hi all..... just wanted to know if anyone here had a b18b and has a built bottom end and can tell me where to start....or at least what they have on it.. thanx.....

and roughly how much $$ it cost'em...

thanx

 

Depends on what you want to do with it. I built mine because I wanted an LS/Vtec...I bought a stroker kit with custome pistons, rods and crank. Then I swapped out all the internals put new bearings in it, put a moroso oil pan on it and slapped a Type R head on it. It's actually quite simple, if you know what you are doing.

 

I would say that the first thing you should keep in mind is: "Do it right the first time!" I spent about $1,400 on bottom end internals and I don't regret a dime of it. Here's what I decided on and roughly what I paid (if I can remember correctly): SRP 11.5:1 forged pistons(-$325), JE rings (recommended for SRPs - $100), Eagle forged rods (w/ ARP rod bolts - supplied - $325), brand new OEM bearings (mains & rods - $125), new OEM water pump(-$120), new OEM ITR oil pump (-$125), Block Guard ($80), new OEM head gasket (-$50), all new OEM gasket set (-$60), new OEM throw-out bearing (-$20), ITR clutch disc (-$95). There may be a few other thing I left out, but these would be the basics. The best piece of advice, though, IMO...is to TAKE YOUR TIME! You can only mess things up by hurrying through a motor assembly. Hope my $.02 helps! CTR on LS rods vs. SRP 11.5:1 on Eagles

 

wow that's cool man
i'm about to rebuild my h22....trany first then my block

 

Those are some thick-*** rods!

 

Those rods do look nice. They are pretty affordable, too. I'm going with the JE 9.0:1 VTEC .20 bore pistons. Should be a nice combo for a boosted CRVTEC

 

I have a ? about your blockguard. I have heard that some are welded in and some are hammered in. I can tell yours wasnt welded did you just hammer it in or is their some other way to install it. Thanks....

 

Some BlockGuards have to be "trimmed" in certain areas (usually between cylinder webbing) in order to fit. This is what I did: I used a die grinder to 'shave' a bit of material form these problem areas, then, once I had removed just enough material, I laid it in place and lightly tapped my way around it until it sat flush with the deck. The idea being that you want it to fit snuggly in the coolant cavity. It's actually really easy and totally worth the $80+/- IMO!


[Modified by GM2000ITR, 5:30 PM 4/24/2002]

 

i was thinking about the block guard for my ls/vtec but looking at the head gasket an water passages in the b16 head they don't line up exactly,would this increase the temperature?you know block guard and water pasagges not line up exactly,what you think guys

 

Are you sure yau had the Blockguard facing the right direction? There is a "up" mark with an arrow on one side. If it is positioned correctly, the holes should line up. I'm creepin' up on 4,500 mi. since my build and I have had no heating problems yet.

 

i don't have the block guard yet.what i mean is that the ls head gasket and the b16 head water passage do not line up correctly,so i thought that adding the block guard will increase the chance of overheating,but i guess you got already 4,500 miles,so i will go for it

 

GM2000IT... just wanted to know if uve taken the car to the strip of dyno'd it... what are your #'s...thanx

also fer anyone know can tell me, is it possible to build up my bottom end to high compression, then switch out pistons fer low comp. and boost?? whenever i decide to go boost??

thanx


[Modified by baonest, 7:12 PM 4/26/2002]