Does anyone have experience with replacing the rotors on a 95 accord
bought cross drilled rotors and wanted to change them myself because i dont want to spend the money at the shop now does anyone know the procedure on removing them help would be greatly appreciated thanks
-remove wheel, remove brake caliper and caliper bracket.
-remove axle nut
-depending on tools you have:
remove the axle and then the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle OR just remove the 4 bolts.
-now this is the fun part....getting the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle!
There are various tools to do this including hammers with special attachmenst, slide hammers and more....just make sure you dont knock the bearing apart cause that complicates things.
-once bearing is out of knuckle you unbolt the rotors
-install is reverse of removal.
oh yeah and there is a reason that labor is high on 90-97 accord brakes...
-remove axle nut
-depending on tools you have:
remove the axle and then the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle OR just remove the 4 bolts.
-now this is the fun part....getting the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle!
There are various tools to do this including hammers with special attachmenst, slide hammers and more....just make sure you dont knock the bearing apart cause that complicates things.
-once bearing is out of knuckle you unbolt the rotors
-install is reverse of removal.
oh yeah and there is a reason that labor is high on 90-97 accord brakes...
ya what I did was that I removed the wheel then I removed the axel nut then the brakes and bracket and I used a slide hammer to pop it out changed rotors then I put the hub on and used an impact to tighten the axel nut to force the hub back to gether it only took an hour for both wheels
So I can change the rotor by popping out the hub I was told by a friend of mine the easiest way of do it is to pop out the tie rod lower ball joint and obviously undo the axle nut then the spindle would slide up causing the axle to come free loosen up 4 bolts in the back then everything would come apart is this correct or is the 1st method or 2nd better eveb though I didn't quite understand the second method
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya what I did was that I removed the wheel then I removed the axel nut then the brakes and bracket and I used a slide hammer to pop it out changed rotors then I put the hub on and used an impact to tighten the axel nut to force the hub back to gether it only took an hour for both wheels</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't want to pop the hub out of the bearing. It's recomended that you replace the bearing once the hub has been seperated from it.
Best bet is to use the search feature or go to the FAQ and look at the brake tutorial and other brake swap threads. You'll find what you need in there.
Basically it's what deserthonda wrote out in the write-up but with pictures. You'll also find problem other people had and what they did get around them.
Do it right the first time so you don't have to come back to it down the road.
I know people have pulled the hub out of the bearing and gotten away with it but I wouldn't recommend it. I know with my luck it would mess up 3 months down the road and there I would be spending another day or weekend on that job.
You don't want to pop the hub out of the bearing. It's recomended that you replace the bearing once the hub has been seperated from it.
Best bet is to use the search feature or go to the FAQ and look at the brake tutorial and other brake swap threads. You'll find what you need in there.
Basically it's what deserthonda wrote out in the write-up but with pictures. You'll also find problem other people had and what they did get around them.
Do it right the first time so you don't have to come back to it down the road.
I know people have pulled the hub out of the bearing and gotten away with it but I wouldn't recommend it. I know with my luck it would mess up 3 months down the road and there I would be spending another day or weekend on that job.
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if you want. But for the few extra steps it takes to do it the right way, I think I'll take the few extra steps to make sure nothing is going to mess up that bearing. Why take the chance that you'll have to do redo the job when it's enough of a PITA the first time around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is another way but it sounds to long</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the correct way of doing it. sure your way might be faster, but not when you bust a bearing and have to do it over again. then its more money and more time than doing it correctly the first time.
thats the correct way of doing it. sure your way might be faster, but not when you bust a bearing and have to do it over again. then its more money and more time than doing it correctly the first time.
God, I was gonna replace my rotors in my Auto Tech class but it took so long just to get the freakin CV disconnected, that I had to just put it all back together because we wouldnt have time. (The class lasted about 2 hours) Either way your screwed becuase doing it yourself takes a long time if you dont have a lift, etc and taking it to a garage is so damned expensive (which I ended up doing)
Does anyone know why Honda did such a crappy layout like that? Were they trying to make labor costs go up so the dealerships would get more money?
Does anyone know why Honda did such a crappy layout like that? Were they trying to make labor costs go up so the dealerships would get more money?
he's not screwed. Nor is anyone else that takes on this job. You just need some basic hand tools, a couple specialty tools, a jack and jackstands and a weekend to make sure you have plenty of time to complete everything without being rushed. It's a PITA job to do, thats for sure, but with some patience and determination you can do it.
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