For a 1991 Civic Std 3dr, the EX master cylinder is not only a direct bolt on (no mods needed) part, but also is an upgrade right? From...like 7/16" to a 1/2" or something, right?

Please advise, I can't remember what someone mentioned a while back, and I can't find my thread.

 

Yes unless the std booster is different than dx's.....
otherwise that is the case

 

Basically you have a 13/16MC in your car now the 90-91 4dr EX MC is 15/16 and will be a little upgrade.

 

Is it even worth the swap? Recently when re-sealing the oil pump I noticed paint bubbling on the brake booster. I'm almost positive it's coming from between the booster and the master cylinder. Well, I know I can get away with just that big seal back there (I think) but if it's starting to go, I wonder how well the seals are internally, and was considering just replacing the whole MC. But if the minor upgrade isn't all that well worth the extra money, I'll probably just replace that main seal.

Please advise, thanks!

 

It is a minor help, if you have to replace it do it with a EX MC. If you really braking power get a Integra non-abs booster and MC.

 

Well, unfortunately I just left my job for school, so I don't have the cash to do the booster as well. Would it be a wise idea to maybe just do the seal for now, and then next summer replace the MC and booster with NON ABS teggy stuff? I would then have a full teg brake setup...

Right now I've got:
4040 Prop valve (I had planned to swap the front sooner than now)
91 rear teggy disc

proposed:
teg booster/MC

soon to come:
Front EX or non abs teggy rotors/knuckles/calipers

Thanks toad. this isn't the first you've helped me with brakes.

 

its not an "upgrade".

i just changes the hydraulic power ratio between pedal and calipers. force vs pedal travel.

you dont get any better braking by changing MC.

the reason why you would change MC is if you changed the calipers to a larger size (same with rear drum to disc). you should match the other brake components with the right sized MC so the pedal travel is kept in an optimum point.

in other words, if you were throw a bunch of integra brakes front and back into your STD, then you should change the MC as well. if you dont, youll find that the pedal travel is way too long, and you may not even develop the full amount of hydraulic force at the calipers.

if youve done nothing else but change your MC, then all you get is a shorter pedal travel. nothing else. which doesnt make it an "upgrade" to me having a more sensitive brake pedal.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls

 

Yet again, Tyson is another one who's helped me with brakes.

So given my setup, you would advise switching to the teggy booster/MC given my rear discs, 4040, and soon to come front brake swap?

I thought my pedal seemed to be traveling further and softer...I figured it was just the MC or booster going bad.