I remember seeing a how to on replacing a head gasket on a CRX. here. Anyone have the link????

Thank you very much.

 

0.o

edit: forgot to mention, you need to remove the header.
edit2: i added scans of the honda CRX oem factory manual showing how to remove
edit3: changed first couple of steps for SOHC and simpler change, tanks Crx Jimmy
and install a headgasket. including torque sequence

Step 1
Set timing to TDC

Step 2
pop off rubber grommit to access tensioner and losen slightly.

Step 3
remove timinng belt

Step 4
remove valve cover

Step 5
remove head studs under camshafts

Step 6
remove collant lines off back of head, enless you want to just keep the head chilling and have a friend hold the head

if you have an intake manifold bracket remove it as well

Step 7
consider resurface. if you blew a headgasket you might want ot do this for safty, its about 50$

Step 8
clean up coolant in cylenders, make sure no oil in the coolant walls. if so remove botl on front of block and dry it out.

Step 9
place headgasket on motor

Step 10
clean off head stud bolts, consider replacement if they are shroomed or if you have the money layinga round

Step 11
carefully lower the head and turn a bolt or two till they get some force.... if you did not remove camshafts and bolts are installed.... hand tighten them down and slowly lower the head, try not to put pressure on the camshafts. have a friend help you tighten them.

Step 12
in the proper pattern / torque sequence tighten the head studs. i will get you a diagram if you need in a min. then... put everythign back on that you had to remove in the first place and fill coolant / oil

this is easier if you remove the camshafts. at least on DOHC ZC's.
never had to do it on a SOHC.

make sure you torque properly. if you do not have a torque wrench rent one from autozone/csk/kraegen(whatever it is called in your area) it is free to rent. cost 90$ in deposte i think. please make sure you torque it properly...

if you need a more descriptive step by step prcess PM me ill help you out


Modified by nelsmar at 1:54 PM 7/29/2006


Modified by nelsmar at 10:25 PM 7/29/2006

 

Either replace your head studs or risk breaking one off inside your block. They're a one time use item.

 

 

i always recomend replacing studs, i HAVE reused once. but ... if you cant afford you can use if they are in good condition... but try to get the few extra dollars

 

Awesome. Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention it's for a boosted d16z6.

 

should be the same either way... just drop the manifold off first and itl just take a lil longer to do : )

 

Boosted Z6? Buy ARP head studs and an OEM Honda or Cometic head gasket. You can usually find a set of head studs for around $80 shipped either here or on eBay. LightningMotorSports.com has a pretty good price on them, too.

 

edit: forgot to mention, you need to remove the header.
crx jimmy reply- you just need to remove the top section

edit2: i added scans of the honda CRX oem factory manual showing how to remove and install a headgasket. including torque sequence

step 1
set timing to tdc

step 2
pop off rubber grommet to access the tensioner bolt and loosen slightly

step 3
remove valve cover

step 4
remove timing belt

change first couple steps a little

 

eh i always just removed the timing belt all together... ill change it thanks for the idea. make it a lil simpler :D

 

Couldn't you just loosen the tension from the belt tensioner and remove the timing belt from the cam pulley and leave it on the crankshaft or does the belt need to removed entirely?

 

yeah i edited because of that. just remov from the cam. makesure your set toTDC,

 

And dont forget to clean off the mating surfaces on the head and block. Any little piece of debris in there can cause some problems. And please dont reuse the stock head bolts. They are TTY and they will most likely fail(especially considering how boosted SOHC's have head lifting probs to begin with!). I would definately get some ARP's. Just make sure you spray out the bolt holes on the block with an air compressor! Any debris or liquid in there can throw off your Tq readings when you tighten it down. Also...ARP recommends that you re-torque the studs after like 1500 miles. If you have a bolt stretcher then you dont have to worry about this, but if not then its something that you need to do.

These are little steps that people ALWAYS skip. Which is the reason that you see so many people with leaking headgaskets. I made the mistake of not re-torquing my studs and i started leaking coolant into the cylinders. It took me 20min to take it apart and tighten it down...and it hasnt leaked since. Cheap insurance if you ask me. Good luck man!

 

Alright, thanks for all of the help thus far. I ordered my ARP headstuds and Cometic .040 head gasket and should recieve them by Friday. I took a look at my crank pulley and there are no marks for finding TDC. I guess I'll have to find TDC the old fashioned way by using a long screwdriver in cylinder #1 and turning the crank by way of ratchet until it reaches the top of it's stroke and determine weather or not it's on it's compression stroke by looking at the dizzy to see if the rotor is pointing to spark plug one. Sounds right or is there a better way of finding TDC on a sohc?

Again thanks.