sup people i'm new to this site.. i've been a member on superhonda.com and b20vtec.com as well.. but first time here on honda-tech.. anyways I'm looking foward to trying auto-x on honda-day here at racewaypark. Dose anybody know what class they will put me in? I bought a 99 Civic Si (Em1) with mods alredey on the car. It has a AEM short ram intake, a racing clutch(brand uknown but I chirp second when I redline... must be a heavy duty clutch) wildwood big brake kit(front) drilled rotors...lowering springs, 17inch ADR rims on kumho tires.. 205 I think it is... I gotta check.. and all else stock.

Also how do u know which side of the cone to turn too.. It seems Like I whould get lost on the course It looks kind of confusing.

Also I kno i'm asking too many questions as a noob but.. I wanna try and take auto-x as a sport.. but I also love the adrenaline rush of drag racing.. and having a fast car.. most of my friends think auto-x is gay and they all drag race. My days of going to the spot and racing on the weekends is done for me.. but thats not stoping me from going to the track. anyways what I'm trying to say is can I build my car to do both? like a high 13 sec or low 14sec car and overall agility for auto-x? lol sorry for all the questions..

 

Brakes are killing you. They will bump you to SM. When you go the first time get there early enough to walk the course a couple of times to figure out where it goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cruizinmax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brakes are killing you. They will bump you to SM. When you go the first time get there early enough to walk the course a couple of times to figure out where it goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't he run STX with the brake upgrade? even though the Si is an STS car, i thought the brakes were an allowable STX mod so he could run there?

 

Any good autox will provide first-timers with a guided walk-through of the course, explaining what everything means. If not, grab someone that looks experienced and walk the course with them, asking all the questions you need. People are always helpful at these kinds of these.

Good luck, and have a blast.

 

cool thanks for the replies... so is it possible to build a car for 1/4 and good for auto-x too?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_racer87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool thanks for the replies... so is it possible to build a car for 1/4 and good for auto-x too? </TD></TR></TABLE>

anything is possible with enough money, but more than likely you'll either end up with a car that is mediocre at both and great at nothing, i'd pick which way you want to go and work from there. Personally, drag racing got boring in a hurry, HPDE's are by far the best bang for my driving dollar.

 

hmm I just want to keep up with my friend's GSR.. maybe a low 13 sec pass N/A or jucied? and maybe Type-R handaling..... I can pick up a GSR block for like $800 and throw in JDM ITR pistons, ITR cams, and put my b16 head on it... then later on I can do a ITR 5 lug conversion.. but that whould be plans for next year...after I go to a few auto-x. If not the b16 is getting boosted.. it just has no torque.

 

Boost is good....i run in SM (with my turbo civic) with a bunch of swapped hondas and I pretty much own cept for the K24 with a good driver . anyways my best advice to first timers is to go over the course as much as possible. I ran off course 4 out of 6 times at my first auto-x just because the course would be much different at speed. My reasons for getting into autox at first is because eventually i would like to go wheel to wheel road racing and I see this as the first step...learn to drive the car at slow speeds...figure out how to make adjust and how the car will react to adjustments...figure out how i do things in the pits and what tools i need to bring to fix my car... next i will be going to some HPDES to get my feet wet on the real course with REAL speed.....hopefully in a couple years ill have enough knowledge and experience to build my w2w car and go RACING!!

oh yea and if your interested South Jersey Regional SCCA is having an event this sunday.....not sure if NJR is doing so this weekend but its lots of fun and good people.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_racer87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm I just want to keep up with my friend's GSR.. maybe a low 13 sec pass N/A or jucied? and maybe Type-R handaling..... I can pick up a GSR block for like $800 and throw in JDM ITR pistons, ITR cams, and put my b16 head on it... then later on I can do a ITR 5 lug conversion.. but that whould be plans for next year...after I go to a few auto-x. If not the b16 is getting boosted.. it just has no torque. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's where you start running into problems, as soon as you swap the block out, bump the compression, change the cams, etc, you're instantly in a class where your car won't have a snowballs chance in hell of being competitive. The Nitrous could work for you, since you could remove it for the autocross, but run it at the strip, but you could be playing with a hand gernade if you do that.

 

Drag racing is for fast cars, road racing is for fast drivers.

Turbo on an autox car is not exactly ideal because you are constantly lifting/balancing the throttle and turbo lag usually gets the better of you. Some people will do well with it but thats rare, NA or superchargers are much more ideal.

 

go run the event and then decide what you like before you start planning all these mods
the beauty of autoX and RR is that it is more focused on the driver then modding the hell out of your car
they specifically run classes that do the least amount of mods leaving more money to run thier events and become a better driver

plus you will soon find out that no matter what you have some punk in a stock miata will make you look like a fool! hahahha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drag racing is for fast cars, road racing is for fast drivers.

Turbo on an autox car is not exactly ideal because you are constantly lifting/balancing the throttle and turbo lag usually gets the better of you. Some people will do well with it but thats rare, NA or superchargers are much more ideal.</TD></TR></TABLE>



There is a super fast Supra that comes to our autocross events some times. He only hits boost maybe once or twice a run... and he only can get on it for 2 to 3 seconds at a time. As soon as you hear his turbo spool he has to get back on the brakes.

