I'm trying to get to the ignition coil but after removing the rotor screw it's putting up a fight coming off.

I'm trying not to pry it off for fear of damagin components behind it...

I tried a very small squirt of PB Blaster too... any suggestions? is this normal?


Modified by Paprika at 10:21 AM 7/27/2006

 

your sure you took out the right screw I have never had one of these get stuck before. you could try a light tap with a rubber hammer to try and brake it loose. I had the screws get stuck before and used a little valve grinding compound on the tip of the screw driver to get more bite and they came right out

 

Hmmm ... okay I'll look into that.

Also,

I have a feeler gauge that I just realised (too late) that I am not sure how to read. It has 4 different numbers on each gauge... Looking something like this:

.004 .102
.006 .152
mm

and I'm not sure what to make of it anymore! I think I knew when I bought it but it's been a good while! Which reading is in mm, which in inches, and what one do I pay attention to when adjusting valves. The top, bottom or what?

 

ive had a couple guys bring buy there cars with stuck rotors. i pull out my Impact driver and it came right off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive had a couple guys bring buy there cars with stuck rotors. i pull out my Impact driver and it came right off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Howd you manage to use an impact driver to get off a stuck rotor?

I still need to figure out how to get it off guys...

Also, as far as the feeler gauge. It's kinda strange. The range given by honda for the intake and exhaust valves matches whats written on two of the gauges. Know what I mean? They gave me a range of... .009-.011 inches for *i think intake* and one of my feeler gauges happens to read:
.009
.011

So... I dunnno... I used them like that, but I'm still unsure if it's right...

 

I have had the same problem. I try to gently pry up one side with a screw driver and pull on the opposite side with my finger. sometimes some wiggling to get it off.
Incidently I was adjusting my timing today and I could hear a rubbing noise from inside the distributor. took it off and found the rotor was wobbling and rubbing on the plastic shield thing in there. I put the rotor on a couple months back. The screw was tight - the rotor was just crooked on the shaft. Took it off and it slipped off real easy. I then put the old OEM rotor back on (it was still ok looking) and it is a nice tight fit - hard to pull off. It was also not crooked like the Autozone rotor. no more rubbing noise. very weird...

 

Yeah!
Well I'mm try to see what all tools I got that Can help me really get this rotor off.

I have an Autozone Duralast rotor to replace it with because the last replacement rotor I had I ened up destroying trying to get it on (i was inadvertantly putting it on upside down)... Hopefully this one will go on and work.

I'd get original honda parts but ... yeah sometimes I like to be special. This origina OEM one that won't come off is looking worse than it did when I reconditioned it and put it back on. It's time for it to come off NOW~!

 

This sucks and it happens to me all the time. I usually end up prying against things in creative ways and/or breaking the rotor off in pieces. You may want to dremel it off in chunks to make sure you don't break anything else.

Trust me. From doing this 5 or 6 times myself, the dremel is your best bet

 

lol still $5 impact driver from harbor frieght with 2.5" phillips bit gets it every time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol still $5 impact driver from harbor frieght with 2.5" phillips bit gets it every time</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read. Carefully. The screw is already out, sweety. The rotor is stuck to the shaft. The screw is not the problem. The rotor is stuck to the shaft. He doesn't need an impact driver. The rotor is stuck to the shaft.

Are you okay now?

 

Damn Reading Ownz me..lol Bust out out the ****** dremel and go to town with the cutting wheel. just make a cut down the middle and then stick a flat head in there and pop it right out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn Reading Ownz me..lol Bust out out the ****** dremel and go to town with the cutting wheel. just make a cut down the middle and then stick a flat head in there and pop it right out</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly my technique !

