wanted to install my new pads and rotors, and i left my helm's at home (im at school now)

anyway, i think i basically know how to do it, but please let me know if im forgetting anything

jack up car
remove wheels
remove caliper assembly
remove brake pads
use impact driver + hammer to remove the screws holding on the rotors
pull off rotor, put on new rotor
put anti-seize on the screws, screw them back on
install pads and calipers
put wheels back on

anything elsE? TIA

 

you da man!
do a hot college chick?

 

I just did mine last week-end. Basically the list is good. Plus do some cleaning with a wire brush to remove rust from the different mating surfaces. Also if you can remove the two small screws without problem you are blessed by the gods. I would go to the store and buy new screws (M6x16mm). I had a lot of problem removing the disk also. They where jammed pretty good (original disks from 1998). I had to buy a three leg puller to help do the job. You will need to put anti seize compound in the back of the brake pads and on the spacers.

In general a fun job. Took me 6 hours to do the four disks (from taking the tools out of the tools box to putting them back).

 

ugh... follow yer list of instructions or can use this list...

1-get in car, drive to rochester
2-have me do it
3-get me beers and girl...
4-drive away a happy camper with working brakes

 

thanks guys...and man u guys should see the girlies when they get drunk at the bar...2 weeks ago they climbed up on the bar and took off their tops !!! i've never seen such nice titites bouncing up and down in my life

anyway

wire brush + brake cleaner should do the trick right?

my question is, when i bed the pads on the new rotors, let them cool off over night, i should be good to go shouldn't i? or should i let the rotors break in some more w/ some more city driving?

 

lol

 

Do a series of 40mph to 2mph easy slow downs... 10 times, accel to 40, slow to 2... don't stop though. That's a good break in. Then drive easy on the brakes for 200-300 miles. Obviously if you have to stop hard, do so, but try to avoid such situations, and drive easy while they break in. Oh, and use jackstands!

(I had to go back and make sure I got all the breaks and brakes in the right spots..)

 

That is a good break in procedure but just make sure that right after you do the series of 40 mph to 2 mph stops you drive a while to let the brakes cool down. Don't let the brake pads sit on a very hot disk or they will leave a deposit on the disks and you will have a vibration.

 

well, the honda dealership near me only had M6x14mm screws...hope i dont die

 

Unless your screws are really screwed up, I don't think you'll need new ones...

 

you don't need the screws, they don't perform any function other than to keep the rotors from moving when you remove the wheel. the lugnuts hold the rotor and wheel securely. just toss those stupid screws.

 

Theres 2 extra threaded holes on the rotor hub. You can use the caliper pin bolts to push the rotor off the hub by screwing these in (do both holes at the same time, little bylittle).

 

I just can't agree with this comment. Yes the lugs hold the wheel to the rotor to the hub. But how many times, I know several for me when I'm rotating tires for instance, do your wheels stick to the rotors. Disimilar metals (steel humb, Aluminum wheels) tend to oxidze when in contact with each other. Add water, and that oxidation can cause the pieces to stick some what. Now you're pulling your wheel off, and it's stuck to the rotor, well you have nothing holding your rotor on, so all the pressure is going right into your brake pads and to the caliper... I don't like putting side loads on the calipers like that. For that reason, I will ALWAYS replace the little screws.

 

true. besides, 4 screws were only $1.50 from honda, so its not like its a big deal.

 

Just remember to put a little anti-seize on them, and put em in good and tight! I use the impact screw driver to put them back on too...

 

I used those threaded holes also but they worked only on the rear rotors. On the front rotors, the hub cracked around the holes as I was screwing the bolts in .
As I said, the front rotors were pretty jammed (and very rusty).