I was installing my bros Coilovers and My LCA's and one of the LCA bolts on the rear broke right off and now its stuck and I cant cut it off or pull it out and I tried to pull the other one off and I stripped it . I know this has happened to many people . What is the best method to pulling those suckers out .

Broken Bolt expletive


And then this happened. Stripped Bolt



Modified by SuperSi at 8:29 PM 7/29/2006

Update PT2 the grinding of the bolt did not go so well so i did this


Okay well the bolts were still acting like bitches so I did this and in total it cost me 30$

Rear Disk Biatch



ASR and ITR Sway will be in soon




Update :

Well I got the stripped bolt off with some WD40 and it was not the bolt that was stripped it was that my socket was cracked because of the presssure I put on it. Im not doing this I told my dad to come over and see what he could do while im at work. Hes grinding the welded on bolt as I type this.


Modified by SuperSi at 3:12 PM 7/31/2006


Modified by SuperSi at 11:47 PM 7/31/2006


Modified by SuperSi at 11:55 PM 7/31/2006

 

wow. that sucks..i got mine off no problem....just soaked it in PB blaster the night b4 and the morning of doing it...sry i cant help..just bumping it up.

 

It'll be hard but tap something into the bolt and use vice grips to turn that. I did that once and bought bolt extractors; have gotten every stripped/broken bolt out since. Good luck.

 

Easier to cut the nut off the shock and then bash/press the rest of the bolt out.
Then just put a new 10.9class bolt through, with lock nut. (thats if youre reusing the current shocks)
Same goes for the other side, where the head's rounded off....cut and replace

 

good time to do a rear disc swap?

 

Thats what I was thinking but I need to get rid of this first .

 

For the stripped bolt, use Craftsman bolt-out set. Worked for me.

 

That happened to me i just heated it up with some map gas and hit it out with a hammer

 

This is a common problem and this happens because the bolt gets seized into the bushing. On my car it was not a matter of anything being tight cause the bolt would turn a bit but would sring back due to the rubber tension in the bushings. the easiest way around this is cut the bolt on both sides of the LCA and replace the bolts with new ones from the dealership but when re-installing them use anti-seize compound and next time they need to come off you wont have the same problem.

 

What is MAP Gas? and how do I do this. I need this out so bad.

 

First, don't freak out because when this happens, that thing is so stuck on there that I was able to drive 100 miles before I had time/money to get it out. I just took it to some small shop for which they charged me $20 to get it out. Once that was done, I put in an energy suspension piece ($20), so that is $40 total.

 

i have same problem, i know how you feel. i had a local shop down here where i stay they had to extrac old bolt, drill and tap. cost me 45.00 each side. dont worry it could be fixed....

 

this had happend to me before when i was trying to put disk brakes on a ek. the hole bolts on the rear snapped exept the compensator arm. So save me the hassel, i put diskbrakes

 

happens to all of us. you can either drill the bolt out or get new bushings.

 

I have new LCA's so I dont care about the bushings. I hope you guys are looking at the right bolt .Its the first bolt not the one that goes on the shock.

 

PB blast should work, or just drill into it !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have new LCA's so I dont care about the bushings. I hope you guys are looking at the right bolt .Its the first bolt not the one that goes on the shock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you'll need to cut off the welded nut on the other end and drill out part of the bolt to get the LCA out.

Then just get a new set of bolts/nuts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easier to cut the nut off the rear knuckle and then bash/press the rest of the bolt out.
Then just put a new 10.9class bolt through, with lock nut. (thats if youre reusing the current shocks)
Same goes for the other side, where the head's rounded off....cut and replace</TD></TR></TABLE>

fixed

 

had this same problem a month ago trying to install new lca on my friends hatch we did almost everithing and the bitch wasnt moving we even try to press it out with a 12 ton presser and the bitch didnt come out we had to drill it out and put newones in

 

your first mistake, which i dont think anyone has caught yet, is that you tried loosening the nut, which is tacked weld to the lower control. It might have gone a little smoother if you would have tried wrenching on the bolt head

 

you see that broken bolt on the left, the first one. Well i had the same thing happen to me. dont drive too long with it broken because u know what will happen and it happened to me. I thought the bolt would snap off and the LCA would hit my inner rim but the entire mount ripped off not the bolt. couldnt even get the wheel to move onto the flatbed that was towing me. I did a rear disc conversion. you can try to drill it out if you know what you are doing . In the end this **** costed me 100 for towing. 200 for rear disc brake and 100 for new omni power LCA. btw the mount only ripped because i had 2 people in my car im sure it would have lasted longer if i didnt have anyone in my car. i drove like that for..400ish miles

 

No I did not . I tried loosening the bolt since the nut is welded on to the knuckle.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your first mistake, which i dont think anyone has caught yet, is that you tried loosening the nut, which is tacked weld to the lower control. It might have gone a little smoother if you would have tried wrenching on the bolt head</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Get an air compressor and a cutting wheel so **** like this takes you 15 minutes to rectify. By the time you get around to lowering a 12-15 year old car, you might as well get new LCAs anyhow because the rear bushings are going to be shot to ****, and if you do, you can just cut up whatever you need to get the job done.

And drilling that out is going to be a lot more work than cutting the nut off the other side and throwing the whole LCA in the trash

 

i just remembered something, get a dremel and make a groove into the bolt, then stick a flat head in there and turn it out. hope u got strong arms for that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get an air compressor and a cutting wheel so **** like this takes you 15 minutes to rectify. By the time you get around to lowering a 12-15 year old car, you might as well get new LCAs anyhow because the rear bushings are going to be shot to ****, and if you do, you can just cut up whatever you need to get the job done.

And drilling that out is going to be a lot more work than cutting the nut off the other side and throwing the whole LCA in the trash </TD></TR></TABLE>

FYI I already have New Ksport Lca's. So cutting the nut off the other end is the best thing I could do right? And what nut and bolt combination do I have to get?