I bet that car rips down the 1320, but when it comes to autocross it is just not setup correctly.

Autocross is fun because you can improve your times without dumping money into your car. Spending money on entry fees will net better times than buying parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_racer87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most of my friends think auto-x is gay and they all drag race.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't worry about what your friends think. Just go have fun autocrossing. They will be the ones missing out.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_racer87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyways what I'm trying to say is can I build my car to do both? like a high 13 sec or low 14sec car and overall agility for auto-x? lol sorry for all the questions..</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's definitely possible to have a fairly quick car that can hold it's own on an autoX course. My own car serves dual duty. I also enjoy the occasional trip to the drag strip, as well as running local soloII events.

The most important thing is that you have fun in whatever you do. If you're not having fun, it's not worth the time...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_racer87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> anyways what I'm trying to say is can I build my car to do both? like a high 13 sec or low 14sec car and overall agility for auto-x? lol sorry for all the questions..</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's definitely possible to have a fairly quick car that can hold it's own on an autoX course. My own car serves dual duty. I also enjoy the occasional trip to the drag strip, as well as running local soloII events.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dual purpose cars ROCK!!

My goal is: Competitive autocross car that (with a change of tires) runs 11s at the strip.
So far, I regularly run FTD at the local autoX and I'll find out on Sept. 2nd if I can run my 11.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slopoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dual purpose cars ROCK!!

My goal is: Competitive autocross car that (with a change of tires) runs 11s at the strip.
So far, I regularly run FTD at the local autoX and I'll find out on Sept. 2nd if I can run my 11.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes this is what I'm looking to do aswell!

 

Lots of people dislike nitrous, but I think its PERFECT for a dual purpose car.

My motor makes about 190whp NA(moves my 2000lbs hatch around good at autoX) and 277whp 251trq at the strip(with the bottle).

Best of both worlds, imo.

 

not to try and jack your thread but i was woundering what class i fall in.

i have a scion tc its stock h with no mods but currently it has

a header
catless exhuast
filled motor mounts
intake
lowering springs
underdrive pully
and a safcII
falken rt615 tires (225/45/17 just slightly wider then stock so shouldnt matter)
some lighter wheels

i know the safcII is going to bump me up a class but what do you think i would fall in??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aarontrini85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to try and jack your thread but i was woundering what class i fall in.

i have a scion tc its stock h with no mods but currently it has

a header
catless exhuast
filled motor mounts
intake
lowering springs
underdrive pully
and a safcII
falken rt615 tires (225/45/17 just slightly wider then stock so shouldnt matter)
some lighter wheels

i know the safcII is going to bump me up a class but what do you think i would fall in??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you are in Street Prepared, why did you remove your cat?

The header, motor mounts, intake, springs, pulley, non stock sized wheels/tires (up to 7.5" width wheels), and SAFC2 will all put you in street touring, but that doesn't matter because, again, not having a cat is killing you. On top of that all I cannot find anything about where the Scions are classed within SP, which means you are in A Street Prepared (sports cars with 2 liters or more NOC go here, and your car is not a sedan any way you look at it). But if someone knows if the SEB put something in fast track about it please speak up.

 

If you're brand new to autox, who cares what class you'll be in? You're bound to get spanked anyway - and that wasnt intended with offense. Just go out and have fun! Read the SCCA rulebook, available online at their site. I'm in STS with my 98 dx hatch, because of coilovers. But its still a lot of fun anyway.

 

the factory cat on my car is on the exhaust manifold so adding a header removes the cat.

if i weld a cat some where on my exhaust will i then be in a lower class???

 

Prepare to be humbled...

No matter what mods you have or how many passes down the quarter mile, autocross is an entirely different beast.

It's all about control and perception of the course. Just listen to the veterans and walk the course many times.

Good luck.

 

oh yeah lol i know its going to happen but i would like to be in a lower class if i could

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2006 Solo Rules &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14.10 E - Exhaust manifolds and headers may be replaced with alternate units which are emissions-legal...This allowance does not
permit relocation of the catalytic converter.

14.11 A 6 - High flow catalytic converters are allowed, but must attach within six inches of the original unit. Multiple catalytic converters may be replaced by a single unit. The inlet of the single replacement converter may be located no further downstream than 6" along the piping flow path from the original exit of the final OE converter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The first part is from the Street Touring S rules and the second part is from Street Touring X. So it looks like you are still going to be in Street Prepared

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aarontrini85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah lol i know its going to happen but i would like to be in a lower class if i could</TD></TR></TABLE>

For now I wouldnt worry about class because you've got a little while before you'll actually be competative. Once you start getting faster, THEN worry about it. But i wouldnt even worry about it unless you're competeing for points and a potential trophy. Walk the course a few times, but not too much, that can be a bad thing. First run, take it slow and get an on course time. Get faster as you go.

 

my turbo spools quickly and i don't have issues with turbo lag (not completely true i may be losing .1 - .2 seconds getting back on the throttle)........then again its not a dumb drag car either....... (dual purpose with a turbo is best, low boost for autox/rr and high boost when you just want to beat your car into the ground......in a straight line)