i just got a hella cheap 5 lug on my car, and it's gonna need better pads pretty soon. what are some CHEAP, but still decent brake pads? on my last 2 cars i ran pbr ultimates in the front but both had stock rear drums (98 ITR swapped hatch, 92 2.1L hatch..both were drag orinented so i prefered the lighter drums) and i have the front/rear disk now. should i go back with ultimates again, or are there better in the price range? i'll prob run ford heavy duty fluid unless there's somethign else that's as good for the same price.

i know there's a fuckton of topics about this...but for somereaon the quick search won't do anything....and mostly it's track/hpde talk...and, the hardest i drive is on the curves on teh way to work in the mornings...so, yeah..won't help me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just got a hella cheap 5 lug on my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wasn't there just an ITR stolen in your area?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll prob run ford heavy duty fluid unless there's somethign else that's as good for the same price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1193702

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wasn't there just an ITR stolen in your area?</TD></TR></TABLE>

there have actually been 2 stolen in my own town, both PY ITR's. My good friend Jarrett's, and his cousin Wes (wes had his for less than 5 months before it got stolen) Jarretts was stolen from Concord mills, and wes's from Circuit City in Hickory....none have been stolen in my town, though....and, there's only 1 left, and i've got it up for sell.

so, yeah, your implication that they might be stolen by me, or bought stolen is false. The 5 lug setup came from my good friend eugene, who has had it on his midori car for quite some time, and he bought them off a guy in Asheville, NC, that were orginially bought from Randy at IAS, which we are also very regular customers with. I had them up for sell for eugene, but decided on picking them up myself.

okkkkkkkk, so that out of the way....more opinions, pls

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1193702</TD></TR></TABLE>
pls excuse my ignorance...but after looking that over...i'm still lost as to which i shoudl choose.............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pls excuse my ignorance...but after looking that over...i'm still lost as to which i shoudl choose.............</TD></TR></TABLE>

The higher the dry boiling point, the better the protection against boiling when the brake fluid is fresh. The higher the wet boiling point, the better the protection against boiling when the brake fluid has been in the car for a while.

If you change your brake fluid at least once a year, just look at the dry boiling point. If you don't, then the wet boiling point is important too.

Every fluid on that list has a better dry boiling point than Ford's current heavy duty brake fluid. And some are cheaper, on a per-ounce basis. So which one should you choose? NOT the Ford heavy duty...

 

ok, so fluid aside for now....what about pads?

and are stainless lines worth the money? i hear yes and no about them so much...and in ever get a REAL straight answer ppl sway back and forth over them like they do between a GSR head or a b16 head

 

oh...and should i do MOTUL RBF600 or ATE super blue? i'm guessing just do the MOTUL RBF600

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so fluid aside for now....what about pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like the Cobalt Friction GT Sport pads, if you can get them. But they're not the cheapest pads around.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and are stainless lines worth the money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO, no. Stainless lines are supposed to prevent a spongey feel to the brake pedal if the rubber brake lines swell. Do you have a spongey brake pedal? I don't. I have my original rubber brake lines in my ITR with &gt;5K actual track miles and my NSX with &gt;10K actual track miles. No sponge, no need.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh...and should i do MOTUL RBF600 or ATE super blue? i'm guessing just do the MOTUL RBF600 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Either one. I like the Motul and don't mind spending the few extra bucks for the added boilover protection. But if you're not tracking your car, the ATE will be more than adequate, I'm sure.

 

i'm deff not tracking....i'll prob take it to teh strip some, but the closest track is VIR or CMP...so, that's pretty much out of the question. oh, and i suck at turning

 

I used the autozones for a bit. Couldn't tell a big difference between them and Axxis Ultimates.

 

which pads? autozone got a few pads


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 43! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the autozones for a bit. Couldn't tell a big difference between them and Axxis Ultimates. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

performance frictions?

 

Honestly, I'd put Raybestos Dust-Free pads on my car again.. they were indeed dust free, and stopped totally fine on the street.

For sportier pads, Cobalt, Carbotech, Performance Friction, etc., have good pads. I wouldn't sweat the pad type for anything but on-track driving, more than Solo1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

there have actually been 2 stolen in my own town, both PY ITR's. none have been stolen in my town, though....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha that makes no sense

 

oh yea i run ATE superblue in my itr it works great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the Cobalt Friction GT Sport pads, if you can get them. But they're not the cheapest pads around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree they are a god pad. I am also fond of the KVR carbon-ferro pad for street applications, but they do dust quite a bit.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, no. Stainless lines are supposed to prevent a spongey feel to the brake pedal if the rubber brake lines swell. Do you have a spongey brake pedal? I don't. I have my original rubber brake lines in my ITR with &gt;5K actual track miles and my NSX with &gt;10K actual track miles. No sponge, no need.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree that stainless lines are not needed. I had them, and I found it to be a waste. Infact, I found them to be a worry since they were not silcone coated. Debris getting trapped in between the braids and causing a failure in the line was a concern for me. I would not use them in the future unless I found it to be needed on a particular application (which is doubtful for me).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Either one. I like the Motul and don't mind spending the few extra bucks for the added boilover protection. But if you're not tracking your car, the ATE will be more than adequate, I'm sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

While Motul has a higher boiling point, the ATE super blue should be more than sufficient for HPDE's. I dont know many people who boiled ATE super blue at an HPDE. I do prefer Motul though.

Boiling break fluid is not fun. The only time I experienced it was when one of my 4-piston calipers failed (the pistons siezed, and they were recently rebuilt by the manufacturer), so the pad was in constant contact with the rotor. The fluid boiled, lost all hydrolic braking, the caliper was destroyed, the paint on my WHEEL burned off (high-temp engine enamel), etc.. I took a picture while my wheel was smoldering (created a nice smoke cloud) and lit my cig off the kosei k1's. Ahh.. memories.

 

oeM?

 

if you have a napa around go there and get the "safety stop" pads....... i used them a few times and they were great for the money stopped a lil better than oem....... they are just a cheap ceramic pad i think they were in the $20-30 range

or if you want to go a lil higher they have a pad called "ceramix" that is top of the line at about $50....... but the napa guy told me the saftey stops were the same pad, just different marketing, with a lower price

BUT if you are willing to spend a lil more money i just switched over to the cobalt gt-sports and holy hell they are a night and day over the napa's!! these things are great pads!!

 

i used oem's, they were pretty good,

a local auto parts had some NISSIN pads, kinda like stock but they were a lot better, but dusted like a ****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0554 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha that makes no sense </TD></TR></TABLE>

what i MEANT to say.....is that 2 ITR owners from my town had their car's stolen. both PY, and strangly enough they're also cousins...but jarrets was stolen in concord mills parking lot, and wes's in circuit city's about a year apart

 

how much are the cobalt gt deals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mythias &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...Boiling break fluid is not fun.... Ahh.. memories.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only reason I'm still here is to read stories told by Brad.

To the OP... I have nothing to add. Well as soon as my current pads wear off I'll let you know my overall opinion of them. (3-6 months).

 

Hawk HP+ might be ok for you. They're not crazy expensive, and are just fine for the street. Carbotech Panther Plus would also be acceptable. Both of those can be had from http://www.carbotecheng.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hawk HP+ might be ok for you. They're not crazy expensive, and are just fine for the street. Carbotech Panther Plus would also be acceptable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hawk HP Plus is a good backup if you have trouble getting the GT Sports. I tried the Panther Plus and hated them on the street because they squealed. LOUD!