 

I think that your best bet would be to just use a flathead screwdriver, and pry from the bottom of the rotor. Just be careful not to slip and expletive something up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by premo_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that your best bet would be to just use a flathead screwdriver, and pry from the bottom of the rotor. Just be careful not to slip and expletive something up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't pry on anything other than the distributor internals, hence this being a bad idea. No more suggestions from you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't pry on anything other than the distributor internals, hence this being a bad idea. No more suggestions from you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can't pry on anything other than the distributor internals, hence this being a bad idea. No more suggestions from you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly the problem I am facing! Prying sounds like the best idea until you realise you'll be prying against the coil and other stuff... so yeah thats where I am.

My gosh I've had like 2 or 3 different dremel knock offs and they've gone down hill on me. The first one lasted a gooood long time though. Anyway does the dremel cut th rough the copper of the rotor okay using regular cut-off wheels?

EDIT: I got an idea: wrap the metal wire of a coat hanger around the neck of the rotor and use a set of vice grips to pull on both ends of the wire. I think this would put pressure where it's needed but I'm worried about what the pulling force could do to the shaft and everything connected to it ???? What do you guys think?


Modified by Paprika at 10:43 PM 7/27/2006

 

bump for some input

 

The dizzy should be out of the car

Really the trick is you need to apply even pressure to both sides of the rotor and give it a little wiggle. I should clarify myself - when I said prying I am not talking about pushing with brute force here and damaging the stuff inside. I am talking about slight gentle pressure with the screw driver (or a wooden stick, or whatever you want) on the dust cap thing - it does not take much.

The first time I did this it took me probably 30 minutes to get it off! Now that I have the feel for it it only takes a couple. The rotor feels like it is permanently frozen on there, but actually it takes very little force to remove. The trick is EVEN force on 2 or more sides of the rotor. The rotor is not pressed on or anything it just has some tight tolerances in there. By pulling harder on one side than the other you make it almost impossible to remove.

Wiggle the rotor some -( you should feel a very, very small amount) If you can't feel any, try wiggling in a diffent direction then use even pressure to pull it off.

 

i had this problem on couple cars i worked on u just have to pull nd wiggle it on the same time after a while it should come out or u can pry it out just make sure r not hittin any delicate internals

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jibs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dizzy should be out of the car

Really the trick is you need to apply even pressure to both sides of the rotor and give it a little wiggle. I should clarify myself - when I said prying I am not talking about pushing with brute force here and damaging the stuff inside. I am talking about slight gentle pressure with the screw driver (or a wooden stick, or whatever you want) on the dust cap thing - it does not take much.

The first time I did this it took me probably 30 minutes to get it off! Now that I have the feel for it it only takes a couple. The rotor feels like it is permanently frozen on there, but actually it takes very little force to remove. The trick is EVEN force on 2 or more sides of the rotor. The rotor is not pressed on or anything it just has some tight tolerances in there. By pulling harder on one side than the other you make it almost impossible to remove.

Wiggle the rotor some -( you should feel a very, very small amount) If you can't feel any, try wiggling in a diffent direction then use even pressure to pull it off.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you!
I got that bitch off doing exactly what you said using my hand on the top and the forks of a hammer on the bottom!! Thank you for your help jibs.

Aparenrly I DID have it lubricanted with dielectric grease .. Forgot I had done that.

 

Good to hear! did you find the Autozone rotor you put on to fit looser? Mine fit a lot looser - not sure yet if that is a good thing. Maybe I got a bad one...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Incidently I was adjusting my timing today and I could hear a rubbing noise from inside the distributor. took it off and found the rotor was wobbling and rubbing on the plastic shield thing in there. I put the rotor on a couple months back. The screw was tight - the rotor was just crooked on the shaft. Took it off and it slipped off real easy. I then put the old OEM rotor back on (it was still ok looking) and it is a nice tight fit - hard to pull off. It was also not crooked like the Autozone rotor. no more rubbing noise. very weird...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jibs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good to hear! did you find the Autozone rotor you put on to fit looser? Mine fit a lot looser - not sure yet if that is a good thing. Maybe I got a bad one...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually I haven't put it on yet, I just came back inside to report my findings to antoher thread I have going on concerning a possible ignition problem. If I have to get a new coil I'm not sure if I'm putting on the AZ rotor until I get it.