ok like the title states. i just got done installing the new intake manifold and now the car wount start or click over. aswell as it's flashing a code that i cant figure out. the code goes as follows: FLASH........FLASH.....flash,flash,flash,flash. can anyone help me out.....

 

by the way guys i can push start the car and i know for a fact i have a leak at the tb to the manifold if that helps diagnose the problem...


Modified by crxmex at 12:16 AM 7/31/2006

 

Did you reconnect all the sensors and vacuum hoses? Are all of your grounds attached? From your description of your code, it would be a 24, which I don't think exists. Try counting the flashes again. A long flash would be a 10, so two long ones would be a 20. Short flashes count as 1, however many short flashes in a row, equates to the number of the code. I hope that makes sense.

 

could be a code 10 and a 14, iat and eacv

 

I believe those two plugs are the same. Meaning you can mix them up and plug them in to the wrong sensor. Try reversing the plugs on the back of the intake manifold.

EDIT: My reply assumes you have two codes like the guy above mentioned (10 and 14)

There would be one long flash then a break. Then another long flash followed immediately by four quick blinks. Then it would repeat.

 

i think it is 2 codes due to your descriptions and no ther is no 24 for obd0 it stops at 20. and as well i did have the connectors switched i think. should the check engine light be on after i reconnect them without pullin the hazard fuze to reset it? as well, how could this cause a no start problem. thanks for the help so far guys keep it coming. by the way will a leak at the throttle body shoot these codes off? i have a bad leak where the tb and manifold meet need to get a new gasket.


Modified by crxmex at 9:52 AM 7/31/2006


Modified by crxmex at 9:52 AM 7/31/2006

 

You do need to reset the ecu by pulling the hazard fuse. A leak at the t/b will not prevent your car from starting.

 

Pull the fuse to clear the codes. If they're still there after that, there is still a problem. You can also disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute to reset it. Easier to just pull the fuse though.

When I had them mixed up after my swap, my car would not start. After switching them around it fired right up.

 

SHAZAM!!!!! ok cel's cleard' thanks guys "i did have them mixed up" but the no start problem is still here. i hear no inside click like a relay and no starter click i can however still push start it....

 

Did you check all of your grounds? Especially the thermostat one.

 

well the ground is connected at the thermostat and i didnt check all the fuses yet. think it could be the main relay under the dash? mine doesnt click at all andi coulda swore it used too

 

Could very well be the main relay. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxmex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SHAZAM!!!!! ok cel's cleard' thanks guys "i did have them mixed up" but the no start problem is still here. i hear no inside click like a relay and no starter click i can however still push start it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i dont see how it could be your main relay, if you can push start it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Magick211 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i dont see how it could be your main relay, if you can push start it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh, I missed that point. Perhaps the starter signal wire is loose/cut/broken somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter?

 

Could very well be the main relay. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

ok i tested the main relay with the info from alldata. from school today. it works fine clickin away...but it doesnt click in the car. and as far as the fuel pump priming i never could hear it sir. thanks for the help guys keep it coming.