have +12 from the starter, where the positive post of the battery goes?
-you should have +12 from the starter to the block on the engine, as the negative lead from the voltmeter?
-you should be able to use a wire from the positive post, to the leqd off of the starter solenoid, mounted on the starter. When you touch it, does the starter turn over?
-you should have +12 at both of the points you identified?
-If you have +12, then you very likely have a fuse in the car, under the drivers console, which is out.
-check these and then you can go from their.
-you should have +12 from the starter, where the positive post of the battery goes?
-you should have +12 from the starter to the block on the engine, as the negative lead from the voltmeter?
-you should be able to use a wire from the positive post, to the leqd off of the starter solenoid, mounted on the starter. When you touch it, does the starter turn over?
-you should have +12 at both of the points you identified?
-If you have +12, then you very likely have a fuse in the car, under the drivers console, which is out.
-check these and then you can go from their.
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already done it.
The car has power until it has gone through the fusebox in the engine bay.
Nothing works. Nothing in the car has power except from the power i can measure through the fusebox.
The car has power until it has gone through the fusebox in the engine bay.
Nothing works. Nothing in the car has power except from the power i can measure through the fusebox.
Replace your fuse box. Perhaps its gone bad. They are cheap and easy to replace (if you get one from the junkyard
).
i forget off hand what the multi wire connector is for wanna post it up what it could be?
-Shane
).i forget off hand what the multi wire connector is for wanna post it up what it could be?
-Shane
if the ignition switch is faulty then perhaps its not turning anything on.
however, if your talking headlights not working and things that DONT rely on the keyturn, then have a constant power issue.
the three teminals opposite the red circle you made are input from ignintion and the feed to it, and the last 8 awg wire the the constant for the interior of the car.
thast what you should be concerned with.
IF from your red circle to the opposite side thick termianl has no constant then the fusebox itself could be interanally shorted, but if you've ever had on apart those strips of metal are so thick and wide i really doubt they could short, really.
more likley would be the 12 volt output 8 or 10 AWG wire running from the underhood fusebox to the cars ignition switch as the input has shorted.
im guessing that since the 8 or 10 awg wire is more likley to fail then those really thick terminals hidden insdie your underhood fusebox.
anyway im getting all long winded.
easy way to check, drop steerin colum shroud, see if you have 12 volt at the ignition switch, if not, see if you have it at the output on the fusepanel.
if needed, as said above replace the panel, OR the output 12 volt wire.
however, if your talking headlights not working and things that DONT rely on the keyturn, then have a constant power issue.
the three teminals opposite the red circle you made are input from ignintion and the feed to it, and the last 8 awg wire the the constant for the interior of the car.
thast what you should be concerned with.
IF from your red circle to the opposite side thick termianl has no constant then the fusebox itself could be interanally shorted, but if you've ever had on apart those strips of metal are so thick and wide i really doubt they could short, really.
more likley would be the 12 volt output 8 or 10 AWG wire running from the underhood fusebox to the cars ignition switch as the input has shorted.
im guessing that since the 8 or 10 awg wire is more likley to fail then those really thick terminals hidden insdie your underhood fusebox.
anyway im getting all long winded.
easy way to check, drop steerin colum shroud, see if you have 12 volt at the ignition switch, if not, see if you have it at the output on the fusepanel.
if needed, as said above replace the panel, OR the output 12 volt wire.
Finally a usefull answer.
I actually took apart the entire fusebox when i came across this problem.
Nothing in the car gets power. And thats weird. Becouse the lights are connected directly to the power cord with a switch in between.
Measured the voltage to the lights.
Its like, if the wiring loom inside the car just dissapeared?!
I actually took apart the entire fusebox when i came across this problem.
Nothing in the car gets power. And thats weird. Becouse the lights are connected directly to the power cord with a switch in between.
Measured the voltage to the lights.
Its like, if the wiring loom inside the car just dissapeared?!
Replaced the fusebox and measured the ignition module.
everything has contact with earth. But nothing gives me any voltage.
Are you sure the pin on the contact in the picture goes directly to the starter?
everything has contact with earth. But nothing gives me any voltage.
Are you sure the pin on the contact in the picture goes directly to the starter?
So, Heres the thing.
I've figured out where the power leaves the engine bay. To illustrate this better. I've taken the drawings from the manual.
The power enters the loom by point A. And leaves the fusebox on 1.
But where does it go? I think it goes directly to the internal fusebox. Does anyone concour with that? But where on the fusebox?


dude, those thin guage wires do not power the entire car.
that diagram is not totally accurate to what you have in your car, ill show you.
each of the 4 you have numbered are the outputs of the small fuses they are next to.
did you see if you have power at the 12 volt wire at your ignition cylinder???
12volts
-white/black
Starter
-black/white
Ignition
-black/yellow
Accessory
-yellow
2nd Accessory
-blue/white
that diagram is not totally accurate to what you have in your car, ill show you.
each of the 4 you have numbered are the outputs of the small fuses they are next to.
did you see if you have power at the 12 volt wire at your ignition cylinder???
12volts
-white/black
Starter
-black/white
Ignition
-black/yellow
Accessory
-yellow
2nd Accessory
-blue/white
From looking at the schematic's, it looks to me like you have probably got fuse 31 blown. If yoy use a voltmeter, I suspect you will find +12 on the bottom and nothing on the top of the fuse.
In the picture, their are three yellow fuses. The schematic you have doesn't match that. However, one of those three fuses is probably blown, since you are without power to everything. You need to get a voltmeter and measure if their is +12 on one side, but not on the other. If their is, then that fuse needs to be replaced.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gp70hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the picture, their are three yellow fuses. The schematic you have doesn't match that. However, one of those three fuses is probably blown, since you are without power to everything. You need to get a voltmeter and measure if their is +12 on one side, but not on the other. If their is, then that fuse needs to be replaced. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well yes those main fuses are the first thing he said he checked.
he was saying all his fuses are ok, which means a hard short in the wire running into the car.
but yea thats not a bad idea man, just double check those big fuses arent blown, and that the main ground coming from the battery has a nice, clean unrusty connection to the chassis.
well yes those main fuses are the first thing he said he checked.
he was saying all his fuses are ok, which means a hard short in the wire running into the car.
but yea thats not a bad idea man, just double check those big fuses arent blown, and that the main ground coming from the battery has a nice, clean unrusty connection to the chassis.




