*updated question on post 15

I am putting together an h22. I converted over to the manual tentioner. Now here is/are the issue/s.

When I align the two little marks the intake cam feels like it wants to move. When I put the timing belt on, by the time everything is good, the intake cam rotates about a tooth down and the two lines are no longer aligned. I was looking in my helms and it said to do place it in the order of crank>waterpump>exhuast>intake. That keeps it from rotating, but I can't get the timing belt on the last gear because it seems like its inbetween 2 teeth.

I know in some engines there are locks for the cams. Is there such things as that on the H22?

Next question is, is the key on the crankshaft and the alignment arrow above, the TDC mark? (and those that I know will answer check your flywheel, this is just a longblock without a flywheel on it. )


Modified by asmallsol at 6:12 PM 7/31/2006

 

Yes there are pin holes on the cams for you to "lock" the cams in place.

Yes the key on the crank and the alignment arrow above it is the TDC mark. However, I like to check that and the flywheel to confirm TDC, but you already know this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb_one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes there are pin holes on the cams for you to "lock" the cams in place.

Yes the key on the crank and the alignment arrow above it is the TDC mark. However, I like to check that and the flywheel to confirm TDC, but you already know this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where are the pin holes, which one are they as there are multible ones.

 

up

 

the helms should say where the locking pins are

i didn't need to when i did mine but i think they were right near the cam gears. its bascially two holes (one for each cam) where you push a pin thru so it holds it

 

they say they are there for h23's but not h22's

 

to make it easier to slip the belt on, i only slip it like 1/2 way on all the other gears, then when you get to that last gear, you can kinda twist the belt up to slip it on. then you're good to go.

make sure that once you do get it all on that you turn the crank over 2 revolutions to make sure all your marks are still TDC. i'm sure you already knew that, but i thought i'd mention it just in case. good luck.

 

I used a 12mm wrench on the intake cam gear bolt
to hold it as I slid the belt over it last.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asmallsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they say they are there for h23's but not h22's</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i had an h23

you can also kinda pry on the belt on there with a screwdriver

 

the way i did it (135 pound self might i add) was i put it on half way on all the gears. i then pulled the tensioner out a little bit and angled it slightly down. i then pulled the belt by hand up on the tensioner (still damn hard) and then pushed the tensioner back to it's proper place. worked like a charm for me twice. my cam timing never got off and i didn't even lock the cams.

 

yeah you have to push down on the tensioner while pulling on the belt so you can get the most possible slack too. It's a tight fit but it should go.

 

its never ever taken me more than 3-5 minutes to put the belt itself on. i guess it's always gone on pretty easy for me......

that's using the manual tensioner of course, with the auto it sucks horse nuts.

 

thre are holes to lock the cams in place, if you take the time to LOOK at the cams you can see the holes through the oiling plates, and then below that you can see the holes in teh cams as well. it makes life a lot easier if you are having issues with the cams slipping.

 

keep in mind if you hear or block was every decked down, it essentially throws all the timing marks off , didn't know if this was applicable for you situation.

 

well here is the problem now. Timing belt is on and the cams are at TDC, however for the crankshaft, the gear is half a tooth off from the TDC mark (meaning the pointer on the block is pointing to the "vally" of the tooth) I have disassembled and assembled twice and both times it ends up like this. Since the flywheel isn't on, I can't check the TDC that way. Is there a TDC mark on the flywheel side of the crank? The pin that flywheel goes on is pointed to a casting mark, however its at like 2 oclock or something like that, you would think it would line up at noon or something like that.

I did try the extention method in cyl number one, and the extention was at the max for like a tooth or so from either direction from the TDC pointer mark.

 

up lease help

 

so youre saying that the belt wont go on with the crank pulley and the cam gears fully aligned?

 

yep, exactly

 

why don't you just bolt the flywheel up real quick?

 

You can check TDC by putting a rachet extension into Cyl #1 through the spark plug hole. Slowly turn the crank pulley bolt and watch the extension travel up. There will be a pase of a few degrees when you reach the top but you can see where the cams will line up this way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why don't you just bolt the flywheel up real quick?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because its on an engine stand right now and the way the arms that hold it up are in the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by getbig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can check TDC by putting a rachet extension into Cyl #1 through the spark plug hole. Slowly turn the crank pulley bolt and watch the extension travel up. There will be a pase of a few degrees when you reach the top but you can see where the cams will line up this way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm, if it was that easy, I wouldn't be asking. I just did the timing belt and I am worried that the cams are not alligned with the crank.

 

well like someone else said... has it been decked?

when the cams are lined up, which side of the crank gear is the arrow on? 1/2 a tooth too far or not enough?

 

i've had a head decked 7/1000's before (which is a lot), and i never had a problem with the gears lining up at all. didn't even seem like it would be close to being a problem. i understand that eventually there would be a problem, but i'd think it would have to be decked quite a good bit before it would really mess with the timing much. it would pick your compression up quite a bit though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well like someone else said... has it been decked?

when the cams are lined up, which side of the crank gear is the arrow on? 1/2 a tooth too far or not enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it has, then its been done over in japan. I picked this up from a guy who just bought it from some JDM retailer. Its never been in a car over here as the JDM harness is still on there and all cut to hell.

as for the side that its pointing to. the proper tick is negative degrees from the block pointer as like 11:59